What advantages, from those who use it, have you seen over a standard trans mounted torque arm does it provide at the track?

 

I have one on my '97 TA - the car stays planted better. It is really fun to take off from a stop into a turn, you have to really try to get the wheels to break loose!

 

Sounds good, anyone else got any comments on it?

 

Just another comment from me - get a Zexel Torsen 2R to go along with the Traclink and whoo hoo, you will have some stick!

 

Have to ook that one up never heard of it

 

Global West also sells the Zexel-Torsen T2R. They have a good write-up on it there. Strano Parts
also sells it.

 

500 bucks from strano, that about what you paid? also wheres a good place to get the traclink i.e. least expensive

 

I bought a prototype from Zexel Torsen, I don't think it was that much. You aren't going to find this on sale anywhere, and you'll be lucky to find any price diffs on the Traclink. Probably the best you can do is buy it somewhere close to you to save on the shipping charges.

 

I like the idea of that,thanks for the idea lt4 fd,and the info on it lady in nomex. EDIT; the track link that is

I think I've got the Zexel Torson T2R in my car from factory(the Z that is) I was asking around and someone told me,dont know for sure??

 

Hey #7, you may have a Torsen diff in your car, however, it is NOT the T2R. If you can afford one of these at some point, it is worth it!

 

Thats seems pretty good in the description in the GW site. Not that much $$ the 2 mods together $1100 and some labor for the diff ehhh thanks again.
But Q; about durability how is it gonna last @ the track? I'm kinda looking for the most bullet proof I've actually been planning on a 12 bolt. But this is T2R is interesting 1K less
Tony

 

Tony, the way to go for road race is the XT T2R in your stock 10 bolt; drag race the 12 bolt. A 12 bolt is heavy. In RR you don't put the kind of stress on a rear axle that you do when you are asking it to shift at a zillion RPM from a dead stop. The T2R is a "worm gear" type posi; these are supposed to be stronger than the clutch type posis. This is a trick set-up, and yes it does cost some bux. For now you may want to put your $ in other areas of the car.

 

Heard in another post you have a cage as well Lady in Nomex, what you got and how much did it help, also how much weight, did you have to gut the interior? I also see you race with the auto trans, how that working I figure a manual would work best but just curious. BTW I really like your setup lol!

 

Guess it is not everyday you see a Gecko Ranch! My '84 TA is the race car (with roll cage), it is a manual - no autos allowed in racing. In my '97 auto TA, I have no roll cage, just SFCs (see my taglines). I did a lot of schools hot lapping in the auto, it is fine for that, however, at more advanced levels you do need a manual. Auto "drift" is a problem and so are snappy shifts that upset the car. Not to mention you being able to slow down the car more easily with a manual tranny.

 

Awsome advise, I guess my quote"ehhh thanks again" kinda sounded like a turn down.NOT I'm impressed and SOLD now.
I have close to 9K and trickle down $$ to spent on the car to start settin up.I'm mostly lookin to spend in the : Rear end...Trans/clutch(spec star complete set w/alum.flyI've been advised)...rubber...safety things...Suspension...valve train refresh...cooling.

Yea needless to say 9K wont be enough I have to prioritize...and thanx again on the Diff. idea it'll be w/ the initial setup or soon to follow YOUR SO HELPFULL
We have meet before you know? In August 02 @ T-hill,I had fried my PS,and your had probs that day also you said "Tony get a PS cooler duh"no prob since I did,I did Hpde schools all last season w/ NASA in v6 in my SN avatar(thats pics@Sears) I'll come see you next event

Tony