i am going to be in need of a clutch soon. i was wondering if there was any reason for me to get a certain or special clutch for my car. its mainly a daily driver with some mountian runs here and there and id like to start autox for fun. i figure i wont need anything special, but im just checking. also what would yall recomend. id like it to be reasonably priced and work well. im not interested in a something like the street twin as drag launches will not be very often. thanks Trey

 

In my 95 Formula, I got 90K miles out of the stock clutch with over 150 1/4 miles passes, lots of autox and a good number of Driver's Ed track days (roadcourse). Car was modded with around 285-290RWHP. While I haven't had the LT4 Firehawk for long, I think I like the SLP flywheel and pressure plate, but you may not need these. Anyway, my recommendation, is just go with a stock replacement unless you are planning on making huge amounts of power.

 

no i was just curious to know if there was any reason to get a better clutch than stock. ill prolly go with something a little stronger, but i just didnt know if my stock clutch would hold up very well. so yea thanks for the reply. Trey

 

I have heard good things about zoom clutches on stock motor cars. I have a spec stage one and it sucks.

 

A lot of folks I know get the Z06 clutch, pressure plate and pump, and like it a lot. This includes some folks pulling 450-475 HP in their LS1 Camaros.

 

He has a LT1 (96), not an LS1.

 

I have heard a lot of good things about the SLP setup, LT4pp and SLP disk.

I believe most, if not all, aftermarket clutches use the LT4 pp anyway.

FWIW,I think i am going with a Spec Stage 2 setup.

 

I love my Mcloed twin disk clutch.
Its the only clutch that hooks like none other.
But maintains the characteristics of a stock clutch.
And will last twice as long as stock.

Most of the aftermarket clutch company's simply reduce clutch material in order to increase psi on the clutch disk and fly wheel. Centerforce uses that along with some centrifical weights to make the springs work better on the pressure plate. This is all good and plenty if your drag racing with a tall gear and slicks. But kinda sucks on a daily driver street car.

Basically stick to the stock one. Unless your beaten the crap out of your car and you daily drive such as i do.

I did a lot of research on the subject so if ya have any other ques let me know.
Good Luck Mike

 

thanks mike. i baby the car for the most part until i get in some mountains or on the autox. i also drive this car everywhere everyday. ive been looking too and it seems like the best thing for me is to just get an LT4 PP and use a stock LT1 clutch. thanks. trey

 

I went w/ SLP clutch, PP and I got their lightened flywheel. I HAD a centerforce clutch, which actually ran fine, I took it out because of a bearing that was going bad and I assumed the clutch was bad, so its in good shape with about 3k miles on it But when my SLP clutch/flywheel came the box was so light that I was wondering where the flywheel was... It was in there too, I guess the Centerforce was just that heavy. I have a very responsive throttle now

--Kevin

 

i went with the lt4 clutch. Yes all aftermarket clutches come with the LT4 pressure plate... *exception-mccleod might not.. not sure*

The Stage 3 blew up on me for some reason. I believe they were having a quality control issue on a batch because 5 people at around the same time stage 3's took a **** on them.

Im happy with the LT4 clutch... grips better but still stockish.. But im not sure if the throw out bearing is naturally noisy or if the spec 3 explosion damaged my input shaft alittle bit and causes the TO to rattle just a bit.

U never really hear people complain about LT4 clutchs, SLP clutchs or THe mccleod clutchs. I'd stick to those personally.

 

dug this one up | i have a question

Can someone explain the relationship between the throwout bearing, the pilot bearing, the input shaft, and the clutch & pressure plate?? this is the first manual car i've owned and my 60k original clutch is on it's way out.

symptoms include:
1) clutch not grabbing on hard launches or hard shifts
2) short shudder through the car right at the friction/grabbing point when the car is starting from a stop under load (hills, passengers); some have said this is a bad pilot bearing?

thanks! Brian

 

I'll give this a try. It's kindof difficult without visual aids but here goes....

The flywheel is bolted to the engine, specifically the crankshaft. Anytime the engine is running, the flywheel spins with it. In the center of the flywheel is a hole. A shaft from the transmission is inserted into this hole, and is connected directly to the engine. On this shaft slide the friction plate and the throwout bearing.
Purpose of the pressure plate is to connect(through friction) the transmission to the engine(flywheel). The throwout bearing is just there to help make this happen smoothly.

The pressure plate is where all the action is. When you push the clutch in, you are making the throwout bearing push against some "finger" springs which allow the friction surface to disengag from the flywheel. When you let it out, the springs go back to their rest position and exert a force against the friction plate, which pushes against the flywheel, allowing connection to the flywheel.

Whew......

The hydraulic system is just there to help gain leverage against the springs in the pressure plate. The higher the springs, ususally, the more force is pushed against the friction surfaces(kind of like taking a harder grip on a jar that won't open)
Hope this helps....

 

Trey,

FWIW we tend to use either the Centerforce, SLP or Sachs. The SLP is my choice for a couple of reasons. If you do not want to replace you flywheel, you still lose some weight because of the drilled pressure plate. This is good since you are into corner carving and such. Plus the pressure plate is stronger, but very driveable too. You don't have to be the Hulk to press the pedal.

That said I like the SLP flywheel too. It's not the lightest, but is noticeably lighter than stock. This make the car rev quicker and generally gives quicker, more crisp response both on and off the gas. It's billet, so it's strong, though blowing up flywheels isn't too common.

You can run the SLP flywheel with the Centerforce or a Sachs as well if you wish.....

The Sachs is bacially a complete kit, including a pilot bearing and alignment too. It's not a super strong clutch, but a touch stronger than the OE one. It's also $329 compared to the others. And the stock clutch got you this far.....

 

haha werd. thanks man, that helped a lot; i'm looking to order an SLP clutch kit and i see that they offer the pressure plate + t.o.bearing for $260 and a clutch disc (same as friction plate?) for $90. Is the frictin plate a separate item that I need or is that a wear item that already comes with the pressureplate package?? thanks.

i've also been advised to order from places like Stealth Perf. or Texas Speed rather than SLP to avoid s/h complications?

THANKS people - Brian