Ok, I have a 94 LT1 Camaro and I want to improve the handling (for autocross, and just general purpose). I am allready planning on getting some weld in subframe connectors pretty soon since I think they are a good all purpose mod.

After that what are the most cost vs handling gain effective suspension mods to do? I work at Advance Auto Parts so I can get many things at a 20% discount (which doesnt always turn out to be the cheapest price...but usually does).

I can get KYB AGX's for $80 ea (front) and $70 ea (rear), and can get the *rear* GR-2's for just $15 ea if they are better than the stockers by much. BTW: I have the orange shocks...which I think are the better ones, but I am not sure?

Also I just found out I can get a set of Sportline 1.8" lowering springs for $190! Although I doubt that comes with relocation brackets.
So how much are relocation brackets anyway, and are they hard to install? I have done struts before and didnt think they were complicated...

So what should I do first? Should I skip those all togeather for now and go with sway bars or what?

Thanks for any advice!

 

The "orange" shocks are the standard issue deCarbon shocks that come with our cars. As far as everything else goes, I feel this would be best answered by Sam, as he seems to be the resident suspension guru .

 

First, be careful about the subframe connectors... They will toss you way out of stock and into SM or CP - in those classes you will be forced to run against very modified cars. Before you start modding your car, decide what class you want to run in.

First I gotta point out that one of the best "mods" is a set of good tires. No matter what you do to the suspension, if the tires won't give you any grip, you'll never be able to use the other mods.

That said, in stages last spring, I made the following modifications to my suspension specifically for autocross (Sam's recommendations):

1) 35mm Front Sway Bar
2) 3rd Gen Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
3) Koni SA Front Shocks

I added them in this order and ran them a few weeks in between. The most dramatic change was the sway bar. The turn-in was amazingly crisp when compared to stock. Then I put in the rear shocks - this didn't make a huge change, but settled the car (the only way to describe it). Then the fronts went in and the package was complete. The car was very good at turn in and could do "switchbacks" with amazing quickness.

 

most noticable in the curves for me was my 32/21mm solid sway bars from BMR...$325 shipped hard to beat.

the SFC made a difference in the feel of the car, but didn't notice much in the curves...just in the all around driving feel itself.

tires made a huge difference. i use to be able to feel the tires give out, causing me to drift across the road in a curve...now i feel like i'm planted and that the tires outperform the car's capabilities.

firehawk SZ50's

 

Ok, thanks guys.

So which is more important to do first....front or rear?

I was aware that SFC's put you in a higher class in some racing events. I and not *too* concerned (now) with winning in the class, because I am a beginner, and probably wouldnt win anyway. However that may change as I get into it.

So as far as shocks/struts what do you guys think of the KYB AGX's? It seems those are the only ones directly available to me from Advace...I have heard they are really good before, but that was mostly on imports...

And would dropping the car give much of a handling advantage or is that mostly appearance? And how much do relocation brackets cost?

*Edit* I just remembered the springs are Eibach, if that makes any difference. I assume they are pretty good right?

 

I would still wait on the SFC's. They bump you into SM which is alot harder to win using F-body than FS or ESP (where F-bodies are arguably the car to have). That is unless you think you can beat a superchared M3 on race tires

 

I believe the stock classes allow you to add a safety device, like a roll bar. It's funny how much rigidity that adds to chassis.

 

Next summer I may be (drag) racing a supercharged MCoupe...that is assuming it holds togeather till then though.

As it stands right now I think he has the faster car, but cat-less exaust is going on my car soon, and that ought to make it a closer race...

 

The “Sportline” would not be the Eibachs to buy IMO. I would not consider them streetable, and your car will handle worse unless you make extensive additional suspension modifications to optimize for that much drop. I have no experience with KYB shocks, but could not recommend them for road racing based on many other’s experiences. If you want a compromise for drag and AX, then maybe.

Trying to line up future distant mods will probably waste your time. As you gain experience AXing, you will understand more for yourself, and will not need blind faith in others opinions. Get a lot of seat time, and think hard. Really. You might do a search on some of the topics you are interested in, and read. But, even that reading will be more valuable to you as you gain experience; seat time.

Bob

 

In 3 sentences you have summed up what many of us try and say in paragraphs and in my case never learned till too late.

Don't fret over the future
Get seat time
Pay attention ... learn
Think for yourself
Ask questions to validate

Damn good job, there Bob!

 

The only contribution I can make is to say that the most cost effective mods are the ones you only have to buy once.

 

I think Keith O nailed the most cost effective mods to your suspension. The most cost effective mod overall is seat time though.

After Keith's suggestions come spring rate increases from something like the Eibach Prokit, LG G2 springs or even better, some Ground Control coilovers.

An aftermarket panhard rod will also really firm up your rear end in turns.

 

Ok, so 3rd gen HD Bilsteins will work fine?
Why are the neccessarily better than KYB adjustables? (not trying to deny anything...just asking)

As for the sway bar, where could I get a good price on one, and what is the best for the money? And how much can I expect to pay for it?

As for the springs...I can get the Eibach Prokit for $209 (tax included) from work. So I think I will get those eventually.

But I do want to ask why the 1.8" sportline is considered so extreme, and unstreetable??? I realize that there is such a thing as too stiff a suspension, but I didnt think that those would be that severe.
I dont care much about ride quality, just as long as I can make it into parking lots without having to go 1mph on the way in, and it handles good.
I will probably eventually go with the Prokit, but I just wanted to know why the sportline is too extreme (partly just to expand my knoledge)

 

^^^^ Ehhh??? ^^^^

 

Dolby109 -

You will find shock research to be the most frustrating mod you can check into. Everyone will provide a preference and there are definitely more common preferences, but in the end no one can really tell you why. I actually gave up on shock research.

Shocks do two things: adjust the spring action though dampening (during compression) and rebounding (during uncompmression). Some are adjustable for rebound and others are adjustable for both rebound and dampening. IMO, if the KYB's are in the same dampening range as, say, the Koni DA's then the only real difference can be cost and quality of materials. I have never seen anyone on a site like this make the case for a given shock because of it's specific rebound and dampening rates while quoting the rates. In fact, I'd bet that almost no one knows the rates of their own shocks (myself included).

Shocks are about the only mod I have ever seen where you really end up buying on feel and other's opinions.