For the lazy folk:
Below basically just asks what are the best suspension upgrades without pouring tons of money in it? Bang for the buck items.

For the really helpful and considerate folk:
OK guys - here's the deal - I am about to go to work on a factory 3.4 V6 Camaro...Going to put a 383 LT1 in it, along with complete LS1 front brake setup/rear end hub to hub. This is about as far as I am going to take that probably, for now at least, as I don't want this car to be a total money pit.

What I want in the end, is too sit as low as possible, and be as functional as possible. I plan on running long tubes, with Dynomax Bullets bolted to them, so there goes some ground clearance. In the looks department, I like the way the Eibach ProKit? sits these cars.

What I need to know, is what are the best things to upgrade/add? I don't know a lot about suspension, so take it easy on me. I know that I think my car handles good now, but I also know that it can handle much better. I would like to do some AutoX more so than drag racing. Driving is too much fun to go in a strait line.

I will be ruinning 18" wheels, so that will help some I know. Help out the suspension n00b!

Thanks.

 

Here's what I've done to my '97 Trans Am:
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- convertible X-brace, K-frame bracing, and hatch bracing... this was free, mine's a vert Although I know hard-top guys that use at least the X-brace and notice it ties things together a bit better.
- helmet
- Hotchkis STB (noticeable improvement on the vert )
- SFC's (I have KBDD's welded on) - night and day improvement
- LCA relocation brackets (welded on... now the LCA's point DOWN instead of UP on the axle )
-LS1 brake upgrade (w/C5 calipers). I plan on going to C5 13" rotors in the future though.
- QA1 rodends on a custom aluminum PHR (you could make this yourself most likely... it's rod ends, 2 jam nuts and an aluminium tube tapped for 3/4-16 threading. Get a 1.125" or larger OD on the tube, and 11/16" ID (which means you don't need to drill the ends... just tap/thread it ).

Here are my plans:
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- Koni SA up front, on the lower perch for 1" drop
- Bilstein 3rd gen shocks out back, w/coil isolator removed for 3/4" drop
- box in the Rear Tie Rod Brace (it runs from chasis to chasis above the PHR, just a brace really )
- C5 rotors using Bob's bracket on my stock LT1 spindles (while the LS1 spindles I have are on the TA.


Basically the goal is to lower it 1", get decent shocks, brakes and bracing on a budget. Beyond that will be a 6-pt roll bar, 12-bolt rear w/LCA brackets, maybe PHR lowering brackets, and an Eaton 800# preload posi (Torsen doesn't make a T2R for 12-botls or 9" rears... and won't, I've asked).

Oh yeah, I have a Street Twin clutch as well... and truw ZR1 wheels on the way (I'll wrap'm in Eagle F1 GS rubber for now, got a great deal on them, but I'll keep my 16" rims for Drag radials at the track, and maybe autocross... I don't know well they'd work for autocross in comparison to 315's and 275's ).

 

my point?
forget the springs and just get the Koni SA's instead... then you can lower it 1" with stock springs and yank the spring isolator in the rear

I need to talk this over with Sam S. sometime, but from what guys here have said that seems to be the ticket for a moderate drop.

The other hot set-up is to get a 35mm FRONT sway bar. I know it sounds weird that this would decrease understeer (opposite of common rule of thumb), but it helps limit camber loss up front and as a result usually means MORE grip than less. The stock 19mm rear bar is fine, although some cars came with the 21mm option and could do with a 19mm bar instead.

35mm bar, Koni SA's, and Bilstein rears. that's my plan.

 

Thank you Steve for the most productive and descriptive post(s)!

I was totally unaware that just some shocks could lower my car.
I would definitely like to put Koni's on it too! Thanks again for the info!

 

Koni SAs have this ability, I dont think the DAs do, I dont recall seeing any adjustment on my seat on the DA.

 

Trust me, you don't want tot sit as low as possible..check out the pics in the sig...I'm running the pro-kit and BMR lower a-arms..the total drop is 3" in the front...look how much room I have for my FLP's...none


You don't wanna spend too much money so this is the way to go...forget the pro-kit....get Hals in the front, shocks and springs....Hals in the rear, but chop the springs 1 inch...BMR has the best line for it's value..check out www.stealthperf.com Mike there is a suspension king....like myself


It really depends what you wanna do with the car...with a 383, you'll just wanna go straight....you'll need to upgrade your rear sway bar to get a good lanch.....also SFC, LCA's....the list is never done...be prepared to spend alot of money


As I did...good luck...PM if you have any question


Mike