When I first bought my 70 T/A, it had severe wheelhop when launching and shifting hard through each gear

I replaced all of the worn bushings, links and shocks, but that didn't help much at all

Then I bought a pair of Traction Bars and the Hop was gone

Thing is, although they work great, they look like dog$h!t

They hang low enough to catch on speed bumps and I'm always affraid to drive on rough roads for fear of catching a manhole cover or sumthin

Are there any traction bars that don't hang low and aren't visible to anyone unless you get down on your knees





Rick


Aztek T/A WS7 & 70 RAM AIR IV T/A
Moderator @ LS1, FAST LS1, FUEL ****,
The F-Body Hideout & ChopperForums

 

slide-a-link

 

I've heard of guys clamping an extra half leaf to the front portion of each leaf spring as a stealthy way to prevent spring wind up. But I've always gone with traction bars for the tuneability.

 

Hmm, Slide-A-Link looks like the way to go


But $400!!


Time to hit up Ebay


As for extra leafs, I actually tried this before and the results weren't as good as the traction bars, but then again, the partial leafs I used were pretty weak.....






Rick

 

Rick, I'm 4 linking the 67, make an offer on my slide a link bars if you're interested. They dont tuck in much higher than traction bars, but look way cooler.

 

Hey Chris


Do you have any pix showing how they look on your 67?

I was just thinking I could make a my own out of the existing Lakewood Traction Bars by cutting them short and adding an adjustible rod connected to front pivot plates made out of scrap steel

Anyhoo, the Resto on the 70 won't start till next week, so I should know what my options are by then....






Rick

 

That might not work if the rear part of the traction bar you have is fixed to the differential, it will bind under travel.

I'll see if I have any pics handy. It looks like the lower part of a 4 link hanging down.

 

I was thinking something along the lines of this

My current Traction Bars are bolted directly to the rear (unlike the universal ones that just bolt up to the leafs), so I was thinking about hacking the front section of the bars, leaving the bracket base in place, then drill a hole to bolt up a large threaded rod connected to the front with 4 pivot plates (like the ones on that page)


I know it looks a little ghetto, but I might just give it a shot





Rick

 

Thats a copy of a "cal-trac" traction bar. They work VERY well. Will take you deep into the 10s without any issues. Think they go for $350usd or so. If you do build those, build them strong.
[edit] Guess I should have read the page instead of just looking at the pics . Anyhow, I would use 1/4" plate for the mount rather than 3/16" to reduce flex/bending.
CoryM

 

I'm no traction expert, but if you put a rod end on the front and connect it to the body like the diagram shows, the bar will want to twist your rearend up and down with the motion of the body. That is if you're trying to keep the back half of the traction bar where it is bolted to the rear. You would need a rod end on the rear too to keep this from happening.

BTW- I think it's you I pass every day going westbound on 50 out by the track about lunchtime. I've been going to Melbourne after school a lot and it looks like your car.

 

Hehe

Yeah, it's probably me since I'm about a mile from the track with the only Aztek T/A in town

BTW, did Charlie talk to you about possibly making a full length blackout for the T/A's tail lights?




Rick

 

You could pony up for a set of fiberglass leafs from Vette Brakes. They don't wind up at all. I'm running the 200# castings, with a 184# actual rate. My old set (circa 1994) were the 150# castings, in a 166# rate. Basically, the 200# castings are de-arched a bit to prevent ride height from being too high. When you get them with actual rate below spec, the car will sit lower than stock. See my web page.

Just make sure they are installed correctly (and, more importantly, don't loosen up over time), otherwise you'll break them. Ask me how I know.

 

I'd like to suggest the springs.

Landrums are some good ones if you wanna drag race (lil cheaper than the V.B glass ones, but are a heavier rate).

Up to you....

 

No, Charlie never mentioned it. Made form what? plexi? Lexan?

 

Hmm

Whichever one one looks better I guess

I just want it to be one piece, covering both tail lights and the center filler panel....

Kinda like this <----bad pic


What you think?




Rick