I currently have the Eibach Pro-kit, but i want to go lower. About 1.5 - 1.75", but i would like handling not just looks. I don't auto-X, but i am aggressive in the corners.

Any opinions and pics?

What about Mac springs?

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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors; -1 camber alignment

 

G2 springs from http://www.lgmotorsports.com


I don't have updated pics yet with these springs. I have had them for a few months and only one track day so far, but they are excellent for the track and every day use.



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96 Z28 M6-Lots of bolt ons!

Smitty's Speed Shop
My 1996 Z-28

Road Racing Pics

 

I'd recommend taking out the rubber spacer for your rear springs and installing Ground Control coilovers on the front. With springs the front coilovers are about the same price as a new set of springs (approx. $220) and your Pro rear rate is just fine.

The advantages for the front coilovers are you can adjust the ride height and change your spring rate for about $100 later if you want to. You also don't need a spring compressor to change shocks or springs in the future since you can just adjust the sleeve and take tension off the springs.

If you're interested in the GC coilovers I'd recommend getting them from Sam Strano at http://www.stranoparts.com.


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Mike Taylor
'94 Formula
Holley cold air, Borla downpipe, Walker UltraFlo catback, BMR STB, BMR PHR, Ground Control coilovers, Bilsteins, 16x9.5 Rikens, Hoosier 275/45/16 A3S03, G2 Torque Arm, Torsen T2R

[This message has been edited by 94bird (edited July 06, 2002).]

 

One of the most common mistakes made suspension-wise is going too low. For a suspension to work it needs travel. These cars are travel impaired as it is. Why have a suspension if you don't have any travel?Might as well replace the shocks with solid rods. Often times folks who have lowered their cars a bunch complain about their ride becoming unbearable. Especially if they lowered it and did not compensate by stiffening up the springs AND shocks enough. They are banging the bump stops all the time. You must increase the spring rate and shock damping more and more as you decrease ride height to keep from smacking the bumb stops over every little ripple in the pavement. The stiffest spring, within reason, is softer than the softest bump stop and hitting the stops will jar your teeth loose and upset the handling of the car far more than the lower cg will help handling. If you drive at all on the street you also have to contend with scraping driveways and speed bumps and even deeply rutted asphalt. My car is lowered just under an inch and I have scraped them all. Shortening the struts helps. I see you are from the Great White North. I hope the roads are better in Canada than the northern reaches of the States but if they are even half as bad as they are here, you'll want as much travel as possible.

If you drive only on the track you can get away with lower ride height than on the street, but again there are limits.

Adjustable ride height in front AND rear is the way to go. That way if you go too far in lowering the car it's easily reversible. Ground Control makes an adjustable perch for the rear as well as front coil overs.

My car like I said is lowered just shy of an inch, with 500# springs up front and revalved Bilstein struts. 150# springs in the rear with Bilstein HD's. I absolutely love the balance of the car and the ride is better than stock on most roads. But I have whacked the stops enough to know I'd go no lower unless I really stiifened up the suspension more and shortened the struts.

Some folks love the look of a really low car but it's not necessary to achieve excellant handling. All I'm saying is don't over do it and have a plan to fall back on if you do.

Good Luck!

[This message has been edited by Elliswon (edited July 07, 2002).]

 

Thanks for the replys guys.

I know i like the Eibach Sportline's look a lot, and i spoke to Eibach about the differences between these and the pro-kit. They say the lower center of gravity with the sportline kit will give better handling. As well the sportline has a linear rate front and same as prokit for the back(progressive). They say this is necessary to allow more control in the front because it is lower.

Any opinions on this?


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1993 red M6 Z28; custom control arms; bushings; strut bar; Eibach Pro-kit;17" rims & 275 tires; Mac exhaust; K&N cold air; airfoil; TB bypass; 3.73 gears; KVR pads & rotors; -1 camber alignment