My original 1996 Camaro SS is finally up for sale. I no longer have the time to enjoy the car and drive it the way it should. This is a great car with no expense compromise to build a super strong but daily driven car. This car is built with a lot of help from LJ and is a little stronger than his car when he ran the 9.99 second. I have not taken this to the strip so don’t have any time except for the dyno.

This car has been well taken care of and has not been driven hard yet. The motor, rearend, and driveshaft is built to handle 1000hp so even at 611rwhp 608ftlb, I am not pushing the limit of the car. The idea was to overbuild everything so that it will provide good reliability.

This is a great street car (extremely mild and daily driven for two years straight!) and a great quarter mile and road race car.

Now it is available to a very lucky person!!





Engine:
Nu-tek 396 10K miles (fully forged, 9.2 compression ratio, JE pistons, Callies crank and 4 bolt main, high volume oil pump/shaft, and machined and assembled by Nu-tek), maxed Vortech S-Trim with aftercooler and mustang ice tank, 72 lb/hr Seimens Injectors, Acceleronics Impedance Box, Custom dyno tuning by LT1 Edit, AFPR, Walbro 340M FP, Modern Musclecar Voltblaster, AFR 190 Heads, Ferrea Valves 1.6”-ex 2.055”-int, Custom grind Comp cam (229:242-114), Gold Crane 1.5 Race Rocker Arms, Accel 1000cfm TB, NGK BPR8ES plugs at 0.035", MSD 8.5mm wires, new Optispark, Meziere heavy duty WP and 160'C Thermostat
Shortblock and head were put together by Nick at Nu-tek Racing who build racing motor for almost 20 years.


Driveline:
KTRE 12-bolt rearend 3.42 gears all set by Craig at www.topofthehillpc.com with Tom's Differentials Best of Everything Eaton posi with heat treated ring 'n pinion
3.5” high strength light weight steel driveshaft by South Bay Driveline (for 1000hp)
Stage 4 Spec Clutch with the X-pad. (Drive like stock and no spring to break)

Exhaust:
Jet Hot Hooker Long Tubes, Custom 3” off-road Y-pipe, Custom 4” exhaust into a Magnaflow

Suspension and Brakes:
Hal adjustable Shocks, Eibach Pro Kit Springs, Hotchkis panhard rod-trailer arms-sway bars, KB Double Diamond SFC, Baer Racing Track Kit with Porterfield R4S pads, ET Street, DGM Ground effect with WW air dam

Sound System:
2000 watts sound system with Panasonic DF88 deck, two 800A2 amps, Boston Pro Components (front), Infinity Kappa (rear), two 10 inch Solar Baric with custom built box, all done by professional who built competition sound systems.

Others:
One set of 1996 Silver ZR-1 17x9 rims with Victoracer Tires
One set of 2001 Chrome ZR-1 17x9.5 rims with bridgestone front and Nitto 555R rear
Corbeau A4 Racing seats
TurnOne racing Power Steering pump
A-Pillar with boost and fuel gauge
Autometer Shift light 5” tach on dash
Jim Moran’s PCM with LT1 Edit
Performance Friction PF1 racing pads
SLP Line Lock

Condition:
Paint, interior, exterior perfect. Garaged and No accident.

Pics - http://new.photos.yahoo.com/hughlam2...60762336215435

$16,500

All inquiries are welcome. Serious buyers only are welcome for test drive and you will be impressed! Located in East Bay Caifornia, Hayward Hills.

Thanks
--Hugh

hughlam03@yahoo.com
510-913-0284

 

how much boost are you running for that much horsepower? car looks superclean

 

Since it is a very strong motor with very good utilization of the boost due to the heads, cam, and headers, etc combination, I am only peaking at ~11.5 psi of boost on the dyno table which is the maximum that the Vortech S trim can push out.

The curent Vortech supercharger has new seals and bearings. If a T-trim is put in, I can push the power to a different higher level.

thanks
--Hugh

 

Does it get good gas mileage?

Good luck on the sale.

 

It's not bad at 18 mpg freeway and 14.5 mpg on the street.

thanks,
--Hugh

 

beautiful looking car, good luck with the sale bro

 

nice car.... good luck

 

Beautiful car, not a detail was spared, too bad you are selling it. Good luck with the sale.

 

Thanks guys!

--Hugh

 

Hahaha. LOL

Bad grammar here.

I meant except for the power data from the dyno pull no data from the time slip.

Cheers

--Hugh

 

Still for sale? consider a trade?

 

I have some interest and one very interested, but it is still for sale currently.

Not really interested in a trade if it is another car. If it is a business, property, real estate, diamonds, paintings, etc then I'm always interested

Let me know.

Cheers
--Hugh

 

Man I just totaled my 91 Camaro and i'm looking for a new one. But its going to be a while i'm getting ready to ship out to Korea =/ Grr I would ****** this up in a heart beat if I wasn't leaving. Good luck and ttt for ya.

 

TTT for a beautiful looking SS...

 

I bought this car on March 23 for $16,000. I picked it up from the shipping company about a week later. On April 28 after putting about 200 miles on it, and taking it out about 10 times, never to the track, two pistons broke. I've spent over 70 hours working on it since it came apart, and I'll have another probably 80 hours of work before I have it all back together. This in addition to about $1000 I'll be spending on a new set of pistons, antifreeze, wires, gaskets, etc. But worst of all, the damned aggravation from it all. I got a car that I thought was already all built up so that I wouldn't have to do two hundred hours of work building it up. I get this thing, and it has massive engine failure after driving it 10 times.
I regretted buying it before the failure though. After I found out that the supercharger is spitting oil into the engine, the heater core is broken, the car surges after WOT, the wheel bearings ($130 each) were shot, the tie rods were shot, the brakes were shot, it was the transmission I heard whining, not the rear end, and the pushrods were so underlength the nuts were scratching the rockers.
I've called the former owner several times Wednesday, yesterday, and today to have a talk now that I've found out what the problem was after working on it almost every day and weekend for the last three weeks, but his phone goes right to his message. Maybe he's busy, I don't know.
He was very good to deal with when I was buying the car. And maybe he didn't know the car was about to break. But he did know that the exterior wasn't "perfect", and that the clutch didn't "drive like stock" like he said in the ad. The exterior is not too good at all. The front ps fender is cracked from when the hood was slammed on it because that fender is so far off from where it should be, some kind of fluid spilled on about half the hood that penetrated in and won't come out even with rubbing compound, the ground effect pieces are barely holding on there (there's such a big gap that gravel gets trapped between them and the car) , and it has its share of scratches and rock chips. The clutch is on/off, almost nothing in between. I can live with that, okay; but it is really damn far from "drives like stock."
I put 30 hours probably into arranging a loan to buy it, getting shipping set up, getting a plane ticket out there to drive it, etc. After that, nobody is going to not get the car because of a sub-par exterior, or a stiff clutch. I got the car; but I did assume the engine was good.
He also knew that the supercharger spit oil, the heater core was broken, and that every oil supply line to the supercharger leaked like crazy.

Be careful if you fly across the country to buy a built car. I knew that I was really buying the car before I went out there to drive it, unless there was something seriously wrong with it. I asked what I could think of to ask before I left, but I should have asked more. Like what timing chain was in it. I assumed that someone with a supercharged 396 would put a decent one in. Nope. Now I'm putting in a double roller in addition to all the other work I'm doing and have already done on it.