Ok, I was reading another post here and saw a company selling an UPPER Pan Hard Rod. I kinda laughed and thought they were clueless calling it that, although it is a chasis brace. It runs above the PHR (which connects the center of the Driver's-side axle tube to the passenger side chasis using a bracket that drops down from the body a bit).

This upper brace is bolted onto the passenger-side chasis bracket above the PHR pickup point, and runs laterally up to the driver-side chasis.

Anyone removed their brace and tryied boxing it in with a MIG welder and some mild steel? Being just a brace I'm wondering how much this would affect the car, seems like it couldn't hurt... unless I'm missing something here.

Anyone messed with this? seems like a good place to "make that extra effort" while I'm under the car installing a PHR.

 

and yes, I assume boxing-in a suspension piece, if caught, would push you out of a stock-class in a autocross environment... although I don't race for anything but fun anyway... heck I plan on a C5 rotor upgrade so it isn't like I'm trying to keep it "pure factory racing" or anything.

 

About 7 years ago, I bought a boxed panhard brace by Granatelli. I purchased it from Summit Racing. Can't tell you if it made a difference because I replaced a bunch of stuff along with it. As I recall, it's not just a boxed stock unit, the whole thing seemed to be made out of thicker metal. I have some pictures if your interested.

Kurt

 

I'm interested.

SJWalker@hotmail.com



I could probably weld-up one on my own as long as the passenger side attchment point is easy to make. The driverside in the GM Service Manual looks to be just a 3-bolt plate which merges into a stamped steel brace. I'll have to crawl under the car to specifically check it out this weekend.

thanks.

 

Steve,
Great discussion and very good questions on the PHR mounts. I run a 96Z in CP. Ron VerMulm of R&S Racing helped me set mine up. We lowered the car about 2" front and rear. The bar I bought came with a bracket to weld to the bottom of the rearend mount and instructions to drill a new hole in the body/chassis mount. My bar is pretty much level with the car at rest. We did raise the rear spring rates some. With the 12" slicks we can run in CP, this car often surprises me with its grip. Sometimes I just can't believe she's still clawing the pavement like she does. What fun! Anyway, my contribution is that I have cracked or broken both mounts a couple of times each. I finally had a local weld shop box and gusset both mounts substantially and have run a full season with no more failures. It's hard on times and tires when the mounts crack or move, so do it right the first time!
regards,
Cal Ralrick
Nebraska Region SCCA

 

I too have used the Granettelli upper Panhard Rod (brace), since 1998. It is boxed and much stronger than stock. I don't know if it made a major difference, but it certainly could not hurt, considering that area definitely appears to need better bracing.

 

Now you have me worried...... Can you better describe the areas of failure, or send me some pictures of the areas that you had reinforced?

Thanks,
Kurt