jesus, someone said id need 3 or 4 batteries total for my setup....i THINK im gonna start with the 2 that i have and get that nice alternator and see how it goes from there.....thanks for the help with the install info also!!!
brian

 

Izod is correct, a 2nd battery is worthless, all it will do is make your system run a little longer until it dies, if you want to fix it correctly, you have to buy a more powerful alternator. Straight from a crutchfield article to shut the dummies up

"Can your vehicle handle the current demands of a multi-amp system?
Your vehicle's electrical system is designed to do one thing very well: supply the car's different components (headlights, air conditioner, etc.) with the needed current and voltage to operate properly.

Some cars' systems are designed for additional current loads (trailer towing packages, for example), but most of them are not. Luckily, most manufacturers design their cars' electrical systems with a reserve capacity that is well-suited to supplying power for a sound system. Look at the tag that is riveted or screwed to the side of the alternator. This tag tells you how much current (expressed in amperes or amps, for short) the alternator is capable of producing.

Most alternators are capable of producing 55-65 amps. This is adequate for sound systems packing up to 350 watts RMS. Most German automobiles have charging systems rated up to about 90 amps. This will be sufficient for systems of up to about 500 watts. Some Hondas, on the other hand, have alternators only rated for 35 amps. This will only support about 125 watts in amplifier power.

If you want more power than your alternator can service, you will have to consider having your alternator rebuilt for higher output. Or you can invest in a high-output aftermarket alternator. Sorry, we can't help you with this. Installing a second battery won't help. The only reason to do that is to play your stereo for long periods with the engine off. How you use your system can make a big difference in current draw.

The above discussion assumes that you will not be listening to your sound system at three-quarter volume all day long. Any system playing at one-third volume is drawing considerably less current than the same system at three-quarter volume, and may not need a charging system upgrade if the volume levels are kept reasonable.

On the other hand, you could be asking for trouble if you do keep the volume cranked up. If your system needs more current than the alternator can supply, it can grab current from the battery up to a point. Here are a couple of warning signs to look for:


your headlights dim in time to the music when you crank it up loud at night;
your bass sounds great when you first turn it on, but gets mushy and less powerful within a minute or so.

One easy, effective solution is installing a capacitor. Heavy-duty capacitors connect to the power cable (just before it reaches your amplifier) and act as a buffer zone between your amp and your car's electrical system. They store up a reservoir of power which can supply the amplifier's peak demands (like a kick drum beat) without having to get current from the battery."

 

Brian,

I have a small truck battery in the front and the yellow top in the rear. I only put that in because I usually play the car stereo a long time with the engine off. If you're not going to be doing that, you should be able to pump at least 400 watts without too much trouble. It's a bit of a strain on the stock alt when I've been pumping it for a while off and start the car up and drive with the A/C on, but so far, no probs!

------------------
96 Z, T-tops,M6,K&N FIPK,HPP+,160*,Borla Cat-back,52mm BBK TB, TB by-pass,Edelbrock shorty headers,Granatelli MAF,Accel Extreme wires,NGK TR55's,FireBall Coil
94 Taurus SHO(For sale in Toronto)
92 ZX-7

Audio:
Alpine Head Unit, MP3
Hifonics Z700 amp
Infinity Kappa 6.75" 2-ways
Kaption SPL 10
Kenwood KDC-C565FM 10 disc changer
Optima Yellow top in rear

 

ya, and if you beleive everything crutchfeild tells you, you have way too much money, they are a bunch of overpriced wannabe's that are just salemen.

if you want real info on stereos and subs visit www.termpro.com the official db drag website. these are the real competitors that have tried anything and everything to help their system, beleive me they know what helps and what doesn't.

more batts, if your running 2000 watts plus i'd suggest the alternator as well but cars that already have over 100amp stock alt's are cool with just adding a battery unless your dumping some serious wattage into your subs, like 2500-4000+ i know people running over 6000 watts to one sub, you can't fit enough alternators under you hood to keep up, batteries batteries and more batteries.

don't get me wrong, alt's help tons and are worth it, but if your system is under 2000 watts then your money is better spent on batts.

also you have less to worry about your car dying. i put a high output alt on my car, it died fairly quick and the only reason i made it home was cuz i have 3 batts in my car. lol, trust me, they are a good investment, at idle even with a ho. alt your lights will still dim, with extra batts it won't dim as easy.

 

hmmm....thats very interesting. so with 3000W rms to play with you are telling me that just getting an alternator (200 amp) is fine and thats all i need? thats kinda weird....i will probably run it anyways in case i ever compete and so that if i need to pound it while the car is off i can....thanks for all the help!
brian