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Diagnosing current spikes in only one amp?

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Old Oct 20, 2002 | 11:10 PM
  #1  
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From: Cincinnati, OH, USA
Unhappy Diagnosing current spikes in only one amp?

I narrowed down the "popping" sound I've been getting through my sub...

I discovered it's the sub amp, my Xtant A3001. I sucessfully drove my sub off my home stereo, tested the sub RCAs with my 4ch amp (fine), and switched power cables between the sub and 4ch amps. No matter what, the sub amp will not put out sound, and will pop randomly while lighting up the overcurrent light.

Since this amp has an internal voltage regulator, I'm wondering if it could be the culprit.

Does anyone know how I could diagnose/fix this myself, or anyone local with experience care to take a look?

I'm going to take it to a local audio place tomorrow to see if they'll look at it, but I'm wanting some feedback from you pros as well.

Last resort, ship it to Xtant for repair...

Thanks in advance.
Old Oct 21, 2002 | 07:26 PM
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Well, the shop I took it to doesn't work on amps, but they tested it and found the same thing... that it powers up fine but it won't output anything.

Any ideas?
Old Nov 8, 2002 | 05:35 PM
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Another update. I'm hoping LS1 Rulz or someone else with electrical experience can help me out.

The amp is not "bad." It still plays. Apparently there is something wrong around the "low bass cutout" switch. If I switch it back and forth I get a popping sound from the amp. Doing this will also make it eventually start playing again, if it has stopped.

I took the cover off the amp and sprayed the board and switch area with electrical contact cleaner, and it's still doing it.

Is there something else I can do to this switch to get it to stop making this popping sound and eventually causing the amp to not output any sound at all?
Old Nov 8, 2002 | 09:39 PM
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It's next to impossible to trouble shoot a problem like this by means of this forum. If I were to venture a guess though I would say you probably have a cold or broken solder joint somewhere. If the amp is out of warranty I'd go ahead and take it apart and reflow the solder joints for this switch you mentioned. Switches and RCA connections and other external controls (crossover *****, bass boost *****, etc.) that are soldered to the circuit board can fail over time.
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