how do you build a vette/porsche eater?
i'd love to be able to eat up a new C-5/Z06 and a new carrera/turbo...although for now, i only have '72, 350HO/380HP, vortecs, 268xe, holley 600 v/c RPM, unilite, flowtechs, TH350, 3.42 posi, 1 1/4'fr, 1'rr sway bars, ssm sub conns on centerlines-15x8.5 (265/50) rr, 14x7 (235x60) fr...100HP nitrous & o/d coming soon!
suggestions on improving this combo to create a vette/porsche eater is welcomed.
thanks!
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'72 camaro, 350HO/380HP, vortecs, 268xe, holley 600 v/c, RPM, unilite, flowtechs, TH350, 3.42's posi...100HP nitrous & o/d coming up!!
suggestions on improving this combo to create a vette/porsche eater is welcomed.
thanks!
------------------
'72 camaro, 350HO/380HP, vortecs, 268xe, holley 600 v/c, RPM, unilite, flowtechs, TH350, 3.42's posi...100HP nitrous & o/d coming up!!
Sounds like you are headed the same direction as I am, I have a 70 Z I am gathering pieces for...
If you haven't added poly bushings yet, that would be a good next step, as well as some 16 or 17" rims with some sticky tires. I am using Edelbrock IAS shocks, 17x8 centerlines with 275/40 Bridgestones.. had the same setup under an 86 Monte SS, and it handled like it was on rails.
You might want to upgrade to a OD trans, it will help both your acceleration and top end, mine is going to have a 6 speed
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Texlurch - 68 Camaro (Just a little ol' LT1 with a Hot Cam, I SWEAR
" a little spray never hurt anyone, spank you very much!"
or the old standby:"I came here to race, not sell real estate. You ain't scared, is ya?"
If you haven't added poly bushings yet, that would be a good next step, as well as some 16 or 17" rims with some sticky tires. I am using Edelbrock IAS shocks, 17x8 centerlines with 275/40 Bridgestones.. had the same setup under an 86 Monte SS, and it handled like it was on rails.
You might want to upgrade to a OD trans, it will help both your acceleration and top end, mine is going to have a 6 speed
------------------
Texlurch - 68 Camaro (Just a little ol' LT1 with a Hot Cam, I SWEAR

" a little spray never hurt anyone, spank you very much!"
or the old standby:"I came here to race, not sell real estate. You ain't scared, is ya?"
Blower - either roots or centrifugal - will be able to give you the power you need.
I'd shoot for 450hp at the wheels for power.
For the suspension, I'm sure Lowend has some great ideas that'll have you out-cornering 'vettes and Porsches. Probably something with new bushings all around, front/rear swaybars, new springs, new shocks, and some quality rubber.
I'd shoot for 450hp at the wheels for power.
For the suspension, I'm sure Lowend has some great ideas that'll have you out-cornering 'vettes and Porsches. Probably something with new bushings all around, front/rear swaybars, new springs, new shocks, and some quality rubber.
lowend,
its def not needed as a dailey driver...although i would like it to come close to having such drivability.
as for the budget...not to say that sky's the limit...but, i've had mine since it was new(dad & older bro 1st owners)...so, i'm gonna do whatever sounds good & reasonable cause i've already went through the whole car (drivetrain) twice and the int & ext are in great shape!
blu eyes,
i'm not into installing a blower at this time...i'd like to make it awsome n/a....then have it damn awsome on some juice!
forgot to add that it has koni springs up front, hellwig sways and kyb shocks....i know the rim/tire combo can use a change...but i like that "old school" centerline autodrag look....
thanks
its def not needed as a dailey driver...although i would like it to come close to having such drivability.
as for the budget...not to say that sky's the limit...but, i've had mine since it was new(dad & older bro 1st owners)...so, i'm gonna do whatever sounds good & reasonable cause i've already went through the whole car (drivetrain) twice and the int & ext are in great shape!
blu eyes,
i'm not into installing a blower at this time...i'd like to make it awsome n/a....then have it damn awsome on some juice!
forgot to add that it has koni springs up front, hellwig sways and kyb shocks....i know the rim/tire combo can use a change...but i like that "old school" centerline autodrag look....
thanks
n/a? go for cubes then. It might be possible with a 350, but considering our 2nd gen cars are pretty heavy, a 383 or larger would be much easier.
Try: AFR heads, solid roller cam, single plane intake. It would be even better with some form of aftermarket EFI, but those can get seriously pricey.
Also, get as many fiberglass parts as you can. Hood, fenders, inner fenders, trunklid, etc. If you want to put some work into it, try replacing the door skins with 'glass.
But, leave that huge cross-beam there unless you have a roll-cage that covers you from the side - you are driving on the street after all...
Aluminum heads, intake, waterpump, radiator would help also. If you really have an unlimited budget, then GM does make an Aluminum SBC block. That'll save you 90# off the nose right there!!! It'll also set you back over $4K for the block alone! Isn't it every 100# saved = .1 sec?
If you get an aftermarket block, get a 4.125" bore block - no sense losing any cubes. A 427 (4.125"x4") would waste a vette/porsche for sure, assuming you can hook it up.
Now, on the topic of hooking up all that power... I'm assuming you want to keep up with these cars around corners, too? That's going to mean low-profile rubber, stiff springs, etc which will make it harder to hook up your dragstrip launches. To solve that, I'd build the motor to make mor power up high. I know this is an unpopular thing thesedays, but think about this.
With a 383+ cube motor, you'll still have more than enough power to get around town, but if the real power is up top, then you won't be roasting the tires off the line. The power will come on after you've already gotten moving a bit and then you can hook it up much better.
Try: AFR heads, solid roller cam, single plane intake. It would be even better with some form of aftermarket EFI, but those can get seriously pricey.
Also, get as many fiberglass parts as you can. Hood, fenders, inner fenders, trunklid, etc. If you want to put some work into it, try replacing the door skins with 'glass.
But, leave that huge cross-beam there unless you have a roll-cage that covers you from the side - you are driving on the street after all...
Aluminum heads, intake, waterpump, radiator would help also. If you really have an unlimited budget, then GM does make an Aluminum SBC block. That'll save you 90# off the nose right there!!! It'll also set you back over $4K for the block alone! Isn't it every 100# saved = .1 sec?
If you get an aftermarket block, get a 4.125" bore block - no sense losing any cubes. A 427 (4.125"x4") would waste a vette/porsche for sure, assuming you can hook it up.
Now, on the topic of hooking up all that power... I'm assuming you want to keep up with these cars around corners, too? That's going to mean low-profile rubber, stiff springs, etc which will make it harder to hook up your dragstrip launches. To solve that, I'd build the motor to make mor power up high. I know this is an unpopular thing thesedays, but think about this.
With a 383+ cube motor, you'll still have more than enough power to get around town, but if the real power is up top, then you won't be roasting the tires off the line. The power will come on after you've already gotten moving a bit and then you can hook it up much better.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BluEyes:
n/a? go for cubes then. It might be possible with a 350, but considering our 2nd gen cars are pretty heavy, a 383 or larger would be much easier.
Try: AFR heads, solid roller cam, single plane intake. It would be even better with some form of aftermarket EFI, but those can get seriously pricey.
i would but my 350HO only has 6000miles on it...so, i'll make due with it for now...prob will spray a 100HP shot soon.
Also, get as many fiberglass parts as you can. Hood, fenders, inner fenders, trunklid, etc. If you want to put some work into it, try replacing the door skins with 'glass.
But, leave that huge cross-beam there unless you have a roll-cage that covers you from the side - you are driving on the street after all...
i do have a plastic hood w/cowl...
Aluminum heads, intake, waterpump, radiator would help also. If you really have an unlimited budget, then GM does make an Aluminum SBC block. That'll save you 90# off the nose right there!!! It'll also set you back over $4K for the block alone! Isn't it every 100# saved = .1 sec?
If you get an aftermarket block, get a 4.125" bore block - no sense losing any cubes.
if i go this route...i'll def be using alot of nitrous first...or at this point consider a blower.
A 427 (4.125"x4") would waste a vette/porsche for sure, assuming you can hook it up.
Now, on the topic of hooking up all that power... I'm assuming you want to keep up with these cars around corners, too? That's going to mean low-profile rubber, stiff springs, etc which will make it harder to hook up your dragstrip launches. To solve that, I'd build the motor to make mor power up high. I know this is an unpopular thing thesedays, but think about this.
With a 383+ cube motor, you'll still have more than enough power to get around town, but if the real power is up top, then you won't be roasting the tires off the line. The power will come on after you've already gotten moving a bit and then you can hook it up much better. </font>
n/a? go for cubes then. It might be possible with a 350, but considering our 2nd gen cars are pretty heavy, a 383 or larger would be much easier.
Try: AFR heads, solid roller cam, single plane intake. It would be even better with some form of aftermarket EFI, but those can get seriously pricey.
i would but my 350HO only has 6000miles on it...so, i'll make due with it for now...prob will spray a 100HP shot soon.
Also, get as many fiberglass parts as you can. Hood, fenders, inner fenders, trunklid, etc. If you want to put some work into it, try replacing the door skins with 'glass.
But, leave that huge cross-beam there unless you have a roll-cage that covers you from the side - you are driving on the street after all...
i do have a plastic hood w/cowl...
Aluminum heads, intake, waterpump, radiator would help also. If you really have an unlimited budget, then GM does make an Aluminum SBC block. That'll save you 90# off the nose right there!!! It'll also set you back over $4K for the block alone! Isn't it every 100# saved = .1 sec?
If you get an aftermarket block, get a 4.125" bore block - no sense losing any cubes.
if i go this route...i'll def be using alot of nitrous first...or at this point consider a blower.
A 427 (4.125"x4") would waste a vette/porsche for sure, assuming you can hook it up.
Now, on the topic of hooking up all that power... I'm assuming you want to keep up with these cars around corners, too? That's going to mean low-profile rubber, stiff springs, etc which will make it harder to hook up your dragstrip launches. To solve that, I'd build the motor to make mor power up high. I know this is an unpopular thing thesedays, but think about this.
With a 383+ cube motor, you'll still have more than enough power to get around town, but if the real power is up top, then you won't be roasting the tires off the line. The power will come on after you've already gotten moving a bit and then you can hook it up much better. </font>
thanks for your input!
Jeez guys, gettin all carried away.
I think the biggest improvement you could make right now is rims/tires. Sorry, but them fat sidewalls are never gonna handle worth a crap.
------------------
-Joe
79' Z28 4-spd
http://joesmith59.freeservers.com/
*Boycott Lapeer*
I think the biggest improvement you could make right now is rims/tires. Sorry, but them fat sidewalls are never gonna handle worth a crap.
------------------
-Joe
79' Z28 4-spd
http://joesmith59.freeservers.com/
*Boycott Lapeer*
yeah, huh....joe69.
you're prob right as far as rim/tire combo being a better way to start....then the 100HP shot, supension's not too bad but can use some tuning for improvements....
you're prob right as far as rim/tire combo being a better way to start....then the 100HP shot, supension's not too bad but can use some tuning for improvements....
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