A buddy recently went from a turbo 350 to a new Super T-10, new Hurst shifter, new blowproof, new flywheel, new Ram Borg&Beck clutch setup.

Transmission is REALLY STIFF! Forget speed shifting, transmission is really "notchy"... As if the interlocks won't allow smooth "butter smooth" shifting... Hurst shifter is adjusted perfectly, that's not the problem.
Is this a charicteristic of the newer Super T-10's? If so, what do we do to get the thing shifting smooth???

Another unrelated(?) problem, when the clutch is set for the 1" free travel at the top of the pedal, the clutch will not fully disengage when the pedal is fully depressed.

When the clutch is adjusted to release cleanly and you can "find em' instead of grind em" the throwout bearing is aganst the pressure plate fingers.... NO free pedal play..
Mismatch of parts????

Any and all responses appreciated!

 

The throwout bearing has a spring on it. The TO bearing flange should not be clipped under the spring. The spring is there to kick the TO bearing back when clutch is disengaged. I like to use a feeler gage for setting the clutch adjustment. e.g., adjusted so a .030" feeler can slide in between the clutch plate and the flywheel with a stock type GM pressure plate. Borg & Beck or Long type use different spec.

If the TO bearing isn't clipped and you can't get the proper adjustment, you may be right about mismatch. Very common to get the wrong TO bearing for the pressure plate, especially if non stock parts are used.

If the clutch isn't disengaging cleanly, it can make for stiff shifting, even if you don't hear grinding on the shift.

 

How do you check this clearance inside the bellhousing?

 

Also check that you have the right cluch fork and that the fork pivot ball is at the right highth.
We used to drill an inspection hole in the bell housing.