i need help cause i have no clue what to get, i dont knwo the differnces between the 2 ways, the 3 ways , coax or components.

so far i have to ten inch alpine type r reds, and i have these phoenix gold 6 inch xs series speakers with the tweeters in the center of them that you can point in various directions.

for amps i have a rockford punch 500x2 and a rockford punch 400x4.

the car is a formula with the ten speaker package, the bulge up front and the speakers in the hatch area.

please help me select the right speakers i need and tell me wether i can use the pheonix golds up front or the back.

and do i need another amp to run the speakers in the hatch area?

for head unit i have this

http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/315

 

no one?

 

How did you go about buying all the equipment if you don't know how to use it? Well....I think we're still OK. For the front, I recommend a component set. The set is (2) 6.5", (2) tweeters and (2) passive crossovers. You have seperate mounting locations for tweeter and woofer in your car already, so a component set is a must. How much you looking to spend? How about these? Or can you afford better? Remember, the component's are going to be playing the bulk of your music. They make or break your system. Put your PG's in the rear and power the front and rears with the 400x4. Make sure to LP the PG's. Don't want those high frequencies playing from behind the listener. How many Type-R's do you have? What impedance are they? Dual 2 ohm? Dual 4 ohm? You will want to wire them to a 4 ohm load and bridge your 500x2. Disconnect the hatch speakers all together. And no I'm not kidding.

 

yes i can afford better, thats a very good price though for a whole set.

whats LP the PGs? i understand the PG-pheonix gold.

i have two type rs, ten inch reds, i think there the two ohms not sure. what ever the better of the two were, i got em off a buddy who went nuts one boxing day sale and bought the best of what he could find.

why disconnect the hatch speakers? they dont do anything!!??

as for buying the equipment, i got the pheonix golds a few years ago when my stockers crapped out. the subs, box and 500x2 amp i got off a buddy when he sold his hardtop TA for a t top one.

the other 400x4 amp i bought cause i wanted a matching amp and i knew i was going to upgrade the rest of the speakers.

and thanks for your help i was beggining to think no one ventured this side of the board.

 

Plenty of people visit this section. Although I DO wish it was more popular.

LP=Low pass. As in low pass filter. Meaning all frequencies LOWER then the set freq will be allowed to "pass". So if I have at LP filter set at 80Hz, only frequencies 80Hz and below will be allow through. Get it? Oh, and HP=High pass. Just the opposite.

Type-R red's? Are these the subs you have? You need to find out FOR SURE if they are the dual 4 ohm or the dual 2 ohm. Look on the box or on the back of the magnet. The model number will even tell you:
SWR-1041D=Dual 4 ohm
SWR-1021D=Dual 2 ohm

To create a solid front stage, you want to prevent high frequencies from coming behind the listener. The further back and high the freq, the worse. Those tiny a$$ hatch speakers aren't doing anything but drawing your soundstage to the rear. Just disconnect them.

 

okay ill check the subs and get back to you.

thanks for your help.

those components you suggested, are those good enough or is there anything better?

i guess ill pull the hatch speakers out then.

 

4 OHM bud.

 

Honestly, those are such a good deal, in my opinion you'd have to spend atleast twice that price to get components that would be worth your money. Know what I'm saying? I could show you a $250 set, but they'd only be marginally better. Not worth the extra cash. CDT makes outstanding components. Don't worry. If you're willing to spend $300-$350, then that's a different story. Or even more then that? Thezeb also has CDT's highest line for the low low price of $699.

 

lol, bunkers the guy i bought em off of, so the subs are 4 ohm ones.

thanks for your help, looks like ill be getting those compenents then.

 

Ok, so you will want to use a series-parallel wiring scheme. You know how to do that? Follow this link. 2 DVC drivers in series/parallel. This will present your amp with a final load of 4 ohms. Use the positive from one channel on the 500x2 and the negative from the other channel. This will bridge the amp. Those type-r should pound pretty good.

 

thanks a lot for your help. one last question, is the firebird front speakers with the tweeter design a 6 inch or 6.5 inch? i thought it was a 6.5 inch but my 6's fit in there pretty good.

 

6.5S = 6.75

 

I thought you liked Infinity Perfect 6.1s? I tad more expensive than the pair you linked us to. Anyways, 6.1s are what I'm getting.

 

Yeah, the Perfect's are ok.... I never said they were better then the CDT's or anything....

 

I never said you did. I was just curious why you didn't mention them.