This week I got busy w/ the interior--and the Bose system--and replaced the driver side switches (window master and lock actuator), driver lock actuator, passenger door handle, replaced the mat'l on the door insert panels, got both the front Bose amps rebuilt and put in a Bose HU w/ CD & an mp3 port the guy put in. Buttoned everything back up--testing as I went along--and yesterday, finished up by putting the t-tops back on and rolling up the windows. The Bose system worked great, as did everything else. It rained here yesterday, so I waited until today to take it out.

Drove it today and noticed the Bose CD was kinda flaky, but thought it was a bad CD. Tried another and it seemed to work fine. Tried the windows, and...nothing. Door lock actuators still work. Brought it back in the garage, did basic troubleshooting and noticed on the pass. side, the door switch & window were reversed somehow (last time I rolled up the windows was from the master), so switched those back, but still no window control. And when I put the key in KOEO, now the Bose HU no longer works. At all--altho if I press RCL, the clock lights up, but w/ the wrong time--like after the battery was disconnected.

Checked the 30A breaker, and it's good. Checked the 2 fuses (8 & 15, both 15A), and both are good. Haynes says there's a relay for the window control, but I doubt that's the problem, since the Bose isn't working either.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Any info, testing procedure, etc. you can provide is much appreciated. I do have a (heretofore) working Bose cassette HU I could put back in for testing, if it would reveal anything.

 

Btw, read the posting just below and pulled up Shoebox's schematic for the RAP. Wasn't sure what to do w/ that info (didn't know what a RAP was), but kept looking and found an old post from '04 where Rob notes how to test it ("Unplug the RAP module and use a fused jumper to jump between "B" (dark blue) and "C" (red) in the harness connector. If the radio and windows work, then the RAP is at fault"), and where it is. Also found a couple threads where other guys were having the exact same issue, which helps. It ain't easy finding a RAP for sale; a search only turned up a used one, in AL.

Fortunately, I'm redoing the entire interior (carpet, seats, etc) in ~2 weeks, so will have everything out, which will make it easier to test and replace this--assuming it's the problem. But from what some others have said, seems like it is.

If anyone knows other sources for this part, do tell.

 

Year of car? RAP module 93-95; RAP is in BCM 96/97.

 

Yep, once I read thru ~50 threads, saw that I don't have a BCM--just the RAP. Shoebox's posts explained a lot. Finally found a PN (12135089), but it's almost impossible to find--even used.

Could be I shorted it when I reinstalled the pass. switches. Coulda swore I had them right, but the harnesses are identical, and I musta got 'em reversed when I fed everything back thru the door and switch panel--which was tough enuff to reinstall (had some problems getting the lock slide back in correctly). While they use the same harness, I'm sure the resistance is diff. It's also possible that all the new electronics I put in played a role.

Just hope I can find another module.

 

I'm resigned to the fact I'll never get another RAP--even used--and am thinking in terms of a Plan B. I've read posts where they discuss bypassing it, but at a cost--i.e., the low coolant indicator, etc. I'd like to have everything working, and as it sits, everything is 'cept for the radio & window control.

Can a RAP can be repaired? I know a BCM (which I don't have) can, but what about a standalone RAP? If so, given that radio & window control are the only things I've lost, what element(s) would need to be repaired? I'm not sure replacing the 2 relays would do the trick, since those relays control other things that aren't affected.

Is there a bypass kit that would maintain full functionality? I couldn't find anything, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. If so, who makes it, and where could I get it?

Any info is much appreciated. I gotta have my radio & windows.

 

Have you reviewed the troubleshooting procedure in the factory service manual? In the 1994 manual it starts on Page 8A-15-0. Unfortunately, many of the logic chart branches terminate with "Replace...... Module". Not sure what year your car is. 7 years and still no signature.

http://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

Might want to try Hawks Motorsports. They have a variety of used parts. I don't see a RAP module in their current online listing, but they have a field full of "salvage" cars that they might be able to pull a part from. Worth a phone call.

https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/

There may be other salvage yards that specialize in 4th Gen parts. As far as I know, this part is for 1993-1995. Have you found evidence that it was also used in the 1996, as listed in your Parts Wanted post?

Not sure what the inside of the module looks like, but if there is a printed circuit board, it's likely that the terminals may be corroded and cracking. GaryDoug has been successful in repairing the circuit boards in the BCM.

 

Hawks was 1 of the first places I checked, but forgot 'bout their graveyard. I sent Ryan an email. I've checked the places around here, but nothing. Most of 'em never heard of a RAP module--just like I never had until mine croaked. Finding a 4th Gen in the yards down here is a rarity. I got lucky 'bout 2 yrs. ago and managed to get the fog lamps & brackets.

I read thru hundreds of posts on this, and saw where some guys who had a 96 didn't have a BCM. Given how obscure this part seems to be, I figured I'd cover all the bases, but did note I needed the non-BCM RAP (pn 12135089).

I saw Gary's posts on repairing a BCM; I wonder if something similar is possible for the RAP. I'll take mine out and break it down, but might run into the same issue I had w/ the Bose amps. Those amps are known for bad caps, but mine showed no evidence of that--no doming, bulging, leaking, etc. And I've repaired micro electronics before--esp. caps. When I talked to the guy @ ebay, he told me a visual inspection wouldn't tell me anything. He was right, and got 'em both working. I wonder how much I'll learn from breaking down a RAP, but it's worth a try.

But I really hope I get lucky w/ Hawks.

 

Still no luck. Even called the guys Rob mentioned in a long-ago post (hey, you never know). Still hoping they can dig one up @ Hawks, but it ain't lookin' good. I did find the following post that might wind up being my only option, altho I'm not entirely clear on what Gary is saying:
The window/radio relay is indeed my issue, and now the trunk lock actuator isn't working. I'm a bit concerned about the current draw he notes. Once I have it out maybe it will be clearer to me. I already have the console out, and will be taking out the seats next week. Until I do that, can't get to it.

 

Are you ever going to create a signature Tampa? This is one of the key things requested on the site to get help.

 

Well, as I've indicated on various occasions, I have a 94. There's nothing special about it. I suppose I could put that I upgraded the tranny when I had it rebuilt, cut a trap door, rerouted the fuel lines, new exhaust, etc., but I doubt anyone cares about stuff like that. It's basically a stock car. Nothin' to see here.

As to this issue, there are really only 2 options: what Gary outlines (see above) or a used RAP module. Once I looked at the schematics & a photo of the part against Gary's comments, I see what he's saying. Dunno if anyone else has pulled this part, but I have, and can tell you it's a real challenge to splice the dk blue wire into the brown. There just isn't much room down there to work, and the harness is tight.

The best option is a repl. module, but they are extremely hard to find. Hawks doesn't have it, and the other "Camaro" yards I've contacted never even heard of it. Neither had I until it went bad, but even after sending them photos of where it is & what it looks like...nothing. There is a guy on ebay who says he has it, but so far...nothing. They sometimes show up there, but it could be months before I see another one--and I'd need to check ebay daily. As I note above, the pn is 12135089, and that's the only one that will work (2 relays). I also provided the correct info in my posting in "parts wanted." If someone has one they are willing to let go, great, but I'm not holdin' my breath.

It sucks that a cheap part is keeping me from doing the interior & driving it. But since the 93-96 Camaros ('cept for the limited run of LT4s) aren't considered "classic" or anything more than a nearly 30yr. old car, it is what it is.

 

You wouldn't even answer my question in post #3 when I asked you what year it is. Are we supposed to submit to memory the vehicle year for all 100,000+ members????? I've given up at this point.

 

Just make a signature, as per the sites request... It takes 30 seconds. Why so much push back?

 

C'mon now, give me some credit. By the 2nd post, I had correctly diagnosed the issue, and in my response, told you I didn't have a BCM and listed the correct pn (12135089) I need. Sometimes it really is that simple--esp. if you read a great number of threads/posts (both here & other sites) that take you down the right path. And I did.

At first I didn't know what a RAP was, but after reading the thread right below, following the threads it linked and seeing Rob's posts (and links), the issue was between finding the part or a workaround. As I note above, Gary's is the only viable workaround I saw, but getting the part is the best solution. Just dunno when/if that will happen.

 

I'm not going to let go of the signature until you do it...

 

Don't waste your time….. just ignore him, I will in the future. Apparently he doesn’t feel he needs any help. He’s got all the answers