calaban

This applies to 94 & 95 model Camaros. It may work on a 93 model and Firebird's/Trans Ams, but I don't know that for sure.

After having to replace my keyless entry with an aftermarket setup I figured I'd save some people the hassle I went through finding out what I needed to know to make it work.

It is not a complete rundown of the locking system, but does let you know what you're working with.

The passenger switch is the control switch. The Driver's switch piggy backs off of this one and for the purpose of wiring up an aftermarket setup you will not need to do anything with it. All the wires that you need are in the passenger side kick panel where the Factory Keyless Entry TRW receiver is located.

The box is black and about 5"x7" in size and has two plugs attached. A small plug with 3 wires.

Pink = Ignition 12v
Black = Hatch Release
Black/White = Data Link Connection

Then there's the 8 Wire Plug.

Tan = Unlock passenger side only
2nd Tan = unlock driver side only
Grey = Lock all to both solenoids
Orange = 12v constant (stays hot even with car off)
White = Illumination
Black = Ground
Orange/Black = Unlock to switch
Red/Black = Lock to switch


Of these, for the locks alone, you need to use Orange/Black, Red/Black, Grey, & Tan.

To make them work without the receiver you will need to connect the Grey to the Red/Black and the Tan to the Orange/Black. Your locks will now work without the receiver by using the switch.

There are two Tan wires with no real way to distinguish between them. One is to unlock the driver's door only and the other to unlock passenger side only. If you hook one of the tan wires up to the Orange/Black and it only unlocks the driver's door then you know the other is the unlock passenger door wire. If your aftermarket receiver can take advantage of this function, mine couldn't , then you can wire it up as such if not you must connect both tan wires together to unlock both doors.

The whole circuit is set up for both the lock and unlock wires to be grounded unless the switch is moved. Once the switch is moved the connection on one side or the other is broken. 12v is applied and the side with the broken connection and the solenoids move. The side that the 12v comes from determines if the doors lock or unlock. If the wires are connected as described above, pressing the switch to lock will cause the Orange/Black and the Tan wire will show 12v, press the unlock and the Red/Black and Grey wire will show 12v.

To make the switch work manually, disconnect the Orange/Black & Tan from each other while leaving the Red/Black & Grey connected. Then apply 12v to the Tan wire and the solenoid will move to the unlocked position. Likewise, if you separate the connection between the Red/Black & Grey and apply 12 volts to the Grey wire and the solenoids will move to the lock position, but only if the Orange/Black & Tan are still connected to each other.

To activate the hatch release you will need to apply 12v to the black wire of the 3 wire connector.

I hope this helps explain what you'll need to know when working on the factory keyless entry system, or installing an alarm/keyless entry combo. Even though I don't get into the wiring an alarm would require.

calaban

Here is a follow up to the write up. Once I installed the aftermarket keyless entry, the interior lights did not illuminate when I unlocked the vehicle like they should from the factory.

I assumed that this was just something that I'd have to live with, but after doing some research on a complete push button start system, I realized that the problem lies in the aftermarket keyless entry that I bought.

The aftermarket setup is not made to turn on the interior lights, only make the horn and/or exterior lights sound and/or flash.

The keyless entry I bought outputs a 12v current. After looking at the factory keyless entry schematics on Shoebox's site it shows that the factory setup grounds the illumination setup which powers on the RAP module. I will be installing a relay to make sure it all works like it did factory. My only problem with all this is I couldn't use the factory key fobs, but for around the 30 bucks all together it will have cost me to replace my broken factory keyless entry, it's worth it.