sway bar decision - which set up is best?
#1
sway bar decision - which set up is best?
My Z is a daily driver, however not driven everyday - i have another beater for winter and work. I don't autocross, but i love to hug the curves.
Which sway bar set up is best for my current suspension set-up? I've heard you guys mention a 35mm for the front, but that sounds like it would kill my ride comfort.
And stock or 21mm rear?
thanks.
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors
Which sway bar set up is best for my current suspension set-up? I've heard you guys mention a 35mm for the front, but that sounds like it would kill my ride comfort.
And stock or 21mm rear?
thanks.
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors
#2
FWIW, I am running the Addco 32mm in the front w/ ES poly bushings&endlinks and a 1LE BMR 21mm w/ Prothane poly bushings&endlinks. It rides a little stiffer, but not uncomfortable. I do not autox it nor do I drag race it, but for a fair weather weekend car, it rides awesome and 'hugs' the curves.
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1996 Blue-Green Chameleon Formula
1of70 Chameleon Formulas for 1996
2000 S10 LS 4.3L 4x4 PickUp
JeffsWorld
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1996 Blue-Green Chameleon Formula
1of70 Chameleon Formulas for 1996
2000 S10 LS 4.3L 4x4 PickUp
JeffsWorld
#3
First of all this is a topic worth performing a search on. You will get a ton of info in past posts.
I have mentioned before that I like the front 35mm bar. I am a definate proponent. I do not think it is overkill. For street driving I would go with a 21mm rear bar. This will give the car a flatter cornering attitude. However keep the stock bar. If you go autocrossing you WILL want to swap back.
Ride quality should stay descent. At one point in time I had Hotchkiss lowering springs with a 32mm front bar.
I have gone to a 35 front with eibach race springs on a coilover setup with Strano Bilsteins. I am lowered 2" which is alot. The shocks have been shortened though. Point of all this is that the car rides better lowered 2" with -2.1 camber and a 35mm bar than it did with Hotchkiss springs and a 32mm bar.
I have mentioned before that I like the front 35mm bar. I am a definate proponent. I do not think it is overkill. For street driving I would go with a 21mm rear bar. This will give the car a flatter cornering attitude. However keep the stock bar. If you go autocrossing you WILL want to swap back.
Ride quality should stay descent. At one point in time I had Hotchkiss lowering springs with a 32mm front bar.
I have gone to a 35 front with eibach race springs on a coilover setup with Strano Bilsteins. I am lowered 2" which is alot. The shocks have been shortened though. Point of all this is that the car rides better lowered 2" with -2.1 camber and a 35mm bar than it did with Hotchkiss springs and a 32mm bar.
#4
I have the Eibach Pro-kit and have just had the alignment set at -1 camber. The alignment alone made a great impact on the handling.
I am a little concerned about going to a 35mm bar, althought i am sure i would love the handling. Maybe a 32mm.
What are some good brands at reasonable prices? Does GM Performance Parts make them? I do get discounts on these parts, and it would be nice to take advantage of this.
Thanks for the replys.
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors
I am a little concerned about going to a 35mm bar, althought i am sure i would love the handling. Maybe a 32mm.
What are some good brands at reasonable prices? Does GM Performance Parts make them? I do get discounts on these parts, and it would be nice to take advantage of this.
Thanks for the replys.
------------------
1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors
#5
I really think you would be happy with a 35mm bar. However if you do get a 32mm front go with an Addco solid bar. These are available from Strano Performance Parts. I think they are a sponser. Nearly all of my suspension parts have been bought from them. They will set you up with the parts you need.
Also if you go with the Addco 32mm solid stick with the stock bar in back. Trust me here. Sam will tell you the same thing. Give them a call.
Also if you go with the Addco 32mm solid stick with the stock bar in back. Trust me here. Sam will tell you the same thing. Give them a call.
#6
"I've heard you guys mention a 35mm for the front, but that sounds like it would kill my ride comfort."
Because of the way the swaybar is mounted it affects ride only if you hit a bump with one wheel, not both. That reduces the ride penalty quite a bit. There was no noticeable difference in ride when I went from a 32 to a 35.
Because of the way the swaybar is mounted it affects ride only if you hit a bump with one wheel, not both. That reduces the ride penalty quite a bit. There was no noticeable difference in ride when I went from a 32 to a 35.
#7
I love my ST 35/25 combo, and it's a "DD" (even though not driven every day, it could be). Road harshness didn't increase at all. As mentioned, going over a bumb with one hill is more noticable, but the car is much more stable.
I'm sure it'll be a new car again once I get new springs and custom-valved shocks.
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Solomon
What's life all about?
Silver '95 Camaro Z28 M6: 14.3 @ 98.7 - With problems, but will improve!
White '90 Cadillac deVille: 16.3 @ 81.4 - Not likely to change soon.
Learn the basics of tuning your OBDI LT1 PCM!
I'm sure it'll be a new car again once I get new springs and custom-valved shocks.
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Solomon
What's life all about?
Silver '95 Camaro Z28 M6: 14.3 @ 98.7 - With problems, but will improve!
White '90 Cadillac deVille: 16.3 @ 81.4 - Not likely to change soon.
Learn the basics of tuning your OBDI LT1 PCM!
#8
My concern is potholes, railway tracks, sewers etc. I have poly bushings, and it hits pretty hard already. But i would love the handling of larger sway bars.
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors; -1 camber alignment
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors; -1 camber alignment
#10
Yes i do. I thought the 'racier' shocks, like Bilstein, would make it ride harsher because of the stiffer valving. Am i wrong?
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors; -1 camber alignment
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors; -1 camber alignment
#11
You would think. However the "sportier" shocks generally have less compression and more rebound. In the front anyway.
Also the damping curves allow the shocks to give better steer characteristics and wheel control charecteristics yet still soften the intitial blow.
So the Bilsteins or Konis will soften that intial blow.
I have driven a mustang and ridden in several camaros with konis and the it seems the bilstein has a smother ride. At least my Strano Bilsteins.
My recomendation to you is to get a set of revalved Bilsteins from Strano and a 32 and stock bar or better yet a 35 21 bar combo. Like I said earlier though if you are going to go autocrossing keep the stock bar.
Also the damping curves allow the shocks to give better steer characteristics and wheel control charecteristics yet still soften the intitial blow.
So the Bilsteins or Konis will soften that intial blow.
I have driven a mustang and ridden in several camaros with konis and the it seems the bilstein has a smother ride. At least my Strano Bilsteins.
My recomendation to you is to get a set of revalved Bilsteins from Strano and a 32 and stock bar or better yet a 35 21 bar combo. Like I said earlier though if you are going to go autocrossing keep the stock bar.
#12
Does Strano Performance have an internet site? I can check that out and maybe email them.
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors; -1 camber alignment
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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors; -1 camber alignment
#13
I think it's www.stranoparts.com
Regarding bar size vs ride comfort, it's generally more comfortable (or less uncomfortable, depending on your point of view) to control your roll angle with stiffer bars rather than with stiffer springs. Over a two-wheel bump hit exactly head on the size of the bar has essentially zero effect on the ride. As you hit the same bump from an increasingly greater angle the ride gradually deteriorates. But stiffer springs nail you with the full effect all the time. Hence GM's normal use of relatively large bars and soft springs (though some of you may remember the complaints concerning the harsh ride of the early 3rd gen Z28 with its 549/182 spring rates).
Norm
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1979 Malibu, 355, 5 speed, cornering tweaks, some other stuff
2001 20th Anniversary Maxima, 5 speed
[This message has been edited by Norm Peterson (edited June 12, 2002).]
Regarding bar size vs ride comfort, it's generally more comfortable (or less uncomfortable, depending on your point of view) to control your roll angle with stiffer bars rather than with stiffer springs. Over a two-wheel bump hit exactly head on the size of the bar has essentially zero effect on the ride. As you hit the same bump from an increasingly greater angle the ride gradually deteriorates. But stiffer springs nail you with the full effect all the time. Hence GM's normal use of relatively large bars and soft springs (though some of you may remember the complaints concerning the harsh ride of the early 3rd gen Z28 with its 549/182 spring rates).
Norm
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1979 Malibu, 355, 5 speed, cornering tweaks, some other stuff
2001 20th Anniversary Maxima, 5 speed
[This message has been edited by Norm Peterson (edited June 12, 2002).]
#14
That is there web address.
There will not be anything on the website about them though. Pricing maybe. They are sold as a custom application. Based on your spring rate, roll bars, tire size, use-street/open tracking/autocross, etc.
You will not be disapointed trust me. And it is my opinion that if you are going to stick with a single spring rate you are bettern off with the Bilsteins. The Monotube design is more sensitive than a twintube design Like the Koni. Plus the damping curve works better with controlling wheel movements and providing desireable steer characteristics.
There will not be anything on the website about them though. Pricing maybe. They are sold as a custom application. Based on your spring rate, roll bars, tire size, use-street/open tracking/autocross, etc.
You will not be disapointed trust me. And it is my opinion that if you are going to stick with a single spring rate you are bettern off with the Bilsteins. The Monotube design is more sensitive than a twintube design Like the Koni. Plus the damping curve works better with controlling wheel movements and providing desireable steer characteristics.
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