I currently have a HEI on a 350 in a 70 SS. I have a Unilite to replace it. I also have a Jacobs Milagemaster ignition system to install. My question is, does the Mallory distributor need the ballast with the Jacobs system, and will the wiring to the HEI switch over to the Jacob's coil and Unilite Distributor. I'm pretty sure the previous owner used the stock point distributor's wires to do the switch.

 

Ok this was like 12 years ago, but I remember using a ballast with my Unilite on my 68 RS. I converted form the stock points distrib. straight to the Unilite though. I used an Accel Super Coil with mine, that was it though.

 

i am useing a ballist with my unilite,but i dont remember reading that i need to. i think the guy at the speed shop must have told me i need it. does anyone know for shure?

 

Cars of that vintage that originally came with a a points-type distributor typically had 2 wires that would feed the coil.

1. A full 12V wire that would supply current from one of the posts on the starter solenoid directly to the coil ONLY WHILE CRANKING THE ENGINE OVER ON THE STARTER.

2. A "resistor" wire that would supply about 9-10 volts to the coil when the engine was running normally in the "run" position on the key so as to keep from quicky frying the points to a crisp under normal running conditions. Typically this wire would be a pink wire with braided-looking insulation with the word "resistor" printed along it over and over along it's length and would go to a different post on the starter solenoid.

You would typically see 2 wires running to a common connection on the + side of the coil- that's where these 2 wires came together- right at the coil.

IF IF IF.... your wiring is still stock and you still have this "dual wire" setup then there should be no need for a ballast resistor- the stock resistor wire does it's job. However, ANYTHING is possible in a car this old with modified wiring, etc. Double check, even if you have to trace the power wire all the way down the wiring harness to the starter (or wherever they tapped power off of when they dropped in the HEI).

HEI ignitions that are truly tapped into the stock resistor wire will run like crap in the upper RPMs. HEI's are a totally different beast than points ignitions- they require a full 12V (or more) under ALL conditions to run well (starting AND running).

 

I am using a Unilite and have been for the past 11yrs.
Yes you do need to run the ballest resitor. Or you run the
risk of the modual toasting. and a replacement is about half
the cost of the whole distributor. Mallory will tell you that it
NEEDS TO BE USED. Hope that takes care of you question.
Good luck.

Oh yea if the used one that you put in does not work the,
you will think that you have it wired wrong. but the modual
is already toast. latter.

 

The thing is, I won't have a stocker coil. I'll be running a Jacobs ignition system with the unilite. It is all used stuff, so no wiring diagrams. I'll try giving Jacobs and Mallory a call.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

If ya want i can e-mail you the Mallory Unilite instucions.
let me know.

Steve