Hey, I would like to upgrade my speakers. I have the 500 watt (cough* cough* year right cough*) monsoon system. I dont rock out all the time, so it is plenty loud for me. all i care about is power now. So, I dont want to replace my head-unit, disc changer or amps. I just want to replace the crappy blown out speakers and subs. Anyone know of a good replacement for my stock 2 ohm speakers?

thanks!
Justin

 

Any 4 ohm speaker with a 1W/1M SPL of 90 dB or higher will yield better results than stock (size can be 6.5" or 6.75"). There are 2 ohm replacements available by some such as Infinity, Image Dynamics, etc....but they aren't the cheapest and not necessary. The front doors are component speakers fed by 2 separate channels (filtered) of the Monsoon amp - so if you choose to go with coaxial speakers there, they will require some wiring modification to split the signals from the amp to the proper components (the speaker's filter's cannot just handle this because the components are driven by TWO different filtered channels).

For the rears - this is where you have to decide if you want subs/woofers there like factory, or if you plan on adding a sub for more bass. There are a variety of midbass drivers that will work well such as:

Adire Audio Extremis 6.4
Ascendant Audio 6.5"
Dayton RS180-4 7"
Mach 5 MLI-65

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Or subs like:

Elemental Designs 7Kv.2
Mpyre Audio 65x

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Or many others....

the one that works best IMO is the Elemental Designs, primarily due to the dual 4 ohm voice coils making it a good match for the Monsoon amp.

 

i'm in the market to replace both door speakers since they are blown, and i've been through 4 stockers...

would something like this blaupunkt GTx652 speaker work? they show it as a factory replacement.

how about any of these that Crutchfield lists??

not looking for high end...just something to listen to while driving....

 

teke184 - do you have the Monsoon system?

 

sorry...YES...

sound quality is not a huge concern. all i need them to do is FUNCTION.

don't want to spend a ton on these speakers either...but i'm willing to pay for an easy replacement...ie...not having to rewire crap...

$50-75 for plug and play simplicity is fine with me.

 

same here. i want to replace all the speakers. i am not looking for the ultimate sound. just something decent. and i too like simplicity.

 

simplicity is where this gets tricky for the front doors....

The front doors are component speakers. In the Camaro, they are run off of separate channels from the amplifier, one with a high pass filter for the tweeter component, and one with a low pass filter for the woofer component. Anyways...coax speakers only have two terminals, and the component set in the doors as factory given has 4 wires (2 for the tweeter, 2 for the woofer). Because of that, the only way to make life easier in replacing them is using component speakers. It may be hard to find a place to mount the tweeter though, but thats more "physical" and this requires the LEAST amount of wiring.

Another option that is probably easier than the last is is you plan on buying a new HU, then just run new wires from the HU to the front doors. Not very complicated, and you would have a new HU on top of that that puts out a LOT less distortion, which your new speakers would love since distortion kills speakers.

The last option is purchase coaxials - however, some aren't really suitable for this task (most are...some are just easier). Some examples are:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6370.html

Basically...what you would have to do is separate the 2 components -- you would wire the stock wires currently running to the woofers to the two speaker terminals like normal, and then the wires that go to the tweeter on the new speaker would have to be snipped. You would make sure to leave the capacitor in the loop (just in case.....this is more clear when looking at a speaker) and run the other 2 wires there. You can't just combine all 4 wires to the main terminals though, because the 4 wires come from 2 separate filtered channels on your amp. I can provide more details on wire colors/exactly what to do if this interests you.

 

For rear speakers, would something like this be doable? All you really need to do is create a spacer....wiring is simple. If you want cheaper options that will act less as a sub and more as midbass, let me know (some are listed above in a post earlier)

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=495784

These are another option....but also require a spacer, and are more costly...so might as well stay away from them (4 ohm impedance as well)
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~aco...is/index.shtml
Extremis 6.4

 

i dont mind a bit of wire work. i dont want to replace the HU though. i like the clean look of it.

 

OK - with the Camaro system, the "easiest" way to replace factory door speakers is to go with coaxials. To have these sound their best/loudest, you would need to modify the wiring a little. However, you do not HAVE to...

The woofer component in the doors receives most of the power between that and the tweeter - so if you were to choose one set of wires, that would be the one to go with. The coax speaker itself will take car of all of the filtering for the tweeter/woofer parts, so that would not be an issue. You would also have a speaker fully intact still and would be easier then if you replaced the HU further down. To help compensate for the loss of power, you could purchase some 2 ohms replacements from Infinity or Image Dynamics, but they will cost a little more and probably not sound THAT much louder than a pretty efficient 4 ohm.

The biggest drawback I see to this though is having to crank the volume more which causes more distortion from the HU and you risk blowing your speakers faster..

 

Buy some Infinty 62.7i's for the doors, dual inputs like stock, 2ohm and fit perefect and sound much better. Been running them for a year now and still like them. You can pick them up online for around $100. They are the best replacement speaker you can get for the Monsoon amp'd system and require zero mods to work, you don't even need the crossover supplied. I run them in my sailpanel too.. but I have 2 10's running off a seperate amp for the low bass.

 

Why would you not need the crossover? What is separating the frequencies then to prevent damage to your speakers? The stock amp only has a low pass filter for the rear sail woofers....the front components have a capacitor integrated into the tweeter wiring....which is where the filtering takes place.