I'm interested in getting some subframe connectors for my 00' Z28. Mainly because I am reading it helps prevent dash rattles, and keeps the frame sturdy under high power. How much does it really help performance (advertised to help 1/4 and road racing/autocross)? I'm looking at MTI and the Hotchkis are $179.00. Is there a cheaper place that sells good ones? If you've had them installed, how much did it cost to get them welded in?

 

I can't say how much difference it would make for racing but it sure makes an F body better on the street. They make these cars much more stable over bumpy pavement. Plus if you get box section SFCs they make an excellent place for jacks or stands.

 

you probably won't see much difference in the 1/4mi unless you are making enough pwer to really twist the frame. and with the added 50pounds you theoretically would lose time.

as for the street and autoX...it makes a huge difference. much more solid on uneven roads. my impression was that it made the car ride rougher, mainly due to the frame not absorbing any of the bumps...it was all in the suspension...which is starting to wear out. having said this, the added "roughnes" is a good thing to me, it's not annoying but it gives the car a REAL solid feel.

i bought my bmr fabrication sfc, the heavy duty boxed vversion for $159, they make tubular ones for $139 i think.

sfc are highly recommended!!

and as for install $$...i got an insane deal...buddy did them for $50...took over 3 hours to grind the surfaces clean (undercoating) and weld them all up.

i have lots of install pics on page 3 of webpage in the sig

 

I got LG Motorsports SFC's with v-braces on sale, so less than retail price of $329.XX, got them installed for $80.00...

Not cheap, LGM SFC's are very beefy, I felt their price was worth it.

Matter of fact, I bought them twice, one for my sold 93Z28, and now for my 01SS.

 

Wow that's expensive! THe BMH subframe connectors are only 179, and the square box type looks very sturdy. I'll have to try my luck with those instead of spending twice the cash. Hopefully they will work ok. Thanks for the info..

 

No problem...
Just FYI, the guy who had it installed, his name is Don, he has done quite a few SFC's for both 3rd gen & 4th gen Camaro's, he has installed a few of the other manuf's, such as the Kenny Brown double diamond SFC's and the BMR SFC's, and Don pretty much marveled at the quality and craftmanship of the LG's that I bought, he commented how much sturdier the LG one were, he said no WAY will I be getting body flex now.

FWIW...Like I said, to me, they are worth it.

I'm sure what you get will be fine, just be somewhat wary of cheap ones, like that old saying goes, you get what you pay for.

Good luck!

 

Whats the benifits of the triangular SFC's over the other ones?
I had the SLP ones on my car, but wondering if they are worth the extra size, and if they are better.

I'm getting ready to buy again, and I though the SLP's made a HUGE difference, leaving the parking lot I could tell.

So SLP (or Kenny brown, easier to get up here)
or the BMR ones?

 

You'll be just fine with either.

You know what, I was talking out of my ***, very general information regarding SFC's, what I didn't ask was the purpose of the vehicle...This could make a big difference regarding the right SFC's...
Street purpose only you would be just fine with the BMR's, and the SLP's, I think there's more than meets the eye depending on what your plans are with your Camaro. If you're thinking about autox'ing in the future, you better check the rules book, as some SFC's out there can put your car into the heavily modified bracket, which means that they do major chassis & suspension modifications, thus making a relatively stock f-body suspension seriously lacking...

...Or is it that I'm making this topic more than it is?

Sorry for the rant!

 

Is one better then the other?
or is the diamond jsut a gimmik?

 

I think that the DD's (double-diamond) make sense, it's just someone's way of beeffing up the chassis, that's all. Once welded in, the DD's sort of simulate a full bottom half of a frame, something our cars really don't have. In slightly modified autocross events, the DD's can't be used, something about the SFC's not allowed to be connected in the middle, you know, like connecting the DD's via driveshaft loop, I think. I think the DD's tubing is not as heavy as the LGM SFC's, but there is more work involded to make them, so I figure, bottom line, it'll do the job.

What is the purpose of you getting them? Street & daily driven, SFC's are a real good idea for our 4th gen f-bodies, our unibody cars do a lot of flexing, in the long run, squeaks, t-tops not fitting correctly anymore(due to real hard driving I might add), as well as excessive t-top leaking(same reason!). At minimal, it'll help prevent the squeaks that high-mileage 4th gens quircky for.

The body literally torques out after a while! someone showed me their Camaro over here, no SFC's, he runs the strip, does some hard cornering as well, and both rear fenders had flex "dimples!" They weren't big dimples, and, nonetheless, they were there...

I decided I didn't want that to happen to my car, so I bought SFC's. Better safe than sorry!!!

 

Thanks for the info,

The reason for mine is daily driver and the track.
I had the SLP ones, and when hte truck hit it caught teh rear few inches of the pass side SFC and I can see where it transfered its energy to the other side, shearing two of the bolts on the tunnel brace in the process.
Guess I jsut wanted confirmation that it stiffens better, cause now that I think about I dont know why I asked whats better becuase in my mind I feel that the DD ones are better.
Thanks though.

 

I have heard the same thing, since the tunnel brace on our cars supposedly "connects" the two subframes together, that it will put you into Street Mod. What if the tunnel brace was removed? I cant see that flimsy of a piece of metal doing much to actually "brace" the tunnel, and it would allow the subframes to be "not connected" to each other, and therefore legal in ESP. Am I correct in this assumption/loophole of the rules?

 

It's mainly a street car, I might get into some road racing later on. I want to get SFCs to eliminate flex and save the car from rattling while it's still fairly fresh (18k miles on a 2000). It's got T-Tops also, so I want to do SFCs first. If I put it off too long it may never get done. That's more important to me than power adders.

 

FYI, check out this website also, it's dedicated to road racers & autocrossers, lots of members from here go to this site, you will receive lots of info:


www.FRRAX.com

 

cool site, THANKS!