Oil Temperatures?
06-20-2002, 09:44 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 329
Well I haven't raced the car, and I found out I need a new gage, but regular cruising I see 220-250.....under throttle...it goes past 250. Stupid AutoMeter gage doesn't go any farther than that.
This is with the sender in the pan, on a 383 blown car, this was with out the oil cooler, I don't have info with the cooler install yet.
This is with the sender in the pan, on a 383 blown car, this was with out the oil cooler, I don't have info with the cooler install yet.
06-20-2002, 02:15 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Cedar Rapids, IOWA,USA
Posts: 84
Don- I would recommend an oil cooler. Those are high temps even for synthetic oil. Not knowing what your car is, but try www.dougrippie.com for a racing quality cooler. Or, you can buy a sandwich adapter and piece it together yourself.
My temps were 280-290 before the install-now max at 230 with the cooler.
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90 IROC,394 ci,vortech,SR intake, Accel DFI, MSD 72lb. injectors,Accel injector cntrl,Tremec TKO, 9" Ford,NX 150 HP shot, Spohn adj ctrl arms-sway bars-race tqe arm-,Ground Control coil overs & camber plates,EDL tower brace, roll bar,Kirkey seat
my pics
My temps were 280-290 before the install-now max at 230 with the cooler.
------------------
90 IROC,394 ci,vortech,SR intake, Accel DFI, MSD 72lb. injectors,Accel injector cntrl,Tremec TKO, 9" Ford,NX 150 HP shot, Spohn adj ctrl arms-sway bars-race tqe arm-,Ground Control coil overs & camber plates,EDL tower brace, roll bar,Kirkey seat
my pics
06-21-2002, 12:29 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 172
You didn't say where you have the sender/sensor mounted, or if it is an electrical or mechanical gauge. That is necessary to determine if you really have high oil temps.
Bob Bishop
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lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
Bob Bishop
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lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
06-21-2002, 02:33 PM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Manchester, CT
Posts: 24
When I worked at an oil research lab, the SG oil test had a phase (IIIE) where it ran on a Buick 3.8L at 3,000 RPM for 64 hours. Oil temp was 300, coolant temp was 235.
Please read http://www.swri.edu/4org/d08/Abstracts/4cycle.pdf
TankII
Please read http://www.swri.edu/4org/d08/Abstracts/4cycle.pdf
TankII
06-22-2002, 11:26 AM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 172
In that mounting location, you aren't getting a false reading from exhaust heat; those are your real temps. That is the same gauge I now have. I added the gauge because I recently did heads and cam and was concerned that my oil temps at Road Atlanta might get to what you are showing. Unfortunately, the next track day at Road Atlanta is in August. My street temps are @ 190-200. I saw 210 degrees on a really hot day a week ago when I was driving as hard as I dare to on the street. But that can't be compared to track driving. On the street, my coolant temps are @ 185-195, but on the track I see 230-235, even after sending out the radiator to a radiator shop for professional flushing.
I forgot to mention that my car has the factory (Moraine) oil to water cooler. Maybe it helps. I'll know in 6 weeks. I also have the Canton road race oil pan. It adds @ a quart to the capacity and that probably lowers temps a few degrees. If it increases capacity 20%, then each quart has 20% longer to cool before being cycled through the engine again.
Bob Bishop
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lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
[This message has been edited by lateapex (edited June 22, 2002).]
[This message has been edited by lateapex (edited June 22, 2002).]
I forgot to mention that my car has the factory (Moraine) oil to water cooler. Maybe it helps. I'll know in 6 weeks. I also have the Canton road race oil pan. It adds @ a quart to the capacity and that probably lowers temps a few degrees. If it increases capacity 20%, then each quart has 20% longer to cool before being cycled through the engine again.
Bob Bishop
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lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
[This message has been edited by lateapex (edited June 22, 2002).]
[This message has been edited by lateapex (edited June 22, 2002).]
06-22-2002, 11:33 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1
260-270 Oil temp. Mechanical gauge with sender in stock oil pan.
190-200 Water temp. Mechanical gauge with sender in the bypass hose going from radiator to water pump.
30 min. session. Ambient temp ~75. Redline 10w30 synth. oil.
Oil cooler...... can't recall the name for sure. I think it's a permacool dual circuit. One circuit for oil and one for power steering.
95 Z28 track use only.
Wayne
190-200 Water temp. Mechanical gauge with sender in the bypass hose going from radiator to water pump.
30 min. session. Ambient temp ~75. Redline 10w30 synth. oil.
Oil cooler...... can't recall the name for sure. I think it's a permacool dual circuit. One circuit for oil and one for power steering.
95 Z28 track use only.
Wayne
06-24-2002, 11:37 AM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Corpus Christi Texas
Posts: 7
It sounds like my temps might be in line with WAYNE02. I'm running 235 water, 295 oil, 95 ambient outside air, 10W30 Mobil 1.
My thoughts were that the oil cooler would keep the oil temp within 30-35 degrees of the water temp.
My thoughts were that the oil cooler would keep the oil temp within 30-35 degrees of the water temp.
06-24-2002, 01:31 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 172
Don,
In the Jan. 1996 issue of C&D, they tested the Corvette GS (it had the LT4 engine). When they did the top speed test, they said,"The Grand Sport option doesn't buy the LT4 a much-needed oil cooler, and a minute or two at top speed spikes the oil temperature gauge needle PAST the red zone. 'That's where the synthetic oil saves you,' says Corvette Engineering Manager Bob Applegate..." I don't know if that should be comforting or not; just something else to consider.
Bob Bishop
------------------
lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
In the Jan. 1996 issue of C&D, they tested the Corvette GS (it had the LT4 engine). When they did the top speed test, they said,"The Grand Sport option doesn't buy the LT4 a much-needed oil cooler, and a minute or two at top speed spikes the oil temperature gauge needle PAST the red zone. 'That's where the synthetic oil saves you,' says Corvette Engineering Manager Bob Applegate..." I don't know if that should be comforting or not; just something else to consider.
Bob Bishop
------------------
lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
06-28-2002, 12:08 AM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 86
I have a stock worthless oil cooler along with a bunch of other parts to try and keep my car running cool. See sig.
Problem is I live in Phoenix and I need something else to keep the oil temp. down. I'm sure the Doug Rippie unit is good, but the price isn't. I'm looking for a good oil cooler at a reasonable price.
Any suggestions?!?!?!
Thanks,
Kurt
------------------
LT4 HOT cam, GM heavy duty timing chain, Crane chromemoly pushrods, Comp Cams "R" lifters, K&N FIPK, BBK 58mm TB, ported intake manifold, ported & polished heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves, 30# SVO injectors, MSD wires, BeCool radiator, CSI elec. pump, March PP kit, Crane 1.6:1 RR's, Crane ignition, AS&M 1-3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, high flow cat, Hurst shifter, Centerforce DF clutch, SLP flywheel, 3" alum. drive shaft, Strange 12 bolt with 3.73's, HAL shocks, Eibach/SLP springs, Granatelli STB & upper panhard rod, ST sway bars, SLP subframe connectors, Steve Spohn racing torque arm, RLCA's & lower panhard rod, Wolfe Race Craft roll cage, 13" Baer brakes, SLP 17" SS wheels, Auto Meter gauges, LT1-Editor and more... Dyno tested: 370 RWHP w/ 358 Torque http://www.geocities.com/crash607/kurt1.html
Problem is I live in Phoenix and I need something else to keep the oil temp. down. I'm sure the Doug Rippie unit is good, but the price isn't. I'm looking for a good oil cooler at a reasonable price.
Any suggestions?!?!?!
Thanks,
Kurt
------------------
LT4 HOT cam, GM heavy duty timing chain, Crane chromemoly pushrods, Comp Cams "R" lifters, K&N FIPK, BBK 58mm TB, ported intake manifold, ported & polished heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves, 30# SVO injectors, MSD wires, BeCool radiator, CSI elec. pump, March PP kit, Crane 1.6:1 RR's, Crane ignition, AS&M 1-3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, high flow cat, Hurst shifter, Centerforce DF clutch, SLP flywheel, 3" alum. drive shaft, Strange 12 bolt with 3.73's, HAL shocks, Eibach/SLP springs, Granatelli STB & upper panhard rod, ST sway bars, SLP subframe connectors, Steve Spohn racing torque arm, RLCA's & lower panhard rod, Wolfe Race Craft roll cage, 13" Baer brakes, SLP 17" SS wheels, Auto Meter gauges, LT1-Editor and more... Dyno tested: 370 RWHP w/ 358 Torque http://www.geocities.com/crash607/kurt1.html
06-28-2002, 10:41 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 172
Kurt,
What improvement in coolant temps did you get from the Be Cool radiator? I am about to get a 383 and want to have a plan ready to go if I experience high temps road racing. Also, did the installation require a lot of customizing to make it fit? Back in 1997, GMHTP installed a Be Cool in their Firebird and it was clear that the radiator wasn't really made for an Fbody. If they have a model that drops in now, I will get one.
Bob Bishop
------------------
lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
What improvement in coolant temps did you get from the Be Cool radiator? I am about to get a 383 and want to have a plan ready to go if I experience high temps road racing. Also, did the installation require a lot of customizing to make it fit? Back in 1997, GMHTP installed a Be Cool in their Firebird and it was clear that the radiator wasn't really made for an Fbody. If they have a model that drops in now, I will get one.
Bob Bishop
------------------
lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
07-01-2002, 01:23 AM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 86
Bob,
I discovered that the cheapest and most effective way to keep an F-body running cooler is a 160 degree thermostat and either programming the electric fans to come on sooner or installing a switch to force the electric fans to stay on all the time. The BeCool radiator helps to maintain the cooler temperature during racing, but it doesn't lower the coolant temp. The CSI electric water pump did lower the coolant temp. a little.
I read the same article in GMHTP, but I don't remember them having any problems with the install. I purchased the radiator after reading that article.
I've been using the BeCool radiator for about 4+ years. It was a breeze to install, and it fit like a glove
About 2 years ago I installed the CSI elec. water pump. I also removed the entire AC system, so I could pull the radiator forward. I drilled a new hole in the plastic radiator shroud. The new hole is about an inch from the old hole. 1 inch made a huge difference. I didn't have to cut the electric fans to make room for the electric water pump.
Hope this helps. I have some pictures I can e-mail you, if you want. You can also see the radiator in one of the pictures on my website.
Kurt
------------------
LT4 HOT cam, GM heavy duty timing chain, Crane chromemoly pushrods, Comp Cams "R" lifters, K&N FIPK, BBK 58mm TB, ported intake manifold, ported & polished heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves, 30# SVO injectors, MSD wires, BeCool radiator, CSI elec. pump, March PP kit, Crane 1.6:1 RR's, Crane ignition, AS&M 1-3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, high flow cat, Hurst shifter, Centerforce DF clutch, SLP flywheel, 3" alum. drive shaft, Strange 12 bolt with 3.73's, HAL shocks, Eibach/SLP springs, Granatelli STB & upper panhard rod, ST sway bars, SLP subframe connectors, Steve Spohn racing torque arm, RLCA's & lower panhard rod, Wolfe Race Craft roll cage, 13" Baer brakes, SLP 17" SS wheels, Auto Meter gauges, LT1-Editor and more... Dyno tested: 370 RWHP w/ 358 Torque http://www.geocities.com/crash607/kurt1.html
I discovered that the cheapest and most effective way to keep an F-body running cooler is a 160 degree thermostat and either programming the electric fans to come on sooner or installing a switch to force the electric fans to stay on all the time. The BeCool radiator helps to maintain the cooler temperature during racing, but it doesn't lower the coolant temp. The CSI electric water pump did lower the coolant temp. a little.
I read the same article in GMHTP, but I don't remember them having any problems with the install. I purchased the radiator after reading that article.
I've been using the BeCool radiator for about 4+ years. It was a breeze to install, and it fit like a glove
About 2 years ago I installed the CSI elec. water pump. I also removed the entire AC system, so I could pull the radiator forward. I drilled a new hole in the plastic radiator shroud. The new hole is about an inch from the old hole. 1 inch made a huge difference. I didn't have to cut the electric fans to make room for the electric water pump.Hope this helps. I have some pictures I can e-mail you, if you want. You can also see the radiator in one of the pictures on my website.
Kurt
------------------
LT4 HOT cam, GM heavy duty timing chain, Crane chromemoly pushrods, Comp Cams "R" lifters, K&N FIPK, BBK 58mm TB, ported intake manifold, ported & polished heads w/ 2.00/1.56 valves, 30# SVO injectors, MSD wires, BeCool radiator, CSI elec. pump, March PP kit, Crane 1.6:1 RR's, Crane ignition, AS&M 1-3/4" headers, SLP cat-back, high flow cat, Hurst shifter, Centerforce DF clutch, SLP flywheel, 3" alum. drive shaft, Strange 12 bolt with 3.73's, HAL shocks, Eibach/SLP springs, Granatelli STB & upper panhard rod, ST sway bars, SLP subframe connectors, Steve Spohn racing torque arm, RLCA's & lower panhard rod, Wolfe Race Craft roll cage, 13" Baer brakes, SLP 17" SS wheels, Auto Meter gauges, LT1-Editor and more... Dyno tested: 370 RWHP w/ 358 Torque http://www.geocities.com/crash607/kurt1.html
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