To whomever asked, I was just running a sealed hatch-style box, because that setup was in my old car. The stealthbox can't fit any JL sub bigger than a W3, so if you were to want to go to a W6 you'd have to figure something else out. That's the stage I'm at, since I want to go with a better sub but space is limited.

 

MTX stealth box
Rockford HX2 10" 1000 watt max
Rockford amp 900 watt (home made amp rack)

I dunno anything about that ohm stuff I just know I hooked it up and it thumped.

 

Drivers side subthump box with a dual coil 2 ohm, 10 inch Alpine Type-R sub.

Blaupunkt PA2150 that bridges to over 400 watts mono @4 ohm.
Amp sits behind the opposite plastic on the passenger side.


.

 

i'm have 3 jl 12w0-4 but only have one hooked up right now until i get another amp it in a single box with a rockford 301m 900w amp (300w rms) **** pounds but i think i might be over powering it

 

Custom DS Stealth Englocsure, 1" thick Fiberglass/MDF Frame.
10" Adire Brahma MKII Subwoofer
Audiobahn A2200HCX, 1600Wrms
2 Farad's of Caps, 200A Alternator, and a Yellow Top dedicated to the stereo/electronics

 

Thanks for all the ideas you guys !

My goal is to have a system that I won't mind getting stolen . Basically, every system I've ever had has been stolen, and insurance wouldn't cover it (State Farm / Progressive)

I'm going to try and get by without a cap. If I have to get one, I'm thinking of getting a 1F digital one..

45 x 4 Mp3 headunit (cheapest I can get) $100-150
800x1 @ 2ohm RMS Mono Sub $150
1 x PHOENIX GOLD R12D (DVC) $60
1 cu. ft. box $20

Total:

$330-350

Thoughts ?

(If that single sub isn't enough, then I'll sell it, and replace it with 2 x Kicker free-air subs up front). My concern is that in the convertible, the sub will be rattling the trunk, but not giving me the desired effect up front

 

You will lose any cabin gain when you put the top down, and you won't get quite as much with the top up as you would with a hardtop + hatchback, but it should still be decently loud. A friend of mine had 2 10's in a SN95 Mustang vert, with the top down it lost a lot of the kick but it sounds much louder outside the car.

 

in mine i have a convertable so i built custom box with an amp.

Amp= 350 rms monoblock Apline 150.00
Sub= 500rms 1500 peak alpine type r 150.00
box= custom so it fits inside about 1 cubic foot 15.00
speakers= 4 alpine type s un aplified
Headunit= factory monsoon because i dont want anyone to slash my top and steal my ****

One 10'' inch sub will shake your car a good amount. if you have a converable 4th gen i can get you dimensions on the box

 

I know what you're facing exactly. I used to drive a 95 Trans Am convertible. I ran a few different setups in that car, and honestly, none of them were really stellar once the top went down.

Exactly how much bass do you want? And what plans do you have for your front stage?

I can help you through the process, and I can also help you make this setup as hard to steal as possible, also as affordable as possible.

 

I'm trying to run a single 12" sub but bombed on the box measurements. Does anyone have specs on building a box for a 4th gen convertible? I tried to buy a box at several shops and the lowest estimate I got for a "custom fabricated" box was "around $700." WTF??!! I don't want a competition type of system, just something to really complement my highs and mids while on the road. (well mainly in traffic...I live in L.A.)

 

My Setup.

Reciever: Pioneer 7700MP (22wRMS/50wMAX) x 4
Amp: Rockford Fosgate 4004 (Powering Components and Bridged to Sub)
Max power per channel: 1200W @ 2 ohms
200W RMS (continuous) x 2 @ 4 ohms, bridged
100W RMS (continuous) x 4 @ 2 ohms
50W RMS (continuous) x 4 @ 4 ohms
Components: Rockford Fosgate P162S 6.5" (60wRMS/120wMAX)
Sub: Rockford Fostgate P210S4 10" Stage 2 4ohm (200wRMS/400wMAX)
Box: Subthump 10"
Cap: RF 1 Farad
One of a Kind Installation from Best Buy Tech "Lenny": AMP/Cap Rack in spare compartment, Wiring, Speaker Mounting

I love working at Best Buy

-Dustin-

 

Sub: Concept 12"
Amp: Concept 500W RMS
Box: Custom built where the t-tops would go if i had t-tops
Pic: http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...68_32_full.jpg
(old picture when it wasnt hooked up, but you get the idea)

Its loud enough when i have the head unit tuned right, when the top is down though i have to turn the sub output all the way up so that i can actually hear it.

 

1 12" sub. Bought a custom enclosure someone was selling on here years ago. Fits in the DS rear unused cubby hole. Fits great, and about as much volume as you could have in that spot.

Audiobahn sub, Memphis 1000D amp running 2ohm mono. Sadly, the amp died one day out of the blue after a long time of flawless service; it sounded really good, and hit hard; had a number of people tell me they couldn't believe I only had a single 12 in the car.

 

We were running:

Premier DEH-P560MP head unit
Premier CDX-P626S CD changer
Rockford Fosgate Punch 501X amp on mids/tweets
Rockford Fosgate Power 500bd amp on sub
Rockford Fosgate Fanatic-X 6.5" components up front
Rockford Fosgate 6.5" two-ways in the rear
Rockford Fosgate 15" Punch HX2 in a custom box (I built the box)
Rockford Fosgate 1-farad cap.

All this stuff was in my wife's 2001 V6 Camaro. I did the install and stuff myself. Metered over 141db on the new TermLab sensor at a MECA event.

It's all (except for the head unit) for sale right now actually.

 

Does your back seat open up exposing the trunk? You might just make a sunk in sub and amp behind the seat and just fold the seat down when you want to hear in the cabin.