Stealth Z

I'm looking at suspension goodies, already ordered BMR SFCs, BMRs "Race Only" LCAs, relocation brackets, BMR STB, and adj panhard. . .

I'm interested in BMRs "Dragrace Anti-Roll bar" seems pretty heavy duty and it doesn't use endlink bushings like conventional rear sway bars. My question is, is this just a drag item or would I benefit very well from this in a handling aspect as well???

Any other suggestions for a handling aspect? I already have a spohn torque arm. And plan on gettin QA1/HAL shocks, I was sold on those vs Koni because the HALs can be made VERY stiff or soft. . . And I understand I might be changing springs for drag and autoX. I also have on my "wish list" K member with Lower and Upper A arms. . .

Dr.Mudge

The drag anti roll bar is for drag ONLY, if anything you would first REMOVE a rear bar before locking up the rear end with a stiff one.

HALs verse Koni? HALs belong in drag, Koni has thier own drag shocks as well, but HALs aren't handling shocks by design. Who says Koni's can't handle stiff springs? I run them with 600#/140-160# and am not on full settings, if you wanted to revalve them for 1000# springs then you could certainly do that.

Stealth Z

I didn't think in a handling aspect you would want body roll?? So I wouldn't want a sway bar? Now I'm a little confused. . .

Oh and for the HALs, from what I can tell they are back breakingly stiff when put on the higher settings for stiffness. Anyone else go any thoughts on these?

LPEdave

Here's a good write-up on rollbars (and a good site in general for handling), that might help explain it: http://www.turnfast.com/tech_handlin...antiroll.lasso

Dave

94bird

The main problem with the BMR drag racing rear bar is you have no need for anywhere near that amount of roll resistance in the rear for good, balanced handling. Most people find that they will use either their stock 19mm rear bar, or at most a 21mm rear bar if they have their chassis setup properly.

The huge rear bar is used for drag racing to get more weight transfer to the rear on launch. This isn't a problem when your steering is pointed straight ahead. More weight transfer equals more traction to a point. However, if you're cornering, you'll find yourself doing unintentional donuts quite fast.

BTW, I'm interested in a lighter k-frame myself, but I have no data to tell me that the BMR unit is designed for road racing or autoxing. The loads in this type of useage are very much different than for drag racing, where it's mostly only about getting as much weight off the front end as you can.

Dr.Mudge

Roll bars REDUCE the independance of the suspension, which is already to some degree handicapped not being an IRS to start with. So there has to be a balance that is struck...

Many cars with IRS natively will remove a rear bar altogether, or some don't even come with them at all, like my 73, IRS and no rear bar.