How hard is it to put loger wheel studs on a LT1 car (94 Trans Am to be exact..)?

I am mainly wondering about the rear studs. I have heard you have to pull the axles to put longer studs in. Why is that necessary?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the front ones are pretty easy to change out, right?

Oh, and will the longer GM truck studs work in front and back if I want to run 5/16 spacers on all my wheels?

Thanks,
Shawn

 

front studs are no problem

I have done it right (removing bearing assembly and placing in a vise so you only beat on the stud) and the other way (big hammer with everything still on the car)

other way is much faster

rear

don't know about LT1 car, but on 98+ cars, if they have traction control, there is a hole where the sensor goes that you can use to remove and insert longer studs

if you don't have that, then I understand you do have to pull the axles on all cars without TC because you can't work the longer studs in between the backing plate and hub

not sure I'd want super long studs and fat spacers if I was turning corners

they make spacers that bolt onto the hub, and the spacer has it's own set of studs

have seen posts mentioning them but don't know where to get them

 

Thanks...I was afraid I might have to pull the rear axles to change the rear studs. Maybe my rear studs will be long enough to work with the spacers I have. I only want to run 5/16 spacers, which is a pretty common size run by a lot of people.

Shawn

 

 

I'm looking into upgrading to slightly longer studs, maybe 1/2" longer. the truck studs are something like 3.5" long. A bit longer than what I would want. I called a parts guy I have used before and he said he'd look into finding a compatible, slightly longer stud.
as a side note, he told me the front and rear f-body studs were different part numbers. Didn't know what the difference was. guess one is longer than the other.

 

I replaced my studs with new ones when I got my wheels from a really cool guy on this board.

I don't think you'll be able to put longer ones in there without pulling the axles. The standard replacement studs barely fit back in the holes. The backing plates are in the way.

You don't have to use a hammer to put the new studs on. If you're careful, press the studs in by hand and get them to bite in to the holes. Then, very carefully put the wheel on and put start the lugnut and turn it down 'till it stops. If you've got a good enough bite on the hole, the lugnut will pull the new stud right on through once you torque it down.

- Brent

 

Hi Brent...

Just curious, why did you change the studs out? I know you didn't need to (did one get broken?)

Have you seen the pics of my new wheels? Take a look here:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/showthread...=adr+and+split

Can't wait to get my rear ones back from being widened

Shawn

 

Well, after taking my wheels off and on so many times (between the street tires and drag radials), the lugnuts wear out the threads and they start to strip out. And from the repeated on/off stresses of torquing the lugnuts it breaks down the tensile strength of the lug studs over time, so I changed them out before one broke off or a lugnut got stuck on there from being stripped. Hey man those wheels look better than I thought they would!

- Brent

 

Hmmm... sounds like it'd be a good idea to make sure I get some traction-control brake backing plates when I get my 12-bolt.

Replacing my 130,000 miles studs may be a good idea as well I guess. Does ARP make wheel studs? hmmm....

 

Of course they do Steve. Just ask Chuck Jessup about how important good wheel studs are....

- Brent

 

I wonder if it would be OK to drill an access hole in my backing plate to fit the studs through....

-Shawn

 

Can't see why not....