Hello all. I'm going to be taking my 01 Z up to New Hampshire International Speedway for the first time this week (SCDA event).

The suspension is completely stock (didn't want to change anything before I actually see what needs to be changed!). And I was wondering if anyone could offer any insight into the handling I should expect. Is it pretty neutral or prone to under/over steer?

I'm also running the 16" wheels for the moment, so any recommendations for tire pressure? Should I expect a lot of roll with 16"?

And the last thing, I'm not all too experienced with suspension. I ordered Watt's book on suspension, but does anyone have any other reading suggestions? I got a book, jack stands, and a wrench; point me to the track!

Thanks in advance!

 

:: Dave falls over in shock ::

The car will probably understeer a bit, but for your first event(s) at the track, it's the least of your worries. Get some good seat time, learn the ropes, and you'll be fine.

Some reading suggestions at http://www.ncracing.org/instruction.html and you could read up on flags if you want, at http://www.ncracing.org/flags.html

Have fun!
Dave

 

SCDA runs a decent event. You won't be disappointed. I have run Watkins Glen and Lime Rock with them.

Stock Z28...

Do you have autocross experience?

Trackwise, I have run my 98 Z28 completely stock, then run it with a 35mm front bar and rear Bilsteins, then run it with the bar, the Bilsteins and Koni single adjustables on the front. All on 16" wheels.

The first thing that you will likely notice are the limitations of the stock deCarbon shocks. When transitioning off the corners, the car will likely have two movements instead of one while the shocks work to settlethe car. The car will wallow (quickly) while you are feeding the throttle. This will only be slightly unsettling and someday you will likely want to eliminate this with better shocks.

Brakes. Saturday, I glazed the front NAPA Ceramix pads on my Z28 at Beaver Run. They glazed and have a bunch of cracks in them. Trashed. Pay attention to your brakes and how they behave throughout the runs. You may want to consider flushing the brake system and putting in DOT 4 fluid before the event. You may also want to consider taking a spare set of quality front pads with you if you are driving the car to/from the event. I had a 3 hour drive with no brakes once 2 years ago... Not fun.

Do not go onto the track with less than 1/2 tank. Because of where the fuel pickup is in the tank, you risk starvation when cornering. I have heard of 2 LS1 occurances of people starving the fuel, leaning out the fuel/air mixture and burning pistons...

Power Steering - If you don't have a cooler, expect to burn the fluid. After each run (regardless of whether or not you have a cooler), take off the resevior cap to relieve pressure. I don't have a cooler and turn Red Line PS fluid brown/black after less than 60 total minutes on the track. I use a turkey baster to suck out the burnt stuff and top off with fresh fluid throughout the day.

Tire pressures - I ran 36 front, 32 rear on Saturday on my 245/45R16 Yokohama AVS Intermediates. Most people will tell you this is too low. Err on the side of higher pressures and bring them down as necessary (talk to your instructor - he is a valuable resource). Correct tire pressures vary by tire and tire construction. There will likely be other experienced f-body drivers there to talk to.

Get yourself ready for a brand-new additition.

 

Thanks for the advice! I've flushed my brake fluid and put in Motul (by the advice of a few people). I also took the car in to this really good local shop and asked them to take a look at everything. They told me all is well. So sounds like I didn't forget anything then. Cool. I'm really looking forward to this so I just wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something dumb.

BTW, why:
Are there some mods people make right away? Ya know, stuff that you have to change no matter what you're going to do?

Well, thanks again, I really appreciate all the help!!!

 

Go out and enjoy. You will have a blast and will probably get hooked like the rest of us.

I would also think that bone stock your car will tend to push or understeer some.

Since you have changed your brake fluid, that is the best start you can probably do. Make sure you have plenty of brake pads on both ends of the car. A real good pad is a help on the front too.

 

Because most people mod the crap out of the car and have never been on a road course.

You are going about it very smart ... I wish there were more like you ...

 

Just did my first track day yesterday at Nelson Ledges. Fun fun fun!
Take your torque wrench and recheck the lugs after every run.

I would recommend either draining or taping over the vent holes on the washer fluid reservoir, I have blue specs all over everything under the hood.

Second, brake pads. I ran the stock pads and they gave up on me after about 15 laps. There are only three places where I was braking hard, but when they faded it was a little hairy. Get some better ones.

I am running 255 / 16 hoosiers all around on the stock wheels. I started at 35 front and 30 rear. After ten fast laps the pressure was up to 43 / 36 which was too high. I bled them down to 36 / 30 hot and felt thety worked well at that setting. I haven't checked to see what they are cold yet. Start somewhere reasonable and check them hot to see where they are and adjust from there.

As everyone says, it takes seat time. Practice heel / toe techniques, gotta do it well if you want to be fast.
You will have a blast!. Mike

 

So I'm not screwed since I haven't changed my pads or rotors or anything then? I just figured since it's the first time I'm going, I won't be that rough on the car. Thanks.

 

For your first time out, this stuff will likely be OK. You will be focusing on the track, the line and being smooth. As the day progresses and you get more aggressive, just pay special attention to the brakes. If you experience some fade, move your braking points a little earlier and take some less aggressive laps for a while (or pit in after a cool down lap).

However, if you are going to buy decent spare pads to take with you anyway, you may want to take the time to changeover to them and make your current pads your backup pads...

 

Wow. Everyone was 100% right! That was great! A few things have become very obvious, though. Brakes!

Since it was my first time, I wasn't nearly as hard on the brakes as a lot of other people were. Still, I could feel them start to fade towards the end of the session. So I'm thinking that this is going to be my first project.

Now, I've read posts on brakes both here and on ls1.com and the debate on rotors seems very, very heated. A lot of people say just get the autozone ones and a lot of other people swear by the race ones.

I'm thinking that (if we ignore the stopping distance debate) slotted rotors must be better for the track because they'll stay a bit cooler. Cooler pads, rotors, and fluid will decrease fade. So even if we assume that stopping distance won't be improved with the slotted rotors, they are still a better bet for the track. Is this right? If so, any suggestions for decent slotted or drilled rotors?

Also, since my main objective here is to decrease fade, should I be looking at calipers as well or will the stock ones do? Thanks in advance!

BTW, I've scheduled for another track day in June. I love this stuff!!!

 

Oh... You are now officially a crack addict!!

As for rotors, I just run blanks. I am sure the slotted might last longer, but not sure long enough to justify the cost difference. JMHO

Soon you will want bigger brakes, IE.. C5 ugrade, Stoptech or something.... I can predict it now.

Glad you enjoyed. Several us are off to Texas World Speedway next weekend.

 

Try adding some ductong to keep your brakes cooler. Like you, I've heard AutoZone blank rotors work well. Brake ducts are my next upgrade.

 

Brake suggestion--I just finished my first track day at Road Atlanta with my 98SS. I ran Hawk HP Plus pads and Power Slot rotors on the front, Motul 600 fluid, and stock pads and rotors on the back. In three approx 15 minute sessions, I had no brake fade. This was a cheap upgrade, and it worked well.