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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 07:47 PM
  #1  
Knowklew's Avatar
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From: Bartlett, IL
Question Alternator questions

How much power does the stock alternator put out on a 2000 Z28?

If i run 1200-1500 watts for my subs will i need another alternator?

How accurate is this site for reference?
http://www.the12volt.com/wiring/recwirsz.asp

Will a 1,2,3, or 5 farad cap help?

Also, Will i have to upgrade the wiring from the alternator to the battery and the chassis and all that good stuff?

And anything else you can think that will help let me know. Im trying to figure out if i will need to do some serious upgrades before i do my install.

Last edited by Knowklew; Jan 14, 2004 at 08:02 PM.
Old Jan 15, 2004 | 06:19 AM
  #2  
97FormulaWS-6's Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Stock is 140,

You can get an upgraded alternator to ~200amps and that should cover you. Yes, upgrade all the wiring to atleast 4Ga, I'm running all 2Ga with the system below.

The Caps can be helpful, but add them later if you find you have a problem with lights dimming; and upgrading your battery to a Optima Yellow-top, or just adding another battery would more assistance than a cap.

I'm running 1600Wrms to 2 Kicker S12L7s, and 400 Wrms to my surround sound speakers, for a total of 2000Wrms in my system. I'm running a 200amp alternator, and 2 1 Farad caps and have no problems.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 03:48 AM
  #3  
nickz95camaro's Avatar
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From: Long Island, NY
if your intending to stick with 1500 watts, dont bother wasting your $$$ on a 200amp alternator.....your stock 140amp is fine. Just get a cap.
Old Jan 17, 2004 | 06:41 AM
  #4  
LS1 RULZ's Avatar
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From: OHIO Go Buckeyes!
I believe the 140 amp alts were only on LT1 F-Bodys. All the LS1's have 105 amp alts.
Old Feb 3, 2004 | 11:51 AM
  #5  
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From: Austin, Tx
I am looking for the same info about the stock amps that the stoch alt. puts out...... (on a 99 Z)

I am doing different stuff, but might need more power....
Anyone know how much the stock alt. puts out?? 98-02 ??
Old Feb 3, 2004 | 01:59 PM
  #6  
LanceJoker's Avatar
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From: Delmar,Delaware
Pretty sure the LS1 engines have 105 amp.
Old Feb 6, 2004 | 02:58 PM
  #7  
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Try what you have... Take your car for a drive -- if the battery discharges, you need help.. Otherwise, save your money.

My battery/charging system is completely stock. I don't know exactly how much current my amps draw, but they're about 1800 watts total.. and I have no problems at all..

Can you really drive around for two hours with your subs blasting 140-150 db? If not, you'll probably be fine too..
Old Feb 6, 2004 | 04:39 PM
  #8  
97FormulaWS-6's Avatar
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From: SLC, UT
Originally posted by GP-1
Try what you have... Take your car for a drive -- if the battery discharges, you need help.. Otherwise, save your money.

My battery/charging system is completely stock. I don't know exactly how much current my amps draw, but they're about 1800 watts total.. and I have no problems at all..

Can you really drive around for two hours with your subs blasting 140-150 db? If not, you'll probably be fine too..
The wattage of your amps doesn't matter too much, it's the current draw; what are your amps fused at? Most Class D subwoofer amps don't draw too much, on the other hand the Class A/B (Like I'm running) draw LOTS of power...

1600Wrms Class D amp: 60-80 Amps
1600Wrms Class A/B amp: 120-140 Amps

Between my 2 amps they are drawing upwards of almost 200 amps...
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 02:34 AM
  #9  
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From: Austin, Tx
Well, I am in the preliminary purchasing stage...
I have done some reasearch and have come up with a basic plan of attack...

The two amps that I am considering are the Alpine 540, and the PG Tantrum 400. Any opinions? How much amperage do they draw at a moderate volume?

I will be running them at the 4 ohm loads. (50Wx4)
(I will add a seperate sub and amp a little down the road...)

I will also be powering a fully functional PC through a 150W dc-dc PSU.

So, with this in mind, what would you do? Will the stocker handle the task? Would I be best getting a rewound alt? Should I just get a deep cycle battery (with the isolator) and supplement the existing electrical sys?
What does the car draw (in amps) with no extra load? (just plain car operation)

Theres my reasons for needing this input!

Thanks so far!
Old Feb 7, 2004 | 05:44 PM
  #10  
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The only way to know the current draw for sure is to meter it. The chances of you driving around and killing your battery are small. How's this? An old stereo of mine had the same four channel amp as you, with an Alpine 1507 for a sub amp... These amps pulled less current than the ones I have now (Xtants), and both cars had stock charging systems. Unless you're gonna sit without the car running for a long period of time, the battery isn't that important -- as long as you have a decent one... If you want to spend money on an upgraded alternator, go ahead -- it isn't gonna hurt anything. It's just been my experience that you can't (at least I can't) listen to music loud enough for long enough to kill the battery... and keep your hearing.. You can always upgrade the alternator at a later date (if you need to -- which I doubt).. Remember, what amps CAN draw is mush different than what they usually will.. Yea, you might be able to get a 200 amp draw, but are you really sitting in there listening to that?? That's a three second burp for an SPL competition..
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