I have an aluminum-pan hard bar (PHB) that I picked up and am looking to get some new rod ends before I slap it on.

My aluminum spacers adapt a 0.75" bore (3/4") to the size used by our suspension bolts (havn't really checked), so I'd like to keep the bore the same size.

Also, the current PHR is threaded for 3/4-16 rod ends (0.75" thread diameter, 16-threads per inch) about 1.7" deep.

I could have the PHR's ends drilled out to 13/16" and tapped for a 7/8-14 rod end if nessesary, but the tube only has a 1.125" exterior diameter so I'm not crazy about thinning the tube just to fit a larger rod... I don't imagine that would help strength at all. But I may be wrong... any know for sure?


So my question is... what's the best rod-end I can get? and what would be "excessive" for a daily-driver that does some drag racing and may see a lapping day this or next year.

I'm looking for a high-quality rod end that won't bang like a rail-car everytime I take a corner. Anyone have a lead for me?

These are the two I've been looking at so far:
1) NMB/NHBB's ART12ECR and ARTL12ECR for $97/each(http://www.bakerprecision.com/nhbb1.htm)

2) QA1's XMR12 and XML12 for $27.42/each (http://www.qa1.net/rodends/endura/endura_xmrxml.html)

The guys at QA1 said the XM series are chromoly alloy steel. The NMB's are a type stainless steel.

 

Just did some calculations. The 3/4-16 threaded ends have a maximum of 0.1875" wall thickness, while a drilled and tapped version with 7/8-14 threads would have 0.125" thick walls.

Would the 33% drop in wall thickness (in an aluminum tube) be worth the 18% gain in rod-end shaft thickness (13/16" ID vs 11/16" ID)?

Heres a strange one... the threads for 3/4-16 have a 0.03125" thick ring where the 60* threads actually overlap. The threads for 7/8-14 ALSO have a 0.03125" thick ring where the 60* threads actually overlap... although the ring itself has grown by 17% (0.071"" vs. 0.083"").

So does the 17% gain in thread area overlap and 18% gain in shaft thickness offset the 33% drop in PHB wall thickness?

Considering that the rod-end is already of stronger material than the aluminum tubing I'm inclined to belive that the PHB's wall-thickness would be more important than making the rod end shaft even stronger than it already is. Or in the increased thread area more important since the PHB has a majority of the forces act down the axis of the tube (more so than bending perpendicularyly accross the rod shaft/tube cross-sections?

Should I stick with the 3/4-16 rods or go to a "heavy duty" 7/8-14 rod design like NMB's ARHT12ECR/ARHTL12ECR ends which also have 3/4" bores?

Probably won't make much of a difference, but I'm curioius if someone can give me a reason to spend the extra $10 and get the "heavy duty" rods.

 

Stick with 3/4" ends. They are more than adequate. They're actually many times as strong as they need to be as are the threads in the bar (as long as you have 3/4" or so of thread protrusion). In fact, for this application a 5/8" end would even be sufficient.

Since the bar is made for 3/4" ends to fit, changing the size either way would be a PITA for no good reason.

The QA1's in mine have been utterly silent for more than two years. A rod ended PHB doesn't add ride harshness like LCA's so if you get quality ends that don't rattle it's a very street-friendly mod.

But you will notice a difference when you turn the wheel. Especially if you currently have the stock bar, it's a very nice improvement. I was surprized what a difference it made.

 

Thanks Jon, thats exactly what I wanted to hear. I didn't want to dump $200 on rod ends unless it was ABSOLUTELY nessesary (even then I may have looked into poly ).

I'll order the XMR12 and XML12 tomorrow.

 

I'll throw in a quick note to check out prices on Aurora rod ends. I have the 3 piece Teflon lined 3/4" Chromoly end on my LCAs. They're awesome.



I've been told the QA1 rod ends are also very good.

 

wow, nice set up.

Are those spacers brass?
I'm assuming those are 3/4" bores in the rod end... where can I get a set?

I'm worried my aluminum spacers may not be as snug (both to the rod-end's bore and the bolt) as I'd like them.

 

Brass would be a poor material for this application. I'd be willing to bet Jason's spacers are aluminum and anodized gold (which is a nice touch).

 

I'm not positive, but Jon is probably right. I think they're aluminum that has been anodized. The LCAs were done by Jason Swindle at Unbalanced Engineering. you can check out his stuff at http://www.unbalancedengineering.com

 

I've shot him an email to see if I can get some spacers for my XML12 and XML12 rodends.

I've also asked about the Rag Joint Eliminator he's got listed on his site. Anyone use this? Is there increased noise or decreased durabililty by going to the kit? (honestly I don't even know what it is... but since it only costs $30 I may just break-open my GM Service Manual to find out. Hey I'm payign for shipping anyway right? ).

 

Well I havn't had a chance to look up this Rag Joint thing... but I did get my QA1 rod ends.

The plain 2-peice ends I'm taking off are fairly loose and only have a thin, almost transparent, teflon lining. The PHR will bang with these ends, and although the ball looks brand new, its so loose a tiny tap with a finger can get it moving.

The QA1 rod ends I purchased were from there Endura series. Its a beefier rod end and it shows. The XMR12 and XML12 are "the best rod end we [QA1 salesman] make", and is ~$30 each delivered.

The rod ends arrived in a box stuffed with packing peanuts, and sealed in an individual bag labeled with their part number. The threads (mine, the XMR12/XML12 are 3/4-16) are covered with a clear vinyl tubing to prevent damage in shipment.

Although the QA1's are also 2-piece rod ends, the race is an injected-teflon/kevlar compound that ensures self-lubrication. The race seems to be ~1/8" thick from what I can tell... but I'm sure you can get the exact details from QA1 if you ask. These are the same guys who told me the XM series are the best rod end they make, and that the $97 NMB 3-piece rod ends are the best in the business... no fluff, just honest answers.

So anyway, the ball is tight enough that it'll stick in place for a moderate amount of pressure with you finger, but you can get it to "unstick" with a bit of pressure, and belive me it swings over FAST after that. It appears the injected race gives it a bit of "pre-load" of sorts, although it's probably just a nice tight fit. This is the first quality rod end I've played with and am quite impressed.

I'll let ya know how they work out doing 400 miles/week in Seattle hills/rain.

Anyone think I need to put a rubber boot or something over the ends of the PHR? I'd hate to get dirt in there and ruin my rod ends...

 

I have one. If you look under the black cover on the steering shaft you'll see the rag joint. Basically its a rubber coupling designed to isolate vibration and break in the case of an accident. Mine was worn out causing a noticable amount of slop in the steering. Its a non-servicable part according to GM so you have to replace the entire shaft its attached to which runs about $90. I was broke so I opted for the rag joint eliminator instead.

I haven't noticed any increased noise and it improved the steering feel a good bit. Only downside is that it was a total PITA to put in. The stock rag joint is held in with these ~3/8" diameter steel rivet things which really didnt want to come out. I had to cut them in half, grind the hell out of them, and then beat them with a hammer till they were no more. There may be an easier way but since it didnt come with any instructions I had to get creative.