Alpine direct connect question
#1
Alpine direct connect question
I have an alpine 7893 (?) and I currently have 2 KENWOOD 2 ch amps running front and back speakers...I have a Rockford 1000bd amp as well as a subthump amp rack on the way.....i want to eventually get a matching rockford 4 channel but cant afford it right now and want to clean up the trunk So I figure eliminate the 2 ch amps and use the headunit amp it is 60x4 anyway.
...heres the question...the wiring harness that came with the HU had a yellow wire with a box and a fuse on it saying "DO NOT CONNECT BEHIND DASH RUN DIRECTLY TO BATTERY" someone here told me thats only if im using the HU AMP...well i havent been up until now so I went out and bought DIRECT CONNECT cables to clean up the wiring but the direct connect cables dont have the fuse or box on the yellow...if I decide to use head unit amp is it really necessary to break this yellow wire and run it to the battery? and if i do should i splice in the fuse and box from the stock harness before hand????
...heres the question...the wiring harness that came with the HU had a yellow wire with a box and a fuse on it saying "DO NOT CONNECT BEHIND DASH RUN DIRECTLY TO BATTERY" someone here told me thats only if im using the HU AMP...well i havent been up until now so I went out and bought DIRECT CONNECT cables to clean up the wiring but the direct connect cables dont have the fuse or box on the yellow...if I decide to use head unit amp is it really necessary to break this yellow wire and run it to the battery? and if i do should i splice in the fuse and box from the stock harness before hand????
#2
The yellow wire should be connected directly to the battery if you intend to use the HU's internal amplifiers. This gives the current a low impedance path directly to the HU's amplifier section without having to go thru a bunch of extra wiring that may or may not be too small a gauge for the amount of current going thru it. If you are using outboard amps then just connect it to a 12v connections in the dash. The little box should have a fuse holder and a choke inside. The choke (coil) is there to help filter out any noise. If you add any wire to the yellow wire make sure it's after the box so it can stay close to the HU.
#3
Originally posted by LS1 RULZ
The yellow wire should be connected directly to the battery if you intend to use the HU's internal amplifiers. This gives the current a low impedance path directly to the HU's amplifier section without having to go thru a bunch of extra wiring that may or may not be too small a gauge for the amount of current going thru it. If you are using outboard amps then just connect it to a 12v connections in the dash. The little box should have a fuse holder and a choke inside. The choke (coil) is there to help filter out any noise. If you add any wire to the yellow wire make sure it's after the box so it can stay close to the HU.
The yellow wire should be connected directly to the battery if you intend to use the HU's internal amplifiers. This gives the current a low impedance path directly to the HU's amplifier section without having to go thru a bunch of extra wiring that may or may not be too small a gauge for the amount of current going thru it. If you are using outboard amps then just connect it to a 12v connections in the dash. The little box should have a fuse holder and a choke inside. The choke (coil) is there to help filter out any noise. If you add any wire to the yellow wire make sure it's after the box so it can stay close to the HU.
#4
Originally posted by CrAkD X 95TA
well thats the thing im not using the stock harness i got a direct connect harness which doesnt have the choke on it.....should I clip the yellow wire from the harness add the choke and fuse to it then run a wire from it directly to the battery?
well thats the thing im not using the stock harness i got a direct connect harness which doesnt have the choke on it.....should I clip the yellow wire from the harness add the choke and fuse to it then run a wire from it directly to the battery?
Originally posted by CrAkD X 95TA
also in another thread you probably didnt see it but inquired about ur front speaker baffles are you still making them and how much are you charging for them???
also in another thread you probably didnt see it but inquired about ur front speaker baffles are you still making them and how much are you charging for them???
#5
I had an Alpine HU in my old car and it DOES make a sound difference connecting to the battery. That said, you could also use the connection on the fuse box underthe Dash, that worked basically the same for me. And yes keep the choke etc intact!
#6
Originally posted by LS1 RULZ
Thats what I would do.
I can make a set of baffles with drip guards for you for $20 shipped. The only problem is that they are designed using the factory baffles from my '99 Trans Am.
Thats what I would do.
I can make a set of baffles with drip guards for you for $20 shipped. The only problem is that they are designed using the factory baffles from my '99 Trans Am.
dont ur baffles replace the stock ones tho????? cause im pretty sure the doors in the 95 and 99 are the same and i got some alpine type S 6.5s in there now and the magnet is literally UP AGAINST the plastic from the baffle and i want to put in some MB's i know they wont fit in those....
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