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How hard is the HD Torsen install? I was thinking about getting one (either SLPs or a T2R). Is it easier than a gear swap since you yank everything out? I would probably have a garage do it but was wondering what Im getting myself into

Thanks!
--Kevin

Sam Strano

Gee, I had no idea this was going on....

I'm not going to get into the middle of this beyond explaining why I use Random Tech arms vs. the others:

In no particular order.....

1. It's stiffer, and really helps the brake hop problem in the LS1

2. It's lighter than a stock arm, even while being stronger.

3. It doesn't mount to the floorpan, and yes I have seen with my own eyes cars with torn-up (badly) floorpans from TA's that mount there

4. It's got adjustable pinion angle. Originally I wanted to so as NOT to mess up the angle that worked with the stock arm. Later, I experimented and found that a little down angle helped some without an increase in corner exit understeer. Having adjustment is important to me, not all cars are the same, and even ride height changes will cause pinion angle changes.

5. It's a really, really nicely constructed part and doesn't not break the bank @ $325!

6. I like the fact it uses a bushing in the front. Not a solid connection to transmit forces and torque into the tailshaft housing. Quieter too. And bind is a non-issue if you use a proper lubricant on the bushing (not that it's hard to lube a year after the install).

7. The fact it's a stock length arm. No big instant center changes, no big change in handling. And the longer arms are better on the brakes too. BTW, Herb Adams book... "Making the torque arm too short will obviously cause severe angles and limit the free motion of suspension in the vertical direction" I can attest, this is true and I've seen it happen...... Ever wonder why some arms are to be used with a 85 pound rear spring??? A stock length arms means that spring rates and such are easily figured. No re-engineering the entire system.

8. I don't need any whiz-bang Whoozits, anti-coupling, short gizmos. I could routinely leave on good concrete surfaces @ 4000 rpm. And that's with very stiff sidewall autox tires, and NO LCA relocation brackets (and yes the car was lowered....).

I CORNER1

The install of the HD Torsen was 1 of the few things that I did not do myself. I had a friend who owns a performance mod shop install the gears and Torsen for me.

The Torsen is essentially a direct swap posi carrier for the Auburn. I noticed markedly improved response from it. At the time I purchased the HD Torsen from SLP, I was not aware of the T2R with preload clutches. If I had known, I would have spent the extra bucks for the T2R instead for the extreme cases where the inside rear tire lifts.

I CORNER1

Prior to buying the Spohn, I contacted Unbalanced Eng about their de-coupled TA (similar approach that Herb Adams - SLP had a few years ago, but hopefully better design). They sent me a photo of their prototype and it looks like it needs alot of work before going to market. It looks like a slapper traction bar (complete with rubber snubber) attached to a longer bar with all kinds of compound bends. I decided to go with Spohn and reinforce the weld points to the KBDD subframe connectors and the floorpan.

I CORNER1

Just for curiosity, what was the nature of the floorpan failures that you have seen with tunnel-brace mounted TAs? (Crash impacts, floorpan bracket crush on acceleration, floorpan bracket separation on deceleration, broken TA front mounts - banging around, etc).

ZBLKHELLRZR

Well after serious consideration I broke down and bought the LG unit. Couldn't pass up 25% off so it came down to the price of a Random minus the adjusting aspects of one. I'm pleased because I was tired of adjusting for different events and what not. Should be here in another 2 wks since they sold out so mine is being pwd coated as I type this.

Sucks that you can't use both loops on the spohn too it's a good thing I didn't go that route. I still have my 2nd loop so I'm gonna see about welding it to the LG piece.

Thanks for all the help too!

mitchntx

You won't be disappointed.

I read some misinformation about the front mount on an LG TA in this thread. An LG design front mount comes with the TA. It uses a high quality heim joint, which allows 3D movement. It's a direct bolt in.

It uses all the stock mounting points, rides in the stock location, is lighter than stock and freaking WORKS!

As far damage seen from other brands, a friend had a Spohn, bolted to the floor pan. He hit some road debris and it bent the mounting points all the hell, including his floor pan.

For track only, it's probably a great arm.

I CORNER

Thank you. Crash impact is the only probable failure mode that I could imagine for the Spohn design!!! Ripping your undercarriage is not a fair assessment of the strength of a TA.

That is why I chose NOT to purchase the Long Tube Header Spohn design TA, which hangs way too low. With the new standard LT1 Spohn TA, it hangs no lower than my Kenne Brown Double Diamond Subframe connector bracing system and is higher than 2 points in the exhaust and the front crossmember.

ZBLKHELLRZR

I've seen the design for the LG mounting point and that's what sold me. They keep that real hush but a friend shot me a pic and it sold me.

Spohn's arm was like my old arm I broke but I had the slider bar instead of their current setup. Great arm but I just figure I try something a little different. Oh and I use to catch the mounting bar all the time on jack up roads. But w/ any TA that has that as it's mounting will do the same depending how low you are. I'll be putting the LG safety loop on there as well and it'll be just like old times..... I just have to be careful on bumps.

steve_c

Just a point about the LG arm, the mount which is a spherical
bearing, not a heim joint, will deteriorate over time and will
have to be replaced.

I have a friend with an LG arm, his spherical mount is all worn
down and clacks creating alot of play.

To take this off will require a hacksaw and to weld a new one
on.

Nothing too serious but kind of annoying.

Steve

mitchntx

Good point Steve.

I use a product called DGF123 to keep all my sherical joints lubricated.

You can get it at any NAPA store for about $5.

It is a spray on graphite lubricant. The propellent is alcohol based which dries and leaves a really nice coating of dry graphite.

I've been open tracking and daily driving my LG TA and poly/rod LCAs for almost 2 years now. Not a peep out of them ...

But when they get dirty they will wear out fast.