Front A-arm bushing question
I have almost decided what suspension mods I am doing first.
I inted to install Eibach Pro Kit, BMR Swaybars, BMR STB, BMR Box LCA and brackets and BMR APHR.
But I have not thought much about the Front A-arms. I Don't intend changing the A-arms, but what will changing the bushings to poly do? Has anyone done this? What would/does this do to the handling?
I inted to install Eibach Pro Kit, BMR Swaybars, BMR STB, BMR Box LCA and brackets and BMR APHR.
But I have not thought much about the Front A-arms. I Don't intend changing the A-arms, but what will changing the bushings to poly do? Has anyone done this? What would/does this do to the handling?
it is a must imo. makes steering crisp amd it makes it much easier to control.
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Red 1994 Formula (V8,M6,3.23)
K&N fipk,MSD blaster coil,Hooker cat back,SLP 1 3/4 headers,LT4 KM,CAM 220/229 .547/.544 112ls,Taylor Wires Over The Top,160°T-Stat,LT1 Edit,ZR1 rims 17x11,EGR!,AIR!,Meziere H2O Pump,3"Cut Out,Power slot rotors,Earl's Brake Lines,Mettallic Brake Pads,Mac Girdle,!CAT,A4 to M6 Conversion,SCR SFCs,!MAF,MAC LCAs,Kirban Shifter,!ALT,200 Amp Alt,7/16's 1.5RRs+Guide Plates,NGK TR55's,SLP STB,Polyurethane bushings everywhere,SLP Bilstiens,Susp Tech springs #63045
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Best 1/4 13.47@103.87 (no where near current)
Car is currently off the road
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Red 1994 Formula (V8,M6,3.23)
K&N fipk,MSD blaster coil,Hooker cat back,SLP 1 3/4 headers,LT4 KM,CAM 220/229 .547/.544 112ls,Taylor Wires Over The Top,160°T-Stat,LT1 Edit,ZR1 rims 17x11,EGR!,AIR!,Meziere H2O Pump,3"Cut Out,Power slot rotors,Earl's Brake Lines,Mettallic Brake Pads,Mac Girdle,!CAT,A4 to M6 Conversion,SCR SFCs,!MAF,MAC LCAs,Kirban Shifter,!ALT,200 Amp Alt,7/16's 1.5RRs+Guide Plates,NGK TR55's,SLP STB,Polyurethane bushings everywhere,SLP Bilstiens,Susp Tech springs #63045
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Best 1/4 13.47@103.87 (no where near current)
Car is currently off the road
Figured I'd bring this post back up. The Global West front control arms are on sale this month and I'm wondering if any of you have any experience with Delrin vs. Del-a-lum. I don't drive my car much at all anymore so I'm not as concerned with durability. I'm mostly concerned about performance potential. The del-a-lum is about $100 more than delrin.
Any thoughts?
Hey Roy if ya read this again check your email. Ryan and myself have been trying to reach you.
Jags I bought the upper and lower and they look sweet. Will put them on next month and see what happens.
Jags I bought the upper and lower and they look sweet. Will put them on next month and see what happens.
GW upper a-arms are very good if you're looking for more negative camber and positive caster.
The delrin bushing is good but will only last you about 2 years before replacement.
The del-a-lum will last a long long time.
If you don't want the hassle, just buy the GM 1LE upper a-arms, which don't require any greasing, and they come with harder durometer rubber bushings.
don't put poly in there.
Steve
The delrin bushing is good but will only last you about 2 years before replacement.
The del-a-lum will last a long long time.
If you don't want the hassle, just buy the GM 1LE upper a-arms, which don't require any greasing, and they come with harder durometer rubber bushings.
don't put poly in there.
Steve
Steve,
Based on your response, if longevity is the only reason to use del-a-lum, I'll go with delrin and save the money. If they'd last a street driver 2 years, they'll last me a long, long time.
Based on your response, if longevity is the only reason to use del-a-lum, I'll go with delrin and save the money. If they'd last a street driver 2 years, they'll last me a long, long time.
I'm going to dissent here. Jagsy, are your factory bushings worn out, i.e. does your car have 40K miles or more? If so, then it might be worth it to do the upper and lower 1LE arms. IMO, anything more is absolutely not needed unless you're doing serious track work. And this is coming from a guy who suffered through a re-bush of his front control arms.
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Pat Newton
'97 Formula - unstock
'85 BMW 524 turbodiesel - stock and stinky
'90 Mazda Miata - Spec Miata race car in progress
http://home.attbi.com/~patricknewton/f-body/formula.htm
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Pat Newton
'97 Formula - unstock
'85 BMW 524 turbodiesel - stock and stinky
'90 Mazda Miata - Spec Miata race car in progress
http://home.attbi.com/~patricknewton/f-body/formula.htm
Bob,
Check out http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.htm#Tubular Front upper control arm kit
Both bushing versions are on sale this month for about $50 off.
[This message has been edited by 94bird (edited July 25, 2002).]
Check out http://www.globalwest.net/camaro93.htm#Tubular Front upper control arm kit
Both bushing versions are on sale this month for about $50 off.
[This message has been edited by 94bird (edited July 25, 2002).]
I would be very careful about ordering the 1LE lower A arms, or any 1LE suspension parts. I just got what was supposed to be 1LE lower A arms, but the part #'s that came in were the standard arms. When I called another dealer to check on the #'s, he said that the 1LE A arm part #'s crossed over to the regular #'s because the 1LE parts were no longer available. I tried to order the 1LE front and rear springs, but the same thing happened with the part #'s, so I didn't order them.
I'd be interested to know if anyone has been able to get the real 1LE bushings for the lower A arms recently. I'd like to swap out the outer soft bushing for the 1LE before I install the arms. I'll be installing the GW uppers.
Bob Bishop
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lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
I'd be interested to know if anyone has been able to get the real 1LE bushings for the lower A arms recently. I'd like to swap out the outer soft bushing for the 1LE before I install the arms. I'll be installing the GW uppers.
Bob Bishop
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lateapex@worldnet.att.net
'94 Z28 with C5 front brakes and other road racing stuff
just redid my suspension...lower springs,hals,subframe,1le sways and upper/lower a's from bmr, plus the usual rear end stuff. I wish I had a chance to put stuff on piece by piece but that would be impossible. The A arms seem to tighten up the steering feedback, the overall effect is like being on rails. I can't be certain what does what, i suspect a lot has to do with shaving weight from the shock on both ends and tha a arms and then putting it 3-4" below the axles in the subframes might be what I'm feeling most. New dilema-the tighter I make the suspension the more precise and overall precise and clean everything feels, but the ride becomes unrealistic for street use. Can't wait to get it on a course at ultrastiff settings...my seat mounts have recieved way too much stress and are working themselves loose. That's a good thing.
i had the shop do my front a-arm bushings. the car had about 60K miles and i also autox.
they put red Prothane bushings in there and i did notice an improvement in turn-in. just smoother. transition is smoother from turn-in to turn-out. the old bushings were so crushed and hard the guy said he had to use a blowtorch to get em off!
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94 Z28 LT1 M6 black
CAGS eliminated, K&N intake and filter, - 4 carbonmetallic pads, SLP: airfoil, strut tower brace, 1LE RLCA, 1LE panhard rod, 1LE front sway bar, alum diff cover, flywheel/pp/disk, Global West weld-in tubular SFCs, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni SA, B&M Ripper, RE730 245/50/16, GS-CS 255/50/16(autox)
they put red Prothane bushings in there and i did notice an improvement in turn-in. just smoother. transition is smoother from turn-in to turn-out. the old bushings were so crushed and hard the guy said he had to use a blowtorch to get em off!
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94 Z28 LT1 M6 black
CAGS eliminated, K&N intake and filter, - 4 carbonmetallic pads, SLP: airfoil, strut tower brace, 1LE RLCA, 1LE panhard rod, 1LE front sway bar, alum diff cover, flywheel/pp/disk, Global West weld-in tubular SFCs, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni SA, B&M Ripper, RE730 245/50/16, GS-CS 255/50/16(autox)


