350 bored .060 is..?
350 bored .060 is..?
just what the topic reads, what ci is a 350 bored out .060?
sorry if this a newb question, but i've never really gotten into boring and stroking, etc.
the question pertains to an 81 z28 that i'm considering buying (between that and a 95 z28) and it's got a bunch of engine upgrades (edelbrock rpm performer package or something?) and a beefed up rear end, along with a 2800 stall on the auto
i'm just wondering what that equates to in ci just because i'm curious like that
thanks for the help in advance
sorry if this a newb question, but i've never really gotten into boring and stroking, etc.
the question pertains to an 81 z28 that i'm considering buying (between that and a 95 z28) and it's got a bunch of engine upgrades (edelbrock rpm performer package or something?) and a beefed up rear end, along with a 2800 stall on the auto
i'm just wondering what that equates to in ci just because i'm curious like that
thanks for the help in advance
Bore Size:
STD (4.00") = 349.85 cu. in. (with a STD 3.48" stroke)
+ .010" = 351.60
+ .020" = 353.35
+ .030" = 355.12
+ .040" = 356.88
+ .050" = 358.65
+ .060" = 360.42
So yeah, kmanRS/SS, you were right
.
STD (4.00") = 349.85 cu. in. (with a STD 3.48" stroke)
+ .010" = 351.60
+ .020" = 353.35
+ .030" = 355.12
+ .040" = 356.88
+ .050" = 358.65
+ .060" = 360.42
So yeah, kmanRS/SS, you were right
.
Originally posted by DarthIROC
a 350 bored .060 over is........probably not gonna last very long
a 350 bored .060 over is........probably not gonna last very long
he said it was running great and everything
and i assume if it does take a dump, then i can't do anything to save the block because it's bored out already right?
i sort of am leaning towards the 95 though because i think i might want to autox
but this 81 is so tempting
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,291
From: Teeter-tottering between Brilliance and Insanity
Ive seen some 350 blocks do fine at .060 over, but alot of them have overheating problems, and the block is more likely to crack. And like you said if something does happen you cant salvage the block.
Small blocks are cheap, if you want the 81 get it. You can buy a new block, and build it up a little at a time, while your putting the last miles on the .060 over block. THen when your ready, just swap over the top end onto the new block and drop it in. Hell I have a nice 400 block, that would make an awesome 406 build I'll sell ya now for $175
Or you can get teh 85, and have the advantage of fuel injection up front. But you see alot of people driving nice 4th gens everyday. How many beautiful 2nd gens do you see?
Small blocks are cheap, if you want the 81 get it. You can buy a new block, and build it up a little at a time, while your putting the last miles on the .060 over block. THen when your ready, just swap over the top end onto the new block and drop it in. Hell I have a nice 400 block, that would make an awesome 406 build I'll sell ya now for $175
Or you can get teh 85, and have the advantage of fuel injection up front. But you see alot of people driving nice 4th gens everyday. How many beautiful 2nd gens do you see?
Alright, this is your math lesson for today....
Displacement is calculated from the volume of the cylinders.
The volume of a cylinder is determined by the cross-sectional area (a circle) times the stroke.
The area of a circle is defined as PI*Radius^2 (that's squared), where PI is approximately 3.1416.
To simplify, the volume is 3.1416*STROKE*BORE*BORE/4 for each cylinder.
Therefore...
350 std bore... 8*3.1416*3.48*4*4/4 = 349.84
350 .030 over ... 8*3.1416*3.48*4.030*4.030/4 = 355.11
350 .060 over ... 8*3.1416*3.48*4.060*4.060/4 = 360.42
With that formula you can calculate any displacement given the bore, stroke and # cylinders.
See, you can use trig everyday.
That has been today's math lesson.
Displacement is calculated from the volume of the cylinders.
The volume of a cylinder is determined by the cross-sectional area (a circle) times the stroke.
The area of a circle is defined as PI*Radius^2 (that's squared), where PI is approximately 3.1416.
To simplify, the volume is 3.1416*STROKE*BORE*BORE/4 for each cylinder.
Therefore...
350 std bore... 8*3.1416*3.48*4*4/4 = 349.84
350 .030 over ... 8*3.1416*3.48*4.030*4.030/4 = 355.11
350 .060 over ... 8*3.1416*3.48*4.060*4.060/4 = 360.42
With that formula you can calculate any displacement given the bore, stroke and # cylinders.
See, you can use trig everyday.
That has been today's math lesson.
hey thanks jg!
that'll be really helpful
yea, i'm sort of undecided right now on which car
i mean, the 81 will kick *** (especially with all its mods) and beat everybody at my school, but then again, the 95 has got all the creature comforts (p/w p/l t-tops, rare flame interior) and i think i might want to start autocrossing- the 95 would be a perfect fit for that
what do you guys think?
that'll be really helpful
yea, i'm sort of undecided right now on which car
i mean, the 81 will kick *** (especially with all its mods) and beat everybody at my school, but then again, the 95 has got all the creature comforts (p/w p/l t-tops, rare flame interior) and i think i might want to start autocrossing- the 95 would be a perfect fit for that
what do you guys think?
Truthfully??? I think you'd probably be 10 X happier with the '95 Z28 with the LT1 350 than you would with an '81 Z28. Obviously it depends on what type of budget you're on as well, but from my own experience with both an '81 Z28, and my current '02 Z28, the newer fuel injected cars are much better "all round" cars than 2nd-gens or older.
Advantages of '81 Z28:
- likely no smog requirements?
- tons of cheap aftermarket parts
- "classic" (or almost classic) car
- can probably be bought and made fast cheaper than '95 Z28
Advantages of '95 Z28:
- more efficient than carbureted = better performance for your dollar
- can make same power as old 350 SBC, but will be much better on fuel
- lots of aftermarket parts (but a little more expensive)
- made of new body materials that don't rust out like 81's do
- standard A/C, power locks, t-tops that don't leak, unlike 81's
..................just to name a few points
.
Advantages of '81 Z28:
- likely no smog requirements?
- tons of cheap aftermarket parts
- "classic" (or almost classic) car
- can probably be bought and made fast cheaper than '95 Z28
Advantages of '95 Z28:
- more efficient than carbureted = better performance for your dollar
- can make same power as old 350 SBC, but will be much better on fuel
- lots of aftermarket parts (but a little more expensive)
- made of new body materials that don't rust out like 81's do
- standard A/C, power locks, t-tops that don't leak, unlike 81's
..................just to name a few points
.
I'd check the insurance rates for each before deciding. I'm not sure what the current rates are, but one of the reasons I waited so long on buying a Z-28 was because the insurance costs were going to kill me. 
The '81 should be cheaper IMO, but ask your insurance agent how much cheaper. If they're relatively close, I'd go with the '95.

The '81 should be cheaper IMO, but ask your insurance agent how much cheaper. If they're relatively close, I'd go with the '95.
just a little calc page:
http://www.1bad69.com/calc.htm
scroll to the bottom and enter:
Bore
4.060
Stroke:
3.48
# Cyl
8
then hit
Calc Dis
you can play with it and see what you get by different bores and stroke combo's, as well as compression stuff...
http://www.1bad69.com/calc.htm
scroll to the bottom and enter:
Bore
4.060
Stroke:
3.48
# Cyl
8
then hit
Calc Dis
you can play with it and see what you get by different bores and stroke combo's, as well as compression stuff...
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