sandmanljs

I finally decided on powerslot rotors and hawk pads(HPS's). Some on another board said I wouldnt see much of an improvment over stock the the above combo, with out changing brake lines.

Id be getting that package deal from thunder racing for like 540 or so in a GP.

Is there much truth to that statment(not much if any improvment from rotor and pad swap)? What you guys say could save me some money, but id rather have improved braking.
I ramble to freaking much, are installing brake lines that difficult, im assuming id have to flush out the fluid. Thanks for all the help before, and thanks in advance for the help on this.

chuck

I don't buy into the whole braided lines thing. I do however think that bleeding the brakes with decent fluid will make more difference than any rotors or lines you can install. Stainless lines are supposed to improve pedal feel. I think most people do feel an improvement after they install new lines. But I think the change is from the fresh fluid, not the lines. Now pads will make more of a difference in stopping distance than anything other than tires.

LPEdave

The pads, and as Chuck says, good new fluid will help. Unless your rotors are shot, replacing them won't help any.

Yes, you'd have to bleed the system well after installing stainless lines. Not a huge deal, but you'll definitely have air in all the lines after doing it.

Dave

Dr.Mudge

No way, what flexes more under high pressure, steel or rubber? I think rubber is the answer. Your firewall will also flex under hard breaking, thats just how things work, stainless steel lines RULE. Plus, in theory you should never, ever have to change them again.

sandmanljs

You guys are awesome. Based on the advice ive gotten i this thread and the other on i started ill be getting that pacage deal from thunder. Thanks again. Hopefully ill be asking more autoX related questions, the seach is going very slowly for events in my area. Thanks again.

chuck

Yes way. For one, OEM lines are NOT just rubber. Cut one open and you will see. The pecal in my car is ROCK hard with OEM lines that have 24K miles. Braided lines actually have a storter MTBF than OEM lines; call the manufacturer of your lines or check out their website.

Dr.Mudge

I suppose its possible, that the mesh being worked back and forth could be a problem. There is at least one company not doing steel lines, but some other very hard material, forget what it is. Some kind of poly-plastic.

I've never seen MTBF specs for lines, I suppose they must be around somewhere, but I've had better luck so far with steel lines. At what point anything special was put in the center of a rubber line I am not aware of it, because I've seen a few cracked completely through before, and if anything was there it may have been a fibrous woven matieral that isn't going to make the rubber last any longer on the outside.

warner

For 300 bucks you could put on a set of LS1 brakes. I know a guy who did what you are considering and ended up putting on the LS1's. Says the LS1 is much better than the powerslots and Hawk pads.

sandmanljs

Ive thought about the LS1 brakes, but i still need pads and rotors on all 4 corners. Also, ill eventually be putting on a larger rotor and bigger calipers(like a baer system) on all four. So it dosnt really make sense to upgrade, then upgrade again.

Thanks for the imput guys. I jsut hope i can start asking you about autoX techniques and whatnot, but there seems to be a lack of intrest in autoX and/or road racing around here.

rmackintosh

Braided Stainless Steel lines DO MAKE A DIFFERENCE. I raced for years with rubber lines, because "who could justify spending so much on a couple of 8 inch peices of line", but when I finally made the switch there was a difference. I used to see guys putting a zillion cable ties on the rubber lines to stop the flex.

Now this is 100% race track environment I am talking about....for the street or auto cross....they may be way overkill and not necessary.

Randy

All_Z_Way

Look over at LS1.com ...there is a bigger f-body group of auto-xer's and road racer's then here and some of are on both.

The LS1 group is made up of both LT1 and LS1 folks.

Dr.Mudge

I dont know if anyone has ever figured it out, but 13.1" rotors on LS1 calipers has been discussed in the past.

Dr.Mudge

I believe he means lack of interest where he lives(?), if so, unfortunately that is what I'd say is true most everywhere. Even import guys with lighter cars, what do they do mostly, put huge wings on the car and drag race...

I believe there is some nylon string or some kind of "reinforcement" inside rubber lines, but steel lines still blow them away for braking. Even if they do die faster, which I'm not aware of, I still prefer them. For my "other car" my steel lines ran me $59 for all four

JJ's95B4C

Is there any specific brake fluid that is above the rest, or are most of them the same? I ask b/c i'm doing the LS1 brake upgrade and I need to bleed the system so i'm going to go ahead and put fresh fluid in there.

Dr.Mudge

If you want a good fluid, find something with a dry boiling point of 570º or above.

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...threadid=81867

See this recent thread for some suggestions.