wtb blown amps
wtb blown amps
Looking to buy blown amps. I will consider just about any quality name brand amp and possibly some cheap brands if the price is right. Let me know what you have. Also if anyone is looking for used amps I usually have some repaired and ready for sale. Prices depend on what model and what was required for repair. Most are around $100. I usually have such amps as Rockford, UsAmps, Phoenix Gold, and many more.
How much would you give for a Sony xm-1002hx?
The amp will turn on immediatly once you just hook up a power and ground. It will not play any sound, just turn on.
On the board, 1 mosfet is completly blown and sort of exploded. An adjacent one is blacked but not cracked. This could have been caused from the first one blowing but I'm not sure. The board its self is blacked around about a sq. inch in this same area but doesn't appear to be cracked. I haven't tooken it completly apart yet just the back cover off. If you want I can list the numbers of the parts on the board that is either cracked or blackened or take it apart further and see exactly what is damaged. This is the only area that appears to be damaged but I'm unsure since its not completly apart yet.
Also none of the built in protectors were blown and at the time I only had a 20 amp fuse in it (30 max is recommended) and that didn't blow either. It just stop playing and at first I thought it had just got too hot or something and shut off for a bit. But after a while I noticed it didn't turn back on so I went to inspect it. Amp was on so I assumed it must have not been getting any input so I rechecked all the connections and still couldn't figure out what was wrong so I shut off my deck. Then I noticed the amp was still on so I unhooked everything and brought it inside to check it out. Then I found this...
I pretty sure it blew because of the high voltage/current switch was flipped the wrong way when I had the amp playing. My set-up was running at load of 4 ohms and set to the high current (supposed to use in 2 or 1 ohm loads) when it should had been set to the high voltage (supposed to use for 2+ ohm loads). I can't believe I was that dumb and forgot to check that thing.
The amps specs can be found here
http://www.carsound.com/reviews/amps/xm1002hx.html
It retails for around $280.
http://www.elitecaraudio.com/reviews...ew&reviewid=42
I really wish I had seen this post earlier. I just gave away 3 other amps that had blown and I didn't really want to take the time and mess with.
I'll also might be able to get back my blown Kenwood KAC829. My duma$$ friend that supposed to be this "genius" on car audio blew it up by putting the positive on the ground and the ground on the positive and then connecting the remote the positive using no fuses (besides the stock one on the amp itself). I think the only thing wrong with it is where you usually connect the wires to is grounding out together and just needs to be replaced but I have yet to inspect it closely. That was the only thing I noticed in the few minutes I looked over it. It retails for over $300 new so how much for that one too?
Thanks
The amp will turn on immediatly once you just hook up a power and ground. It will not play any sound, just turn on.
On the board, 1 mosfet is completly blown and sort of exploded. An adjacent one is blacked but not cracked. This could have been caused from the first one blowing but I'm not sure. The board its self is blacked around about a sq. inch in this same area but doesn't appear to be cracked. I haven't tooken it completly apart yet just the back cover off. If you want I can list the numbers of the parts on the board that is either cracked or blackened or take it apart further and see exactly what is damaged. This is the only area that appears to be damaged but I'm unsure since its not completly apart yet.
Also none of the built in protectors were blown and at the time I only had a 20 amp fuse in it (30 max is recommended) and that didn't blow either. It just stop playing and at first I thought it had just got too hot or something and shut off for a bit. But after a while I noticed it didn't turn back on so I went to inspect it. Amp was on so I assumed it must have not been getting any input so I rechecked all the connections and still couldn't figure out what was wrong so I shut off my deck. Then I noticed the amp was still on so I unhooked everything and brought it inside to check it out. Then I found this...
I pretty sure it blew because of the high voltage/current switch was flipped the wrong way when I had the amp playing. My set-up was running at load of 4 ohms and set to the high current (supposed to use in 2 or 1 ohm loads) when it should had been set to the high voltage (supposed to use for 2+ ohm loads). I can't believe I was that dumb and forgot to check that thing.
The amps specs can be found here
http://www.carsound.com/reviews/amps/xm1002hx.html
It retails for around $280.
http://www.elitecaraudio.com/reviews...ew&reviewid=42
I really wish I had seen this post earlier. I just gave away 3 other amps that had blown and I didn't really want to take the time and mess with.
I'll also might be able to get back my blown Kenwood KAC829. My duma$$ friend that supposed to be this "genius" on car audio blew it up by putting the positive on the ground and the ground on the positive and then connecting the remote the positive using no fuses (besides the stock one on the amp itself). I think the only thing wrong with it is where you usually connect the wires to is grounding out together and just needs to be replaced but I have yet to inspect it closely. That was the only thing I noticed in the few minutes I looked over it. It retails for over $300 new so how much for that one too?
Thanks
I've got a 12" Kicker SoloBaric SL5 that was working perfectly, and then one of the tinsel wires got disconnected. It needs to be sautered back on, but I can't find anybody that can do it. Kicker won't repair it, so if you're interested in buying it e-mail me.
-Nik
-Nik
Well I bought the subs off Ebay brand new from a wholesaler. They aren't an "authorized" Kicker dealer so Kicker won't warrant them. I e-mailed Kicker simply asking if they could repair it for a cost and all they did was say no, and they offered to sell me a new sub at "discount price." Their idea of discount price was something crazy which was more than what I paid for it when it came out last year. I guess I'll try and sell it on Ebay or something and just get a little $ for it, since I can't get anybody to repair it.
I have a PPI amp 4 channel its not blown but i am trying to sell it for a more powerful one it has 400 watts email me at mysticslp2002@aol.com Thanks
Amp is in perfect working order!
Amp is in perfect working order!
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