Classic Engine Tech 1967 - 1981 Engine Related

Lakewood uni traction bars

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Old Jul 27, 2003 | 11:27 PM
  #1  
talos's Avatar
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Lakewood uni traction bars

Does anyone have them???

i have them installed but does the rubber **** at the end touch the body, mines sitting about 2" or 3" or so from the body/front of the leafspring... how do i get it up more if thats how it is to setup
Old Jul 28, 2003 | 02:04 AM
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Re: Lakewood uni traction bars

Originally posted by talos
how do i get it up more if thats how it is to setup
Cut the traction bar and box it with new material.
Old Jul 28, 2003 | 02:32 AM
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Old Jul 28, 2003 | 03:50 AM
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Originally posted by talos
That's why uni bars aren't cool unless you plan on doing it.
Old Jul 28, 2003 | 04:31 AM
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i don't even know what ur first post meant let alone ur second post
Old Jul 28, 2003 | 12:05 PM
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if i am thinking of the correct bars, you are referring to the $30(ish) dollar traction bars?

i believe they sell a shim kit so to speak, or a wedge kit that will pivot the front of the bars upward. you want it to be about .25-.5" of air gap in the snubber, i know Energy suspensions makes some great poly snubbers in different hieghts, try them out too.

this is for the slapper type of bars as they are commonly called
Old Jul 28, 2003 | 07:22 PM
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Originally posted by talos
i don't even know what ur first post meant let alone ur second post
If you want to make the bars longer, you have to cut them, then weld in new sections of metal. Alternatively, you could find a piece of square/rectangular tubing that fits in the center after you cut it, then bolt it together.

The way it's set up right now you will start to bend the spring into an S-shape with enough hard launches.

Sorry that I wasn't clear enough in the first and second posts.
Old Jul 28, 2003 | 08:30 PM
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Arrow

We've got a pair of them installed on my dad's '73 Camaro, and instead of using both U-bolts to bolt each bar on, we bolted the rear most bracket of the trac bar to the rear most set of bolts on the plate that holds the axle in place (and that each of the shocks bolts to). To do this, we had to slot the rear holes on the trac bars (just need a hack saw for that), but it positioned the snubbers 1/4" down from the front of the springs, and it seems very solid. While the tires may still spin, we don't get any wheel hop with the car (and that's the whole purpose of trac bars.......to eliminate wheel hop).

Hope that helps!
Old Jul 29, 2003 | 10:36 AM
  #9  
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It's a little surprising how often you see these set up wrong, with too big of a gap. I know that the pair on my car are not right, but since it's sitting up on stands for a couple years now, I figure I got bigger things to worry about than setting these up right just yet.

I remember thinking when I bolted these cheap things on, that they weren't going to reach the way that they sat. Getting them up tight where they are supposed to be will help keep them from catching curbs, speed bumps, etc. as well. The set I have had obviously seen a very hard existence before I got 'em. (at least I got them for just pocket change, hahahaha). The leading edge is all bent up and stuff.
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