It has been awhile since I have posted here. I had kidney cancer surgeries last year and bought a 2004 Silverado SS in December, that has kept me busy since then.

I don't recognize alot of the recent User IDs bet here goes:

I have adjustable front lower control arms, but they are incredible pain in the butt to adjust (ie. need to disconnect lower ball joint from spindle, shock from LCA and swaybar from both LCAs, disconnect 1 LCA bushing and loosen the other). This is beyond what an alignment shop is willing to do.

HAVE ANY OF YOU EVER SLOTTED THE FRAME TO GET MORE ADJUSTMENT RANGE ON THE LCAS??

Note that I have a 94Z28M6 with a 100% aftermarket suspension (ie LG Motorsports front LCA, rear aluminum LCA & PHB; Global West front UCA, rear antisquat bracket, rear adj height suspension; Spohn TA; Koni DAs; Ground Control front Coilovers; Addco solid SBs, Torsen diff, BAER bumpsteer kit, Hotckiss strut tower brace, Kenne Bell Double Diamond SFCs, Grannetelli upper PHB brace, AFR ZR1 wheels with R-Compound Nittos, Kumhos, Advans) that use no rubber in the suspension anywhere (3-piece spherical rod ends and greasable polyurethane bushings on the SBs).

Rick R

 

I asked the same question a while ago and the answer was it's been done before but not legal in certain autocross classes. I think ist not legal mostly for safety reasons than anything else, if you go too far it could break. aNYWAY, HERE'S THE THREAD:

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...hreadid=226346

 

Thanks for the link.

Well, I am modified way past those classes anyway with the full aftermarket suspension. I autocross for fun only, not competition.

I guess, for safety purposes, I should do it the right way and spend 3 hours dissassembling, adjusting and reassembling to get the desired adjustment range. The LG front LCAs fully adjustable, but can be a real pain if you are not close after the 1st assembly. The alignment shop does not want to spend time disassembling the lower ball joint, shock lower mount and both sway bar connections to the control arms to adjust these things (very time consuming).

Rick R

 

That's because 99% of us have moved to www.FRRAX.com

 

Is this a proper address? The link to this site does not appear to work.

Rick R

 

Try this for the time being. They're in the process of moving to a new server.

same site...

http://www.mtfba.org/rrforum/

 

FRRAX.com is working now. Be sure to post at FRRAX.com and not at he MTFBA board.

ICORNER if you get a chance, could you send a picture of your front rod ended swaybar endlinks? I would love to see them. I already have a similar setup in the rear, with my adjustable bar, but would like to see a front setup also.

As for your LCA's get a measurement of your stock arms, and adjust your new rod ended arms to the same length. Or for more negative camber slightly longer. (Longer for the lower, shorter for the upper)

I would only go slightly longer, since the uppers are already slightly shorter. By having a longer lower, and shorter upper you will me able have a nice caber adjustment. If you get lucky about -1.5 will be right in the middle of the slot.

Go this route, and then an alignment shop can align your car just like anyone elses.

Hope to see you (and others) over at FRRAX.com!!

 

Hi Lonnie,

Long time no hear. The kidney cancer really put me behind things last year. It took awhile to recover from that and get back to the swing of things at work at the Nuclear Power plant. I have not been paying enough attention to the 94Z28M6 lately. Bought a Silverado SS in December, which of course required alot of add-ons and have been doing alot or maintenance and restoration to our 1996 Impala SS.

Sorry to imply that I had rod-ended swaybars on the Z28. Those are the only pieces that use poly bushings on my car. I used to use Herb Adams rod-ended swaybars on my 1974 SD Formula 455. They had instant response. However, I have not seen any for the 4th gen F-Bodies.

Whose rear rod-end links are you using?

Take Care.

Rick R