opinions on LCA's, control arm brkt's, and panhard rods
opinions on LCA's, control arm brkt's, and panhard rods
Hi guys, Im looking at opinions on LCA's, control arm brkt's, and panhard rods for my 95Z.
After research it looks to me like the best options are G2 and Global West. I'd be curious as to fit and function between the two. Also, how much of an improvement is there in performance/maintenance with Spherical bearings? How much added noise? As far as noise I have heard comments both ways.
The application is a daily driver that sees lots of corner carving with little strip time. The car has been lowered 2" and the rear axle sees 440HP & TQ.
And yes, there is a Random Tech TQ arm in my garage waiting to be installed.
Thanks in advance. msw
After research it looks to me like the best options are G2 and Global West. I'd be curious as to fit and function between the two. Also, how much of an improvement is there in performance/maintenance with Spherical bearings? How much added noise? As far as noise I have heard comments both ways.
The application is a daily driver that sees lots of corner carving with little strip time. The car has been lowered 2" and the rear axle sees 440HP & TQ.
And yes, there is a Random Tech TQ arm in my garage waiting to be installed.

Thanks in advance. msw
When you say "lots of corner carving" do you mean track time, or street driving?
Makes a huge difference, IMO. If this is on the track, get LCA's and Panhard with good quality rod ends. If this is on the street, get poly if you want to stiffen up the ride. That gives a bit more compliant ride on the street, where you're not going to push the car to the absolute limits anyway.
Just one opinion though - I know there are others...
Dave
Makes a huge difference, IMO. If this is on the track, get LCA's and Panhard with good quality rod ends. If this is on the street, get poly if you want to stiffen up the ride. That gives a bit more compliant ride on the street, where you're not going to push the car to the absolute limits anyway.
Just one opinion though - I know there are others...
Dave
Hi Dave, Street driving. For now.
I'm running Eibach sportlines and Bilsteins with BFG KD's. I know what stiff feels like! I noticed allot more windup/lateral movement in the rear suspension when I rebuilt the motor last year. Its like the back end loads up at apex and doesn't release it again till the car is just about strait. Hard to get a nice smooth exit.
I can handle firm. Would prefer to stay away from any unnecessary noise.
Thanks, msw
I'm running Eibach sportlines and Bilsteins with BFG KD's. I know what stiff feels like! I noticed allot more windup/lateral movement in the rear suspension when I rebuilt the motor last year. Its like the back end loads up at apex and doesn't release it again till the car is just about strait. Hard to get a nice smooth exit.
I can handle firm. Would prefer to stay away from any unnecessary noise.
Thanks, msw
I am running the following on mainly the street with some autocross for fun (modified out of competition for stock weight):
94Z28M6 with a 100% aftermarket suspension (ie LG Motorsports front LCA, rear aluminum LCA & PHB; Global West front UCA, rear antisquat bracket, rear adj height suspension; Spohn TA; Koni DAs; Ground Control front Coilovers; Addco solid SBs, Torsen diff, BAER bumpsteer kit, Hotckiss strut tower brace, Kenne Bell Double Diamond SFCs, Grannetelli upper PHB brace, AFR ZR1 wheels with R-Compound Nittos, Kumhos, Advans) that use no rubber in the suspension anywhere (3-piece spherical rod ends and greasable polyurethane bushings on the SBs).
Result. With 500lb springs on the front and 100 springs on the rear, it is not really stiff. The suspension actually strokes much more smoothly than with rubber bushings that bind it up some. However, the spherical rod ends will transmit sharp road irregularites and you should avoid sharp potholes. I pulled my front LCAs after 25000 street miles of abuse and the LGM spherical rod ends were still very tight (quality rod ends make all of the difference 3-piece or 2 piece injected last).
I tried poly on the front control arms of an F-body years ago and it was a huge mistake (binding, squeaking, choppy). For our cars, whatever you do, stay away from poly on the rear LCAs. It will totally screw up the handling of the rear of your car (drag racing piece only). When the rear binds in the middle of a hard corner, the back end will suddenly come around on you - surprise.
Rick R
94Z28M6 with a 100% aftermarket suspension (ie LG Motorsports front LCA, rear aluminum LCA & PHB; Global West front UCA, rear antisquat bracket, rear adj height suspension; Spohn TA; Koni DAs; Ground Control front Coilovers; Addco solid SBs, Torsen diff, BAER bumpsteer kit, Hotckiss strut tower brace, Kenne Bell Double Diamond SFCs, Grannetelli upper PHB brace, AFR ZR1 wheels with R-Compound Nittos, Kumhos, Advans) that use no rubber in the suspension anywhere (3-piece spherical rod ends and greasable polyurethane bushings on the SBs).
Result. With 500lb springs on the front and 100 springs on the rear, it is not really stiff. The suspension actually strokes much more smoothly than with rubber bushings that bind it up some. However, the spherical rod ends will transmit sharp road irregularites and you should avoid sharp potholes. I pulled my front LCAs after 25000 street miles of abuse and the LGM spherical rod ends were still very tight (quality rod ends make all of the difference 3-piece or 2 piece injected last).
I tried poly on the front control arms of an F-body years ago and it was a huge mistake (binding, squeaking, choppy). For our cars, whatever you do, stay away from poly on the rear LCAs. It will totally screw up the handling of the rear of your car (drag racing piece only). When the rear binds in the middle of a hard corner, the back end will suddenly come around on you - surprise.
Rick R
I just put 3pt.diamond type SFCs and G2 double adj. T-6 rod ended LCAs on the 94Z.Nice upgrade a very noticable difference. Makes things tight/flat I will be putting a rod ended PHB also.
As far as the extra road noice asociated w/the addition of the rod ended LCAs.I notice a bit mostly like road buttons/joints.You can subtlely feel the road,which is kinda the noise. I like
As far as the extra road noice asociated w/the addition of the rod ended LCAs.I notice a bit mostly like road buttons/joints.You can subtlely feel the road,which is kinda the noise. I like
Thanks for the reply's.
Rick, #7, I look thru LG Motorsports on line catalog and I only see steel referenced on LCA's. No Aluminum, or for that matter any reference to double adjustability. What am I missing?
I talked to a guy who is a very good autocross driver (C4) yesterday and he said that a possible downside to spherical ends on the rear is the car will want to want to break away more quickly. I assume do to road irregularities. Have you guys notice a tendency toward that?
Thanks, msw
Rick, #7, I look thru LG Motorsports on line catalog and I only see steel referenced on LCA's. No Aluminum, or for that matter any reference to double adjustability. What am I missing?
I talked to a guy who is a very good autocross driver (C4) yesterday and he said that a possible downside to spherical ends on the rear is the car will want to want to break away more quickly. I assume do to road irregularities. Have you guys notice a tendency toward that?
Thanks, msw
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/1701/ http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Mods/P...mlbushings.htm
Some stuff to look at.The second one is courtesy of John A. from here.
If you want the G2 lca's you will have to call them,not in online catalogue. I got mine off E-bay for $170.
I cant say if the rod ends cause the rear to break way easier I'm not noticing this.No more than normal
Coarse I can induce sideways and go with it for fun . And this I have done since the install.And a very noticable gain in stability when in the slide.And coming out Well smooth as butter falls right inline.No twitch or wiggle feels way better.
Some stuff to look at.The second one is courtesy of John A. from here.
If you want the G2 lca's you will have to call them,not in online catalogue. I got mine off E-bay for $170.
I cant say if the rod ends cause the rear to break way easier I'm not noticing this.No more than normal
Coarse I can induce sideways and go with it for fun . And this I have done since the install.And a very noticable gain in stability when in the slide.And coming out Well smooth as butter falls right inline.No twitch or wiggle feels way better.
Lou G has still not updated the website to show the rear aluminum LCAs and aluminum panhard rod bar. They are both double rod-ended with 2 piece rod ends that are teflon injected. I had used his front lower control arms with the same rod ends for 25000 street miles with no problem.
I previously used Global West rear LCAs with aircraft spherical bearings, which were great but heavy. I switched to the aluminum LG LCAs for less weight and for more 315mm tire clearance.
I previously used an RK sport aluminum adjustable panhard bar, but the LG PHR bar is much more rigid. His aluminum units are not simple aluminum tubing. The are tapered to be narrow at the rod end and wider in the center to resist any tendency to bend.
I have not noticed any tendency of the rear to skip with these pieces. The actually stroke through their arcs more smoothly than the rubber or poly units that bind them somewhat. Springs, swaybars, tires with too little sidewall and shocks have more of an effect on that problem.
Rod ends will transmit more high-frequency road bumps (ie. reflector markers, joints, etc).
I previously used Global West rear LCAs with aircraft spherical bearings, which were great but heavy. I switched to the aluminum LG LCAs for less weight and for more 315mm tire clearance.
I previously used an RK sport aluminum adjustable panhard bar, but the LG PHR bar is much more rigid. His aluminum units are not simple aluminum tubing. The are tapered to be narrow at the rod end and wider in the center to resist any tendency to bend.
I have not noticed any tendency of the rear to skip with these pieces. The actually stroke through their arcs more smoothly than the rubber or poly units that bind them somewhat. Springs, swaybars, tires with too little sidewall and shocks have more of an effect on that problem.
Rod ends will transmit more high-frequency road bumps (ie. reflector markers, joints, etc).
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