I was thinking
1. 35mm/21mm sway bars
2. DD SFC
3. 550# springs/ground control/Re-valved Bilstiens
4. STB
5. Rear end components (PHB, LCA, etc)?

Is this the best order to go in when upgrading the suspension? Is a daily driver and plan on doing some autocross next year. I will be in SM class anyway, because I will doing 4.10's this winter.

 

I'd do it more like:
1. Tires
2. Springs/Shocks
3. Sway Bars
4. SFC
5. Rear end stuff

Tires are your biggest suspension benefit. STB is probably optional, or after all the above. Sway bars I'd decide on what to use after you feel what the tires, springs and shocks are doing right or wrong. SFC, unless you've got a convertible, could probably wait a bit.

Dave

 

Depends on whether you're looking for quick thrills by doing the things you'll feel most first, or a logical plan to setup your car, given where you want to end up.

The logical plan is to first stiffen the chassis (sfc, stb) then stiffen the suspension bits (phr, lca), then do the mods that are not easily tweaked (springs, shocks). Then tires, and finally tune the car with the sways. You may be making a different choice there when you see how the car handles, and they're the way to tune the chassis you've built up.

 

I kept stock 1LE stuff on the car for oh probably 6 years....then put a set of KB DD on it. Then it stayed that way for another couple years....learned my lesson on solid LCA's. Put on some rod end'd LCA's and panhard rod.


then it all just went to hell and I changed everything.

 

Suspension wise:

1. Sway Bars
2. Springs/Shocks
3. PHR
4. Bushings
5. T2R Diff
6. Torque Arm
7. SFC
8. LCA
9. STB

Tires are a big variable depending on what you'll be doing. You'll probably need 2 sets, one for street, one for autocross.

 

The absolutely best first mod would be tires. I would recommend the Nitto 555R II, I've used them on several of my cars and love them. Also, you can use them as a street tire too, just realize that they have a short life for a street tire (up to 15K for street only, less when combined with track use), and once they are down to the wear bars the wet traction starts to go away. After the tires, it really depends on how far you want to go with your car. In general though, I'd agree with stiffening the chasis first (subframes, stb) so the suspension can work to its full potential, then start on the suspension itself (springs, sway bars, etc).

 

Yeah, that is on the high side, but it is doable. The main thing with mileage on the 555R IIs is if you use them for autox/roadcourse at all, if you do they wear a lot quicker. For just street use they will last a good while if they are treated and maintained well.

 

I'm surprised any of you are recommending anything before the sub frame connectors.

First, stiffen up your chassis. If you do other mods before that, and get the suspension stiffened up and not the chassis, you may loosen up the chassis more than necessary. Get the sub frame connectors on there before you loosen up the chassis to the point you can't get it tight again.

I did Bilsteins before the SFCs, but that's because I thought I had as bad front shock. I just ordered my sub frame connectors and should have them installed in a couple of weeks. For $150, they are the best insurance to have before you start doing a bunch of suspension mods.

Just my opinion.

Dan

 

I'll say it again. SFC's only make minor changes to your handling. You want to effect your handling, make suspension changes. You want to get rid of every last wiggle or shake, add SFC's. First, they're illegal in stock or street prepared classes. I know guys running stock that will run circles around people with SFC's.

I'm not saying that SFC's don't make a difference, I know they do. but I'll guarantee, take two cars with identical mods but the only difference is SFC's, there will be no quantifiable difference in autocross times.

These cars aren't as bad (in terms of stiffness) as you all are giving them credit for. Sure, convertables can use more stiffness than the rest, but.... And yes, I use a STB but I can't feel any difference there either. I just use it because I need to do everything allowed within the rules. Could it make a .1 of a second difference, maybe. Sort of like LCA's. If seen test that point to .1 second or so in 60ft times but at what cost?? Money and harsher ride.

Spend your money where you can measure and FEEL a difference first. Go back later and add the rest.

 

Steve,

I agree with you 100%, except for what to do first.

The SFC's are more for insurance than handling. I want them on my car because I plan to keep it indefinately. I want the chassis to stay rigid, and not develop squeeks and rattles early. SFC's are not a suspension mod at all in my opinion, they are a chassis mod, designed to let the vehicle handle the abuse the upgraded suspension will throw at it.

If you are strictly talking autocross, in a class where SFC's are prohibited, than that makes your decision right there. Don't use them, but for ANY class that allows them, it would be my first mod. Not from the standpoint of getting better times, or better handling, but to keep the car in better shape over time. That's all.

I think we are just looking at it from two different perspectives. Me, a daily driver who wants better handling and a durable chassis, and you, a driver that also is heavy into autox.

Dan

 

So far, the only thing that rattles on mine is the panhard rod (rod ends) and my cat (shot). My car has 153,000 miles on it and has no rattles at all!

 

I'm glad to hear it. You have more experience in suspension mods and autox than I do, so I defer to your knowledge, but like I said, to me, they are insurance, and well worth the small price.

I know they are not necessary, and I had to wrestle with myself to buy them before I upgrade my swaybars, but I think I made the right choice to get the SFC's first, if for nothing other than piece of mind. Others have noticed a big difference when they were installed, but maybe that's because their chassis was beat up. I know mine is in great shape, and I want to keep it that way, hence, my decision to buy SFC's first.

Dan

 

I like to steer people towards getting SFCs right away. You can show yourself why this is an important mod easily by doing the following before and after you get SFCs. Find the worst railroad track crossing in your area and drive over it at speed. What happens without SFCs is the car wants to hunt around and it will take some steering input to get the car going straight again. Try this with SFCs and you should not have to struggle for control. Pretty kewl!

 

Once again, it depends on what they're going to do with their car. Without knowing that you might be steering them in the wrong direction.

Also, try the train track thing with original shocks and good shocks and see the difference.

 

I'll stick by my guns here. SFCs make a difference in rough road handling, and help with those rattles that will develop without SFCs. If folks are going to drive the car in a manner that pushes it (all of us here fit that description) those rattles will develop quicker, so SFCs are a win-win first mod. After the SFCs are installed, then you can merrily go about installing other handling mods with the maximum benefit. Eliminating a good deal of unibody flex by installing SFCs is a big positive in the whole handling equation. There is a trickle down effect.