No luck on the LT1 board so I thought that I would try here. I know the 1LE sway bars are much, much cheaper than the Hotchkis.I never thought it was possible to have too much bar but the Hotchkis bars look like monsters. Are they worth the price premium over a set of 1LEs with maybe a set of poly end links? Anybody have the Hotchkis bars? How do you like them? If it helps, eventually I'm going to have 17" SS wheels (SLP) with G-force KDW tires (Tire Rack?). Thanks.

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1996 Z28 m6
Hurst shifter, SLP CAI, Granatelli MAF, 1LE elbow, TPS airfoil, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back, Carbon Metallic Z-rated brake pads, steel braided brake lines, Mobil 1, one very heavy right foot

 

If all you wanted were HUGE bars, you could go with Suspension Techniques. 35mm solid/25mm solid. Of course the Hotchkis would be lighter, at least the front is hollow, not sure about thier rear.

 

"I never thought it was possible to have too much bar"

From "Tune to Win" by Carroll Smith:

"Too much anti-roll bar:

Car will be very sudden in turning response.
Will tend to slide or skate rather than taking a set
May dart over one wheel or diagonal bumps"

The early 1LE bars will increase oversteer a bit. The Suspension Techniques bars will have more oversteer than I'd be comfortable with.

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2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS
KBDDs, BMR STB and Panhard, 245/50-16 GSCs

 

Although everyone's experience, talent and skill sets are different I couldn't agree more with this statement. The ST f35mm/r25mm combo was way to stiff with my Eibach Progressive springs and Bilstein shocks.

IMHO, that kind of stiffness requires a *very* smooth & *experienced* driving style and very quick reactions. In addition I wouldn't run a very stiff spring with that bar.

I found that the ST combo can be very detrimental and frustrating for a beginner. I'd say it was akin to straping on the fastest set of skis to a novice. MHO.

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Ken sends...
<A HREF="http://www.fbody-event.org" TARGET=_blank>7th Annual National Fbody Motorsports Event
6/13-15 @ Memphis Motorsports Park
Road Course School, Drag Racing, Autocross, Car Show...
We Do It All!</A>

 

I had the ST bars and got rid of them from feedback from others, mostly due to the springs I have. Some say the front bar is ok, I've talked to a guy who ran both and said people are full of BS and they are fine, blah blah, everyone has thier own opinions but I think its obvious it would depend on the combination, as noted above (springs).

 

I have had the Hotchkiss bars on my 1996 Formula for several years & like the handling. However I have the factory springs & ride height so not able to comment for a lowered car. Pricewise they are comparable to most aftermarket sets. On my 1998 grand prix I am using an impala 34 mm front bar which was much cheaper thru gmparts direct. Some of the gp guys have researched the gm parts bin & found some interchangeable parts from police packages etc. On the g. prix I have an aftermarket rear s. bar but it cost $ 160-. Also to the contrary I find my Formula to be a much better car than the g. prix. The g. prix is my commuter car & the gas mileage on regular gas is hard to beat.

 

does hotchkis have a website? if not where can i get them at?

 

www.hotchkis.net
www.summitracing.com sells them also

They ARE expensive indeed, but again they are hollow (lighter).

 

check out the BMR kits, they include 32/21mm bars, endlinks, and poly bushings. very good upgrade, just did it to my 96Z...
not too bad price either...

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ARREST-ME RED 96 Z-28, M6...stock for now...but i've only had it three days...1st mod on day 4! TB airfoil...NOW...G2 CAI(modified), K&N, MagnaFlow w/ cutout(closed of course), maf ends, ?cags?, UD pulley, TB bypass, 160stat, SLP fan switch, SLP air temp module, Hypertech PTM, Hurst(SS donation) with a Lou's SStick and Proform Shiftlight, BMR lca, phb and stb, 32/21mm sway bars w/ poly bushings and endlinks, ES poly TA mount, air silencer???

Waiting to go on: 1LE springs, SLP afpr

For Sale: stock exhaust+ sq. tips, 30/19mm sway bars w/ stock bushings

 

to install, is it just unbolt the old ones, and bolt on the new ones? no welding?

edit: when it comes with the bushings, does it come with the brackets that hold the bushings? (see the black brackets that hold the sway bar on in the pic http://www.bmrfabrication.com/swayba...-installed.jpg

teke, how do you like the kit? notice a difference? have you lowered you 96 or is it stock height?

[This message has been edited by BigBlockChevy (edited April 03, 2002).]

 

Definately no welding, bars are 'free floating' other than thier bushings and endlinks.

 

I also am of the opinion that "you can't have a big enough bar". I am running the SLP 35mm front bar with the zero deflection end links. It is quite light, and so I suspect it is hollow.

The rear bar is the SLP 21mm bar.

Otherwise stock suspension and ride height.

The car is very flat on the turns,and very responsive to steering input, but at times I think it needs more rear bar, ie 25mm, or perhaps poly bushings on the rear.

Hope this helps

LWM

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95 A4, SLP catback, KBDD sfc, airfoil, Vortech S-trim, 30# SVO injectors, Autometer electric FP guage, boost guage, Hotchkis STB, AS&M headers, AFPR, Vortech Aftercooler, 3.125" blower pulley, 7" crank pulley, Vigilante 2,800 stall, MSD 6 BTM, SLP 35mm front bar, SLP 21mm rear bar, LT-1 editor ... , 437hp at the wheels. --- members.shaw.ca/mackenzl/LWMsZ-28/LWMsZ-28.html ... 01 vert in the making ...

 

You should be correct then, because the 35mm solid weighs a ton and a half.

 

I know this is an OLD topic, but wouldn't having the larger rear bar be beneficial if you are running a larger tire outback than outfront?

 

If you're battling understeer - yes.


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+33 cube/- $$$$ mod

"Real men drive opposite lock."