installation help needed badly!!!
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,978
From: MI
installation help needed badly!!!
i'm trying to hookup my neons remotely to my alarm......to do this i need to use a relay inline with the channel expander for the alarm. anyone have experience with this or at least relay knowledge?
the relay has 5 wires like most......
1)#85 black ground wire
2)#86 red power wire
3)#87 (NO) brown wire(normally open, connected
to #30 when relay coil is energized)
4)#87A (NC) orange wire(normally closed, connected to #30 when relay coil is engergized)
5)#30 (COMMON) yellow wire (when the coils is not energized 30(common) conncects to 87a) (when the coil is energized 30 (common) connects to 87)
it says to activate the relay, determine what the trigger signal will be, and connect the opposite end of the coil to constant power or ground as required.
the signal wire from the channel expander box is a negative output.
any ideas? i know there are a few of you out there who could make this a piece of cake please help me out.
the relay has 5 wires like most......
1)#85 black ground wire
2)#86 red power wire
3)#87 (NO) brown wire(normally open, connected
to #30 when relay coil is energized)
4)#87A (NC) orange wire(normally closed, connected to #30 when relay coil is engergized)
5)#30 (COMMON) yellow wire (when the coils is not energized 30(common) conncects to 87a) (when the coil is energized 30 (common) connects to 87)
it says to activate the relay, determine what the trigger signal will be, and connect the opposite end of the coil to constant power or ground as required.
the signal wire from the channel expander box is a negative output.
any ideas? i know there are a few of you out there who could make this a piece of cake please help me out.
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 127
From: Littleton, CO, USA
The channel expander output is a ground (-) output. It will need to be on the 1)#85 black ground wire.
A constant power supply wire will need to be used for both #86 (red) and #87 (brown). Just place a fuse on power input of the wire you use to feed these. Run the wire directly to #87 and then jump from there with a short wire on to #86.
There should be a wire already run which will be the power supply for your Neons. You'll need to cut that line and run each of the ends to the relay. #87A (orange) will need to be connected to the side of the wire that goes to the SWITCH inside the car which turns on the Neons.
The other side of the wires (the side that goes to the Neon itself will need to be connected to #30 (yellow).
This information is correct only as long as the switch controling your Neons is connected to a power wire and not a ground. (Most likely that is the case). If you find that this is not the case, come back for further instruction. Don't wanna confuse ya with two sets of instructions when the other probably would not be needed and might even blow a fuse.
HTH
------------------
99 Z28 LS1 (broken with 383 replacement in the works) M6
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A constant power supply wire will need to be used for both #86 (red) and #87 (brown). Just place a fuse on power input of the wire you use to feed these. Run the wire directly to #87 and then jump from there with a short wire on to #86.
There should be a wire already run which will be the power supply for your Neons. You'll need to cut that line and run each of the ends to the relay. #87A (orange) will need to be connected to the side of the wire that goes to the SWITCH inside the car which turns on the Neons.
The other side of the wires (the side that goes to the Neon itself will need to be connected to #30 (yellow).
This information is correct only as long as the switch controling your Neons is connected to a power wire and not a ground. (Most likely that is the case). If you find that this is not the case, come back for further instruction. Don't wanna confuse ya with two sets of instructions when the other probably would not be needed and might even blow a fuse.
HTH
------------------
99 Z28 LS1 (broken with 383 replacement in the works) M6
stereo pics FOR SALE!!!
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Last chance to send your dollar!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,978
From: MI
the transformer is grounded itself where as the power wire from the transformer leads to a lighted switch. the switch has its constant power and its acc(neon wire)...pretty straight forward.
for the constant power supply: is there a reason for your order? can i run the wire to 86 then use a jumper wire to 87? or do i have to go to 87 and use a jumper to 86, is there a difference? do i need to use a fuse on the jumper wire?
for this section can i splice into the constant power source off the switch or another item? or should it have it's own?
what do you mean by each of the ends of the line? are you talking the constant power that supplies the switch? do you mean splice a line off of it to 87a?
is this is the (+ input) wire on the transformer that you are talking about.....can i just splice this wire as well? that way i can still use the switch to if i'd like.
the idea is to be able to use the existing switch but also be able to use the remote expander........will this be possible with the pre-existing switch using this wiring arangement?
[This message has been edited by kandied91z (edited August 01, 2002).]
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">A constant power supply wire will need to be used for both #86 (red) and #87 (brown). Just place a fuse on power input of the wire you use to feed these. Run the wire directly to #87 and then jump from there with a short wire on to #86. </font>
for this section can i splice into the constant power source off the switch or another item? or should it have it's own?
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">There should be a wire already run which will be the power supply for your Neons. You'll need to cut that line and run each of the ends to the relay. #87A (orange) will need to be connected to the side of the wire that goes to the SWITCH inside the car which turns on the Neons.</font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">The other side of the wires (the side that goes to the Neon itself will need to be connected to #30 (yellow).</font>
the idea is to be able to use the existing switch but also be able to use the remote expander........will this be possible with the pre-existing switch using this wiring arangement?
[This message has been edited by kandied91z (edited August 01, 2002).]
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 127
From: Littleton, CO, USA
Aren't relays fun??? 
Yes, that should be pretty straight forward. The neon wire is the one that you're going to be using for the relay. You have to cut it, put the side that goes to the switch on #87. Put the side that goes to the transformer on #30.
No, not really, just preference. I figure that the completed circuit (#87 to #30) will produce the biggest draw of power. Put the biggest draw on power closest to the power source. (that short of a distance won't really matter)
No, you don't, it's already fused on it's way to #87 and the fuse would blow if needed.
I suppose that you could tap in to the switch power source. If it were me, I'd go to something else like the constant power supply to the ignition/starter and everything else which is on the steering column. Your choice really though.
I mean cut the wire between the switch and the transformer. The switch side goes to #87A, the transformer side goes to #30. This is what allows you to still control the neons with the regular switch.
#87A and #30 are Connected all the time EXCEPT when #87 and #30 are connected by actually activating the relay. Because #87 has power all the time, when the relay is activated it connects #30 to #87 and the same thing as turning on the switch.
Yes, that's the wire that goes to #30, no, you can't just splice in to it, you HAVE to cut it. See the last response to see that you'll still be able to control it with the switch.
Yes, the five wire relay that you're setting up with this is really about the only (well at least it's the most straight forward and easy) way to let you use the original switch and control with another source (i.e. this relay).
It won't be that difficult once you do it.
------------------
99 Z28 LS1 (broken with 383 replacement in the works) M6
stereo pics FOR SALE!!!
Moderator at MustangVsCamaro.com
Last chance to send your dollar!
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by kandied91z:
the transformer is grounded itself where as the power wire from the transformer leads to a lighted switch. the switch has its constant power and its acc(neon wire)...pretty straight forward.</font>
the transformer is grounded itself where as the power wire from the transformer leads to a lighted switch. the switch has its constant power and its acc(neon wire)...pretty straight forward.</font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">for the constant power supply: is there a reason for your order? can i run the wire to 86 then use a jumper wire to 87? or do i have to go to 87 and use a jumper to 86, is there a difference? </font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">do i need to use a fuse on the jumper wire?</font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">for this section can i splice into the constant power source off the switch or another item? or should it have it's own?</font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
what do you mean by each of the ends of the line? are you talking the constant power that supplies the switch? do you mean splice a line off of it to 87a?
There should be a wire already run which will be the power supply for your Neons. You'll need to cut that line and run each of the ends to the relay. #87A (orange) will need to be connected to the side of the wire that goes to the SWITCH inside the car which turns on the Neons.</font>
what do you mean by each of the ends of the line? are you talking the constant power that supplies the switch? do you mean splice a line off of it to 87a?
#87A and #30 are Connected all the time EXCEPT when #87 and #30 are connected by actually activating the relay. Because #87 has power all the time, when the relay is activated it connects #30 to #87 and the same thing as turning on the switch.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">is this is the (+ input) wire on the transformer that you are talking about.....can i just splice this wire as well? that way i can still use the switch to if i'd like.</font>
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">the idea is to be able to use the existing switch but also be able to use the remote expander........will this be possible with the pre-existing switch using this wiring arangement?</font>
It won't be that difficult once you do it.
------------------
99 Z28 LS1 (broken with 383 replacement in the works) M6
stereo pics FOR SALE!!!
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 127
From: Littleton, CO, USA
You know... in retrospect... I think I was 1/2 wrong up there... You probably don't need all five wires. Ignore #87A, you don't need it.
Just splice in to the transformers (+) lead and connect it with 30.
Connect #87 to power (with a fuse), connect #86 to #87 (jumper basically).
Connect #85 to the output of your expander.
Damn... that was a whole lot easier.
You shouldn't need to five-wire this relay. Ignore the crap I posted above however pretty and clearly written it might be
------------------
99 Z28 LS1 (broken with 383 replacement in the works) M6
stereo pics FOR SALE!!!
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Last chance to send your dollar!
Just splice in to the transformers (+) lead and connect it with 30.
Connect #87 to power (with a fuse), connect #86 to #87 (jumper basically).
Connect #85 to the output of your expander.
Damn... that was a whole lot easier.
You shouldn't need to five-wire this relay. Ignore the crap I posted above however pretty and clearly written it might be
------------------
99 Z28 LS1 (broken with 383 replacement in the works) M6
stereo pics FOR SALE!!!
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Last chance to send your dollar!
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,978
From: MI
it was very pretty as well as quite clear.....
thankyou for taking the time to help me with this, it has been quite a while since i've tried something like this and you have saved me a great deal of time.
you have been very helpful........thanks again!
jeff
thankyou for taking the time to help me with this, it has been quite a while since i've tried something like this and you have saved me a great deal of time.
you have been very helpful........thanks again!
jeff
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 127
From: Littleton, CO, USA
You're welcome, that's what we're here for. Send Paypal money now
jk
------------------
99 Z28 LS1 (broken with 383 replacement in the works) M6
stereo pics FOR SALE!!!
Moderator at MustangVsCamaro.com
Last chance to send your dollar!
jk
------------------
99 Z28 LS1 (broken with 383 replacement in the works) M6
stereo pics FOR SALE!!!
Moderator at MustangVsCamaro.com
Last chance to send your dollar!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,978
From: MI
got everything working great except for one small problem......
now it seems as if one set of lights will only stay on for roughly 2 min before shutting off.......this is using the relay or normal switch. the relay will still stay on as well as the switch; but the lights go out.
what would this mean?
now it seems as if one set of lights will only stay on for roughly 2 min before shutting off.......this is using the relay or normal switch. the relay will still stay on as well as the switch; but the lights go out.
what would this mean?
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