Scratch one question! I found master sheets on crutchfield.com for my car! They're supposed to have all the wiring diagrams and everything. I figured for 5 bucks, they can't be that bad.

 

Have you read this thread? Should answer a couple of questions. (note very first FAQ! ) Also, the12volt has wiring diagrams galore. However they only go up to 2000. But, it's almost certain they are the same for 2001. I'm not sure which bracket you are talking about cutting? I didn't have to cut anything to install my aftermarket h/u. The Focal's will go upfront. The mids will fit directly in the doors. The tweets will need to be mounted some where. Many people DO mount them in the A-piller. The two speakers work as one. They are a team. They make up the mid-range and highs. Many many people choose to run just a driver's side stealth. There is not one thing wrong with that! I have been VERY surprised at the output capable of one stealth. Don't pay anybody to do your install. It's VERY easy and we all would be happy to help you any time you need it.

 

Ok, after talking to a bunch od people and reading everything I could so far, here's what I'm thinking of getting.

HU: Panasonic MXE CQ-HX1083 It's clean looking and has a remote that I can use the PAC SWI-X Steering Wheel Radio Control Interface with. It's got 3 pre-amp outputs and 1 sub preamp out

AMP: Kenwood eXcelon KAC-X650D 60 watts RMS x 4 + 200W x 1 at 4 ohms. I know a few folks didn't really think these were the best, but I'd like to keep it down to 1 amp. If you all think that it's not that great, lemme know.

Front: Rockford Fosgate FNX2614 (Need to figure out if I can coaxially mount the tweeters, these may go)

Rear: Kicker Resolution 02RMB6 6-3/4" Midbass Speakers

Sub: Alpine Type-R SWR-1041D 10" Dual 4-ohm Component Subwoofer. I was told the dual voice coils are better.

Sub box: 10" driver side stealth box.

Well, that's it. Not sure about the rockfords. A friend of mine is REALLY pushing them, but they're $250 on crutchfield, and I've seen some good deals on some other stuff.

Me and a few friends are gonna do the install with when I eventually order all this stuff. If you think any of it sucks, please just say so. I'd hate to find out after I install it. Thanks!

 

HU: Nope, Panasonics aren't that great of quality. Look seriously at Alpine, Pioneer or Kenwood

Amp: Nope, much better out there for less money. Are you really wanting a 5-channel or would you mind running two?

Front: Don't like the RF speakers, but their amps are great. Go with Focal, you will not regret it.

Rear: Okay, these are decent for Midbass/midrange, but you'll need to match the fronts.

Sub:

Enclosure: Go fiberglass, you'll get better sound and can run a 12".

PM me if you need a place to buy from, I know a good few. Crutchfield is literally retail and you can get stuff for $20-50 over wholesale very easily.

 

How much are you getting that Panasonic for? The Alpine's that I recommended are VERY hard (if not impossible) to beat for the money. The 7892 has 4-channel time correction..... for under $300?!?!?!?! Outstanding value.

Don't have a lot of experience with Kenwood amps. So I can't really say.......How much are you getting it for? Also check out the Kicker 5-channel amps. They output more then most other 5-channel amps in the same price range.

I personally have never used the Rockford components, but I haven't heard the best of reviews about them. Honestly. And you can't go wrong with Focal. I KNOW the K's will blow the Rockford's away, but if they are too expensive..... try the polyglass line.

You can run a 12" in the stealth if you ditch the spare tire and jack to use the passenger side box...... or use your t-top storage area!

 

Been looking at Alpine, Kenwood, and Pioneer for head units. Just noticed that 99% of them are 1 DIN. After looking at a few pictures, I'm not sure I'm too crazy about the fit and look of some of them.

Then I saw BandDirector Blk98ZM6's post and looked at his web page. That system seems to be exactly what I'm looking for. Plus, I get to keep the SCV and steering wheel controls.

I looked at www.tune-town.com for the PAC OEM-1 adapter that will give me 2 pair of RCA outs. How will that work with the sub, though. Don't you need a separate sub out to connect to the AMP that will be powering the sub? These 2 amps have speaker level inputs so can I just disconnect the two 4" speakers and run the wires to each amp? If I can just get that worked out, I think I'm going to go with:

Alpine MRD-M300 and Alpine MRV-F340 for amps.
Alpine Type-R SWR-1041D for the sub (with a fiberglass stealth box from JL audio)
Focal components up front, and the Kicker Resolution 02RMB6 in the rear.

Will this sound really crappy without the head unit? If not, I think this will do. So then, I just need a little help on how in the hell to wire the sub amp.

Thanks.

 

I am VERY happy with the sound of my stock HU and changer and using a PAC OEM-1 to get dual RCA outs as well as an amp turn on lead. The stock GM HU's are actually pretty "clean" and don't distort the signal until around 26 clicks of the volume ****. This has been verified by using an O-scope to check when distortion kicks in. I actually set all the levels on the OEM-1 and my amps at 16 clicks of the volume ****, so I am far from getting a clipped signal from the HU.

I am running a 4 channel amp and a 2 channel amp (bridged for the sub) in my system. I have Y-adapters for the front RCA outs of the OEM-1 and I'm running the full range speakers off of the front RCA outs using the 4 channel amp and then the rear outs are sending their signal to the sub amp. So, just get a set of Y-adapters and your idea will work great!

 

Why not use the Y-adapter on the rear RCAs, then run front and rear pair to the 4-channel amp and the other rear to the sub amp?

 

Cool. So is it better to run RCA outs to the AMP than to rip out the wires in the existing speakers and plug them into the speaker-level input of the AMPs?

The 55x4 AMP I was looking at (Alpine MRV-F340) has 4 speaker level inputs and the 150x1 AMP (Alpine MRD-M300) has 2 speaker level inputs. That way I could unplug the wires from the 2 front and 2 rear speakers and plug them into the 55x4, and plug the wire from the 2 hatch speakers into the 150x1. Would the soudn quality be worse that way?

 

Run RCA's you're just asking for trouble with what you have planned. An LOC will provide better SQ as it will bypass the Monsoon amp which is the weakest link in the system.

 

That could work too. I opted to use the front outs for all full range/mid-bass speakers and the rear-outs for the sub only because it could let me control the sub volume with the fader if I so desired. If I start fading to the front, the sub volume will decrease.


BlackZin01, yes it is better to use the RCA outs from the OEM-1 and run them directly to your amps. Also, do NOT try to use any stock wiring in your system. If you're adding aftermarket amps to aftermarket speakers, run a min. of 16 guage speaker wire to each speaker from the amp.

 

So any idea what the alternators are rated? Couldn't find anything in the owner's manual, and I can't get to it cause it's pretty far down.

Since I'll have a 55x4 and a 150x1 (both at 4 ohms) i figured:

(55 x 4) + (150 x 1) = 370 370 x 2 = 740 740/13.8 = 54

So that means that this system will draw 54 amps. Will I have enough juice? Thanks.

 

My stock alt. was 105amps max. Ran a 200x4@2ohm amp and a 1000x1@2ohms amp with 2 farad cap off the stock alt. No problems in over 2 years. Now I have a H/O alt. made by Irragi Alternator. dominick@tds.net

 

Wow. So I guess my 55x4 and 150x1 may be ok!

Is there a hole in the firewall that you can run an 8 awg wire through, or did you have to drill one?

This weekend's project is to start taking things apart and seeing where everything will fit. Just curious if I should waste my time looking for an opening in the firewall, or just head straight for the drill!

 

Read this thread. Especially the part about getting wires through the firewall.