BMR suspension
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 154
From: Oklahoma City, OK
BMR suspension
What is the difference between the box and the tubular lower control arms? Is it just looks or performance? Also, what are the advantages solid ends have over polyurethane or viceversa and the adjustable type over non-adjustable? Thanks for your help.
Last edited by Kearn; Jan 12, 2003 at 06:50 PM.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 52
From: Stuart, Florida
Tubular is generally lighter than boxed. However, boxed arms usually offer more weld area for greater strength. Adjustable links permit custom camber & caster settings for the front suspension and custom axle centering or pinion angle changes for rear. Too many adjustable links and you may spend a LONG time getting your alignment dialed-in (ie. front upper and lower arms with 2 adjustable links each would probably be challenging)
As for the benefits and compromises between polyurethane vs rod-ends/spherical bearings, do a search on that subject. There have been many heated debates on this aspect over the past month as a minimum. At the risk of lighting another fuse, I prefer to stay away from poly. Enough said here.
Rick R
As for the benefits and compromises between polyurethane vs rod-ends/spherical bearings, do a search on that subject. There have been many heated debates on this aspect over the past month as a minimum. At the risk of lighting another fuse, I prefer to stay away from poly. Enough said here.
Rick R
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 117
From: Sterling, VA
Tubular should be more than strong enough (look at the stock arm!). Try to get rod ended or poly/rod if you can. I got adjustable just so I know I can dial in whatever is needed. If you've lowered your car, get the LCA lowering brackets (weld-in only). Try to get the arms parallel to the ground (off the jack of course 
). I got Spohn's Poly/rodended adjustable arms. I would probably get rod/rod next time, but not for performance reasons, just easier not having to grease them and different wear rates for different types of materials. LGs are expensive, but I would believe that they would use the highest quality rodends out of all the other brands out here. Cheap ones will still work fine but rattle rather early in their life. You can later replace them w/ better ends too. There are catalogs of ends w/ different ratings that you can order (from like $6 to, i dont know maybe $150???).
There is argument as to wether this part really needs to be replaced at all that I've seen a lot on this board. Everyone seems to, but that always doesnt mean that its needed I just followed the herd on this one MOOO!
--Kevin
). I got Spohn's Poly/rodended adjustable arms. I would probably get rod/rod next time, but not for performance reasons, just easier not having to grease them and different wear rates for different types of materials. LGs are expensive, but I would believe that they would use the highest quality rodends out of all the other brands out here. Cheap ones will still work fine but rattle rather early in their life. You can later replace them w/ better ends too. There are catalogs of ends w/ different ratings that you can order (from like $6 to, i dont know maybe $150???).There is argument as to wether this part really needs to be replaced at all that I've seen a lot on this board. Everyone seems to, but that always doesnt mean that its needed
I just followed the herd on this one MOOO!--Kevin
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