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Fiberglass box removel?

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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 07:21 PM
  #1  
firebirdude's Avatar
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Fiberglass box removal?

Ok gentlemen. Tomorrow I am going to start my fiberglass adventure. This will be my first time using fiberglass for car audio. (have SOME marine experience) First, I plan on making basically a mold of the rear section of our cars. Including removing the side plastic panels, spare tire, jack etc. VERY similar to what this guy did:
http://www.sounddomain.com/member_pa...=108770&page=2
My question is: How am I going to remove it once it's dry? It should be wider then the actual opening of the hatch, because the quarter-panels are curved. I know that is a 3rd Gen but I think he should have run into the same problem. I e-mailed him and got no response. The only idea I have is to build it two sections. The right half and the left half. But I'm afraid that this will weaken the box once joined together. (It will be a common chamber box) Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Last edited by firebirdude; Jan 1, 2003 at 11:11 AM.
Old Jan 1, 2003 | 12:35 PM
  #2  
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From: Door County, WI
yea, his set up is pretty nice. But here are some things you might wanna consider before you dive into the project. In reality you dont need to have the whole box be made out of fiberglass. When most people make fiberglass boxes they make the whole thing out of fiberglass to maximize air space. With F-bodys we have plenty of air space in the deep hump behind the rear wheels. I would reccomend that you make the majority of the box out of MDF, that stuff is super dense and provides the best sound. You should just make the top panel(cover, layer, ect.) out of fiberglass. That way you get the look of that custom box, but have an easier time making it and it will sound better, unless you make the fiberglass box really really thick with lots of layers of glass its going to sound kinda tinny and have a little bit of an echo. good luck with your project, keep us posted
Old Jan 1, 2003 | 01:19 PM
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The box will be part fiberglass part MDF. Actually, I was gonna do it the other way around. Use fiberglass for the bottom due to all the curves in the rear area and a flat 1" MDF top to mount the subs in. I don't care if the top is wood, I'm just trying to win the battle for space!
Old Jan 3, 2003 | 02:12 PM
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Just thought I'd keep you guys updated. My friend and I decided that we were going to do his truck first. He wants two JL 10W6's under the rear seats in his extended cab. So we went to a local fiberglass supply store and bought everything we needed. And I mean everything!! We ended up spending $270 and still had no brushes, drop cloths, etc. Why so much? Well, we bought kyntex. The best kind too.... 1708 I think? It was like $10.50/ 50"X36" And some heavy weight matting. We got enough for both of our vehicles. That, plus a 5-gallon drum of Laminating resin, mold release, bubble rollers, and some sufacing agent (To make finishing resin) Made a quick stop by home depot because the brushes at the fiberglass store were WAYYY to expensive. ($4 compared to .87 )
Well, to make a long story short, we taped everything off. Applied a quick coat of mold release and went to town! We did 2 layers of mat and 1 layer of kyntex. It's going to be a small sealed low power enclosure that is part MDF so we figured that would be good enough. It turned out VERY good. Haven't finished the MDF part yet, but once we do and get the subs in, I'll post pictures of the whole evolution. And to anyone thinking of doing their own fiberglass work..... I say go for it. It's not as hard as some people make it out to be. Just make sure you tape off everything real good and have about 20 pairs of gloves on station before you start!!! We are doing my car this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted!!
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