I am attempting to swap the front springs on my 96 Formula.

I had been told that in attempting to remove the upper shock mount that I might ruin the shock, so I purchased a set of take-off stock shocks.

I got the front driver's side up, got the shock/spring assembly out of the car and got the spring compressed to relieve pressure off of the upper mount and retaining nut.

I gave the nut about 5 treatments with PB Blaster on Saturday before returning to it on Sunday morning.

I do not have air tools. I do not currently own a pair of vice grips.

No matter what I tried, anytime I turn the top retaining nut, the shaft in the shock turns as well. I used a 7mm open end wrench and that helped *a little*.

After even the little wrench wouldn't work when wedged against something to keep it from moving, I gave up and put the car back together.

Now I have a rattling in the suspension in that corner. I'm not 100% on where it's coming from as yet.

I'm thinking of trying to get a set of vice grips and try again, and I've also considered a nut splitter. Other than those two things, I can't think of any other options.

Can anyone give me any other ideas?

 

When I removed the passenger side, we had to take an air chisel to get that one off.

 

Once you get the shock/spring assembly out, compress the spring and take it to a shop with an impact wrench. I doubt they would charge you much (if anything) to use it for a few seconds.

If the nut isn't rusted to the shaft too badly it should come right off. If not then just cut the shaft, since you have replacements there's no use trying to save the old parts.

When you reassemble all the new stuff coat that nut with antisieze, grease, or something to keep it from rusting together again.

 

Thanks folks!

I think I'm going to give this another shot this weekend. I can't stand the rattling.

 

Yeah you'll have to drill, cut, or chisel it off. When you put the new shocks on put a little grease or silicone in the top mount to seal out moisture.

 

I have had VERY good luck with using a cup type wire wheel in a drill motor.

I spray the threads down with WD40 or similar, wire wheel the threads, clean with more penetrating lube.

I then back the nut off a turn or so and retighten slightly, clean the thread. Get a couple more turns, retighten slightly and clean the threads. Repeat till the nut comes off.

The rust builds up in the threads and binds the nut.

 

After you remove the spring assymbly and have the spring compressed, just use a hacksaw and cut the stem on the shock.
It will cut like butter and you do not have to worry with that rusted nut!!!

 

You may want to consider changing the shocks out anyway. My '95 came with DeCarbons that I'm glad I dumped! One starting leaking at 45K miles.

 

Just wanted to mention that if you look at the top of the shock rod it's flat. That flat is there to allow a tool to grab onto the shock rod and keep it from turning while a wrench is put on the nut. When I did my first shock changeout a friend had this flat wrench that was specifically for this. It worked, but it was still not easy. Since then I've changed them out frequently enough combined with the fact that I don't drive the car on the roads anymore, that it's no problem.

 

Figured I would post my experience.

I did give it another shot, and managed to get the driver's side done using air tools.


The passenger was a different story though. The nut wouldn't come off for anything, not even an impact gun would work. So I used a cutoff tool to cut the nut and the very top of the shaft off. I'm glad I had a new set of shocks!

I got that cut off and got the rubber isolator (rubber covered washer really) off the top mount, but the top mount wouldn't come off no matter what I tried. I ground at the shaft a little more and it didn't help, then I eased up on the spring compressors to try to use the spring to push the mount off and that didn't even work.

I ended up being able to fully release the spring compressors (or almost fully anyway) and it just stretched the center of the top mount. So I took the assembly to work to get the spring cut so I could get the compressors off when it popped off on it's own. It TORE the center of the upper mount out of the mount. The center is STILL attached to the shock shaft, and the mount itself is off.

So now I have to purchase a new upper mount and I will go ahead and purchase a new isolator too.

Since the car will be down while waiting for the parts, I've decided to go ahead and install my Hooker LT headers and Mufflex y-pipe. Installing the headers while the car sits on jackstands makes sense to me so I don't have to put it back up on them later.

I put the driver's side all back together, and have articulated the spring/shock on that side (lifted the lower control arm with a jack) and don't hear the creaking/popping like I did from the first time I tried the swap so maybe I got that taken care of. The new (used) springs are MUCH stiffer than the old ones, and they're longer too. A full inch longer when stood side by side with my originals.

Thanks for the tips folks...

Oh, I went back with the stock DeCarbons because they were cheap ($50 from SLP for all four), and I didn't have enough to replace them with something better. Besides, the car rode fine for me before... I plan to go to Bilstein HDs as soon as I can. I've got to get my PCM reprogrammed for a couple of things then I can start saving cash for the better shocks...

 

I hate to hear the you installed the deCarbons, especially with stiffer springs. I did that the first time I changed my springs (Eibach Sportlines... which are for sale if anyone wants them!!) and regretted it big time. My ride was terrible, very bouncy and out of control. The absolute worst suspension part GM put on F-Body's was the deCarbon shock. Now, with a stiffer spring, you've compounded that problem. I know money is always an issue (it is for me) but I learned the hard way, with shocks, you get what you pay for.