Okay, before you go saying "this ain't advanced" it IS advanced for a second-gen car, and I figure there is alot more experience with O2 sensors here than in the Classic Tech forum...

Anyways, I'm putting an A/F ratio gauge on my '77 to help tune the carb. Of course, the car will have the standard long-tube cheapo headers, and I've heard that the exhaust cools enough before it reaches the collectors on these that an O2 sensor won't reach the proper temperature to be accurate.
Now, keep in mind, the reading from the sensor doesn't have to be spot-on, just pretty close - the gauge just has about 10 bars from 'rich' to 'lean', and the carb isn't as accurate as EFI.
So, will a standard O2 sensor suffice, or does it need to be a heated?

Also, I called the NAPA guy to get a price for a heated O2 sensor, and he insisted that he needed a specific part number "because I'm sure they're all different". I'm sure there might be some differences, but isn't the signal from one O2 the same as from another, and the gauge won't know the difference?

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1977 camaro with a 350 shortblock in it. the rest is sitting in my living room or in the trunk
Yeah, it'll be running... soon... uh, please donate money!

 

BluEyes,
I am not sure why you think this isnt a advanced question for other years but is advanced for a 2nd gen. When you break it down this really isnt an advanced question.

All I ask of people is to post their question in the PROPER forum first and try there before making a post in Adv Tech. And I dont mean post it there and if you get no responses in 2 hours its ok to post here

We have multiple forums for a reason, dont sell them short there are knowledgable people in all of them.

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Ken Mook - 97' SS #2544
Advanced Tech Posting Guidelines

• ?rwhp & ?rwtq Naturally Aspirated on the Stock Bottom End.
• Stage 3 Pro Performance Heads, Solid Roller 242/248 Cam, Endur-X Lifters,
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I don't think the length of the collector would cool the exhaust enough to keep the sensor from working properly. On the late model Camaro's, there is one sensor at the manifold, then another behind the cat converter which is further down that you're collector would be. Once the cats were removed on my car the o-sensors tracked the same on the scanner. So they read very close to the same reading. The heater in the o-sensor in the late model cars is only on for a few seconds at startup to get the o-sensors going faster for emissions reasons. If you kept the heater on constantly it might damage the sensor.

I would say use a regular, non-heated o-sensor, and just give it a few minutes to warm up before you start tuning.

-Dave C. '97 Z28

PS: Yes, the sensor signals should be the same on most cars.

[This message has been edited by Dave C. '97 Z28 (edited July 19, 2002).]

 

Dave - it's not the length of the collector, but the length of the tubes in general. The headers would put ~3 feet of tubing between the engine and the sensor. But you say the sensor behind the cats read the same with no cats? Interesting - I've heard that the O2 sensor needs to be 600F to read properly?

What about which brand of sensor? The summit gauge says it will work with factory 2, and 3 wire sensors. So, just pick one that's affordable?

[This message has been edited by BluEyes (edited July 19, 2002).]

 

i ran a heated O2 sensor in my long tubes to tune my carb. first tried it after i had one in my supercharged stang ('90) and it saved my *** a few times. figured its worth a try with my 69Z. works great for me. i got the O2 sensor a few inches in front of the collector and works fine. it has really helped me with the tune. go for it. easy nice investment.. plus the autometer gauge display is pretty cool looking even to those who have no idea what the hell all the colors flashing mean anyway. :-)

later,

mike


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