Ok so I was running the wire for my cd changer today and came a cross this.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/crazyp...d7.jpg&.src=ph

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/crazyp...8c.jpg&.src=ph

I don't have the radio that came with the car somebody rplaced it wit another GM radio.
I guess this is the amp for a monsoon radio?
So my question is how do I hook up my Kenwood radio?
I have to get rid of the amp right?
My car has 6 speakers the rear cargo speakers are 4inch the rest are 6.5 .
I know it's not good to run a radio that has a built in amp into another amp.
I disconected the amp and the radio does not play.
So I need some kind of way to by pass the amp right.
Ogg help.


Thanks,

Chris G.

 

Although I cannot speak on the Monsoon system, take a look at this thread. This is what works on the Bose system. Give it a shot, or you'll probably have to rerun wires for the speakers.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=380810

 

Thanks Chuck.
I hope it does not come to having to rewire all of the speakers.
I'm going to call the dealer up tomarrow and find out what I am dealing with for sure
I think worst thing I would have to do is make a plug that will go into the main amp harness and rerought the wires to the right speakers.
I will post back tomarrow when I find something out.
I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem.
The only thing I know for sure about the system is this it has an amp by the spair tire there is six speakers and the original radio was a CD unit.
With a possible remote.
Not 100% on the remote.

Thanks agine.

Chris G.

 

Crazy, it's nearly 3am here, so I may be editing this message later tomorrow (today) to make more sense.

The pic you provided has the same amp (even same part #) that my car had when I had the factory setup. I think it was the monsoon 200 watt system, 8 speaker setup.. 4 speakers up front, 2 in the sail panels, and 4 in the hatch (tweeter and woofers count separately ) .

With that in mind, you can do one of two things.

1) If you want to use the power from your aftermarket HU only to power all your speakers, you need to loop the wires in the connector.

Take a look at this page. http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/m.../AmpCamaro.htm

Although the connetor icon is missing in the camaro portion, it is the same image as in the transam (http://www.houston-f-body.org/tech/m...mpFirebird.htm )

The inputs of the respective speaker's go to the respective outputs... Be sure to maintain polarity.

2) Or you can leave things connected as is, and just use the monsoon amp.

This amp is driven by speaker level inputs, so you'll be ok driving it off the HU power.

I would just do #2, since the stock speakers are 2 ohm, and the monsoon amp is matched for this. If you drive 2 ohm loads with your HU, you may have issues burning out the HU. Most HU's are designed for 4 ohm loads, not 2.

 

Well I bought some new frontdoor speakers and the speakers that go in the sail panels.
Because I had my Kenwood Excelon KDC-X679 and I did not know that the apm was back there and the door speakers are cracking now.
My kenwood HU has 50 wats a channel.
so I know that's not good to run that to an amp.
What I want to do is this.
Put my kenwood in change the 2 door speakers and the sail speakers.
I would like to keep the 4inch hatch speakers hooked to the stock amp or I have a 25-25 amp I can use to power some new.
But If I use the amp I have I have no idea what to use to hook it up.
I have 2 rca's for a front amp and 2 rca's for a sub.
I have speaker level inputs on the apm I was thinking of using.
If you think that's the way to go.
I hope I did not confuse you.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks

Chris G.

 

Crazy, at least you used periods, commas, have have line feeds in your post

If you're going to add amp(s) for the front, sail and sub speakers, I'd say dump the 4" hatch speakers completely. You'll never hear them, and just waste time/money/effort hooking them up to an amp, or even HU power. Not worth it IMO.

A stock monsoon amp is not the greatest. At loud volumes it generates lots of distortion and is a good way to blow your speakers (new or old).

My suggestion is, wire in another set of rca's, so you have a total of 3 pairs (2 - Front, 2- rear, 1 or 2 - subs). Knukonceptz.com has a great set of cables - 4 channels in one actual cable (http://www.knukonceptz.com/ KRY4.6M Krystal Kable 4 Channel 6M Twisted Pair RCA Cable $29.99) Depending where you mount your amp(s) you may get away with 4m..

Get rid of anything gm delco/monsoon. You'll be happy as can be.

 

Well like I said I want to replace the fronts and the sail speakers.
And use my kenwood unit to run those with no amp.
So then I want to still keep the hatch speakers.
So as farr as I know in order to keep the "hatch speakers" I have to have an amp for them.
Because my kenwood can only handle the 4 speakers.
But the kenwood only had rca's for front and sub's.
So I can't use them for the "hatch speakers".
I am down the line going to put a 10 inch. sub in the drivers side so I have the rca's for that.
So what I wanted to know if I can use the stock amp an the "hatch speakers" and the Kenwood for the door and sail speakers?
And how to do it.

Thanks,
Chris G.

Sorry I know I'm being a Pain.

 

Realize that those 50 watts x 4 is the rated maximum power from the headunit. This is not a sustainable power output.

Your unit's rms rating is 22 watts. Powering speakers is fine with this amount of volume if you listen to low to low/moderate volume levels. At higher levels, depending on the efficiency of your speakers, you will get clipping and distortion, and likely blow another set of speakers.

You never want to be utilizing 100% of the power of any amp (built in or external). There should always be some margin - how much depends on who you ask. I prefer to have at least 30%. When you're dealing with higher power amps, it's not such a big deal. With HU power, since it's so limited to begin with, you gotta be careful.

Are you sure you only have 2 sets of rca's? According to crutchfield, you unit has 3 pairs.. If you look carefully on page 33 of the manual for your particular unit, the AUX rca's are actually your sub outputs. So you do indeed have 3 sets of rca's (though no aux inputs).

If you take the easy way out, you'll end up redoing the system later because you won't be happy with it. Do it right the first time and forget about it. Forget about the hatch speakers since you're putting in full range into the sail panels). Run your 3 sets of rca's, get the amp(s) installed. If you want, run new speaker wire to the doors (recommended), have a run of wire with lots of excess to your cubby hole for the sub, etc.

If you are only mounting one amp now, think ahead and make provisions for when you add a second amp. Leave adequate room for whatever size amp you're considering in the future.

When you get your sub box all you'll have to do is mount the woofer into it and install it in the car.

WARNING, be sure to insulate any exposed wires if they are attached to an amp but no speaker. Save your self the headache of blowing out an amp or a HU (don't ask..........)

Might take more time/effort/money, but the end result will be superior. Besides, tearing up the car to run new wires is a real pain.

 

Ok so now I'm lost.
Ok I will unplug the hatch speakers,replace the door and sail speakers.
And pull the delco Amp out and rewire the plug.
Right?
Then later I can add the 10 inch. sub with an amp later.
Then If I want to Amp the door and sail speakers I have to run new wires to the speakers.
Do I have it right?
Is there a plug I can use on the amp harness to rerought the wires?
So I don't have to cut any of the wires.

Thanks so much I really apreached the help.

Chris G.

 

I call this looping wires. For running off of HU power, I would not cut any wires from the harness. It looks 'ghetto' (more ghetto than the following method), and makes reverting back to stock more difficult.

Instead, figure out which pins need to be tied together. Using 16 gauge wire, trim appropriate length jumpers and tin the ends with solder so they are stiff. Tie the pins together, then tape all the wires securely. You can use a cable tie wrapped around between the two rows of wires. Tape it off and you're all set.

As stated before, you don't have to run new wires, but it's advisable, especially if you're running higher power speakers. You really should of ran speaker wires when you ran the amp power/rca's.....

I've found no plug. I'm sure somewhere something exists. It was cheaper and easier to just make my own jumpers and follow the diagram link I posted above. The diagram is relative to the amp, respective inputs and outputs need to be jumpered together.

For the fronts, decide which pair of wires you'll use, and tape off the other set. Jumper the right wires in the harness.

All of this is more difficult to describe in words than to actually do.


If you can't figure out which pins to connect to what, write back with how you think it should be wired, and I'll give my suggestions (or try searching.. There's been several posts on this in the recent past). Please do try to put an effort into understanding it. You'll feel good knowing you figure it out yourself.