Ok I have a 77 z28 with a 350, T5, and 3.73 open diff. A while ago when I started to let off the clutch it would slightly shake the bodyand drivetrain. Over a few months it got REALLY bad to where if I used 1st gear the shake would be so bad that I used 2nd to take off. If I slowly drain the clutch it is ok in 1st, but other than that I have the worst take off .So far I have replaced the engine mounts, clutch, machined the flywheel, changed the u-joints, and replaced the leafsprings. NOTHING has helped and I'm out of ideas of what it could be.
Oh also I recently upgraded from my super T 10 to a T5 and there was no difference.

PLEASE HELP

 

did you replace the pilot bushing when you did the clutch?

 

No I did not replace it because it had a 3 month old one in it with absolutly no wear on it (I replaced the clutch cause the belville springs were toast after my diff froze up ). could it be caused by axle wrap?? the car starts to shake after I let off of the clutch about half way.

 

check for sticking brakes. sounds stupid but it will drive you nuts. also check the subframe bushings. they are kbnown for getting mushy and causing a horrible vib letting out on the clutch

 

My E-brake drags a little and my body mounts are SHOT. Could it really be that easy?? I hope so cause mounts are only 50 bucks and the E-brake will be easy.

 

rear seal leaking oil on the clutch assambly? how did the flywheel look when removed ?was it heat checked or discolored

 

The flywheel had just been turned three months before I put the clutch. I would have had it turned again just in case but the last time it was turned I was told it couldn't be done again because I was nearing the minimum thickness. Also my rear main seams fine, the problem didn't change when I replaced clutchs it was exactly the same as soon as I started to drive (no time for oil to reach clutch even if the seal was bad). Any other ideas? I'm going to fix the E-brake and body mounts and see what happens, I'll let you guys know. Thanks for all the advice.

 

keep us posted on what fixes it

 

For al you guys following I'm going to add ladder bars, fix the body mounts, adjust the E-brake, and, if that does nothing, I'll replace the clutch. Let me know if you can think of anything else you think shoud be replaced.

 

what ladder bars? if it has the springs still use a floating setup. i prefer the slide a link kit. it works awsome. a good set of subframe connectors help

 

If your body mounts are junk, that could be the problem. The whole sub could be moving enough to bind the Z-bar linkage and make it chatter.

But then again, I'm not sure how the clutch linkage works on a 77. I'm a 1st Gen guy. Anyways, just a thought.

 

The linkage is all mecanical. There is a pivot bar that pivots on two pionts, one on the block and one on the frame. When you depress the clutch pedel the shaft pivots and a bar pushes on the clutch fork thus disengaging the clutch. I'll replace the body mounts asap and let you guys know. Thanks for all the info.

 

fyi. do not get the aluminum ones. they ride like crap and are noisy,

 

i agree body mounts can cause issues, also check your motor, if it's running off balance (i.e. dead cylinder from a plug wire that popped off) and you load it, that'll shake ya up
and another thing, your tranny mount hasn't been replaced? if it's a stock one those suckers can tear and then the driveshaft bangs on the tunnel when you give it gas... just some thoughts

 

I don't see any mention of how you aligned the clutch to the crank.
Did you use a clutch alignment tool?