In my car now I'm using a Pioneer DEH-P77DH HU with stock everything else. I'm looking to replace the door speakers b/c the midbass really doesn't sound good when turned up loud.

They sound pretty damn good low, put out a good amount of punch for 6.5s, is this because of the factory amp? I want to go to a component system in the doors, and I was just going to wire them directly from the HU.

Would the 2ohm speakers +stock amp have more power then 4 ohm aftermarket speakers wired directly to the HU?

I'm just afraid that I'm going to wire them directly and have it not sound as good as running off the amp.

Note: I don't plan on putting an aftermarket amp to the speakers.

 

Do it to the headunit. Go buy some bass blockers too. I was having the same problem. Now, i have no problem at all, mine sound great. There are different levels of frequency blockers, so just go to your local stereo installation place, tell em the size of the speaker, and they should know from there.

 

Bass blockers? I'm trying to buy a nice set of speakers that put out a decent amount of lows so that I can avoid getting a subwoofr, and the weight attached with it.

I've been oying around with the idea of maybe putting in 8" subs in the sail panel area and a small amp, but i'd rather just replace the stock size speakers and be over with it.

Wouldn't bass blockers be the opposite of what I am trying to do?

 

spend the extra money and get an amp for your speakers, most 6.5 components need more juice than a HU can put out, if you buy a nice set of 6.5 components and rear 6x9s with amp, they will sound crisp,clear, throughout and the 6.5s will thump pretty good

 

How hard would mounting an aftermarket amp where the stock one is be? I'm trying to keep my interior as clean and stock looking as possible

 

If you get a smaller amp, I think it's very possible. Or you can just get a larger MDF board, bolt it to the stock bracket, and attach your amp to it. There's plenty of space in the stock location as far as depth goes.

The stock amp is roughly 6" x 8", maybe 7 x 9 at most.

You should install a separate power wire direct from the battery, and use a low level (rca) connection to the amp for the cleanest signal.

One thing I did have to remove was the passenger side rear seat belt. I was using the seatbelt bolt area for my ground, and the terminal i had did not clear the seatbelt assembly bracket. No one sits back there anyways, so no big loss.

Initially I would just lay everything on the floor of the trunk until you get all your settings where you want them... Then permanently attach things.

 

Well if you are that worried about weight then I wouldn't mess with it. I personaly don't understand why people are worred about 20-40lbs of weight for a stereo. You should really amp components if you are getting some. Also an 8" sub wouldn't be a bad idea either.

 

94'_Z28,

If you make your own baffles, weight doesn't matter.

The factory baffles are plastic, and relatively thin (~3/32" ). It uses only 3 mounting points to the door panel. So if you add a 5lb speaker, there may likely be some flexing.

 

I was talking about the overall weight of the car.

 

As far as looking clean, next to the spare tire you can easily wedge an amp. all wires are hidden under there. Of course I opted for the JL Stealth box and simply ran a wire behind the carpet liner to the sub. Just an idea...

 

I guess I'll just get the speakers and see how they sound, go with and amp if I'm not satisfied.

Amp money is money that could be better spent on other part of the car though

 

I ran a set of Alpine SPS-170s off of just my Eclipse HU for a while, and they sounded great. They're not components, but they might be worth looking into if you don't want an amp.