Why does the amp need a constant hot wire?? I am trying to decide if I need to bypass my cutoff switch or not.

Another thing is, what if I put 2 speakers to 1 output. I have 6 speakers and 4 outputs from the amp

 

If your amp is stable to the speaker load you are providing, then there's no problem with hooking 2 speakers to 1 channel of an amp.

They don't really need a constant power wire, I run mine through a 200A relay; depending on the size of your amp and how much power it draws along with how much everything else pulls, your cut-off switch may not handle enough current.

 

Depending on your amp the constant hot may be needed. I know the newer alpine V12's have all electronic settings for bass, X-overs, and other stuff. Without the constant hot you will loose all your settings

 

It is an MA audio amp and has dials for settings and the switch is one of the big drag racing style switches

 

Whats wrong with running a constant hotwire to it? Just use an inline fuse, so if something happens then you're safe.

 

constant hot would be constant on also...may drain the battery.

when i got my new system it came with a remote on relay from crutchfield. it would trigger the amp on when the radio was on, you can feed the relay with the power antena wire or some head units have a remote wire for this purpose. now my new system with the mtx amp is smart enought to turn on when the rca has a signal so no realy was needed. pretty cool and easier to install.

you must fuse your power wire even if it is not constant, this is what will keep you from melting your car into a pile of ash. make sure the fuse is rated for the amp and the proper size wire is used for the amp current draw.

jeff

 

99% of the amps I know of out there use a remote lead for amp turn on....a constant hot wire is used purely for current demand...it won't keep your amp on and drain your battery.....IF you use a hot lead for your remote wire, then YES..it will remain on and drain your battery for obvious reasons...General rule of thumb is to fuse your constant hot wire for WATTS/10= required fuse....ie 500w/10 = 50amp fuse....

Any amp(s) drawing more than 400w individually will need a 4awg constant hot wire...anything over...say...750w will need 2awg....and 1000w will need 0awg....

 

This is not completely true, it all depends on how long your wire run is. There are charts out there to determine the proper wire gauge for the length of the run and how much current you are passing through the cable.

Back to the original topic though.

What is your amp fused at? Is that number greater or less than the rating on the switch that you are using? that's the easiest way to see if it will work.

And NO MATTER WHAT you need to have an inline fuse within 18" of the battery, or you can risk sending your entire car up in flames if something goes wrong.

And yes, all external amplifiers have the remote-turn-on input, but it does not always prevent battery drain. Guess how I know this... I'm running about 200A of amplifier draw through a Isolated Optima Yellow top battery. When I trun the car off, the yellow top and amplifiers stay by themselfs, isolated from the main car battery. If I go out a week or 2 later, the yellow-top has dropped a couple volts from when I shut the car off.

 

The original topic was does the wire always need to be hot?? I just want to know which sode of the cut off switch to put it on.

 

If you are talking about a drag racing cut off switch that you would use when locating the battery to the back of the car, it will be fine to have the power to the amp running through that switch. The only time you would not want it switched is if you amp had digital controls and relied on constant power to retain memory of your settings (x-over and gain). If you have dials/***** you'll be ok to have it switched.

 

Thats what I was looking for Timbr Thanks