I have some air bubbles between the window and the tint film on my passenger's side window. I know the water bubbles eventually disappear when it sits in the sun for a little, but will bubbles with just air in them disappear or do I have to rip it off and redo it?

 

If the tint is recently applied, and you can squeegee (?) them out, that's the way to go.

Otherwise, park your car in the sun and get a straight pin. Poke 1 hole in the bubble and work the air out from it. You'll have a very tiny hole that could be visible, but it won't be the big nasty bubble anymore. By parking in the sun, you're helping the glue adhere to the glass too. That will help keep the tint from 'sucking' air back in through the little hole you made and remaking the bubble.

 

i wouldnt poke holes....it doesnt look good at all in my opinion

 

I understand your feelings toward that, but if the glue is set, there are few options to get the air out of the tint. If you do it properly, you can get away with one very small pin-***** for each bubble. I think it's a minor trade-off for a window full of bubbles.

 

I guess I should've said pin-hole instead

 

thats true....but if i were doing it,id do the whole window over again

 

That's always an option. I guess it isn't stated if the problem is with a fresh tint job or not. I haven't yet *knock on wood* had any of the tint jobs I've done bubble up. I guess it depends on how perfect of a tint job the person is looking for.

 

I did the window 2 days ago, so the glue is set. I'll poke a few and see what it turns out like, but something tells me I'll be doing it over again. After screwing up so many times, I can actually do a near perfect job. But on this window I used my own application fluid (water + dish soap) and I think I mixed too much soap.. therefore giving me air bubbles.

 

Last few times I tinted, I pretty much eyeballed the soap-to-water ratio. A couple days ago, I read somewhere that you should only use 1 drop of soap in your sprayer. I guess that may depend on how big of a bottle you use.

One other thing I found out. If you but the Wal-Mart/Auto Zone/wherever pre-packaged "tinting-kit", it helps if you make the squeege blade shorter. I think I trimmed a few inches off of it. This allows you to work in curved areas better and you can exert more p.s.i. when you're trying to really push those pesky bubbles out.

hehe, one more thought In retrospect, when I did the windows on my doors, I should've taken the time to take the 4-5ish screws out and take the interior panels off of the doors. This would've allowed me to get the tint below the inside weather stripping better and prevented the tint from being torn up at the bottom.

 

I had a few bubbles on my tint

Note that these aren't the bubbles that were supposed to dry away after not rolling down the windows, these formed mysteriously.

I fixed it by using Stoner's Invisible Glass, and working away the bubble, i eventually got it out.

Try it and see if that works for you.

If not, i'm sorry.

 

ive had mine done professionally so i cant say what to do....but i have tinte other windows and its really easy.....but our windows are just harder....have u guys tried doing the rear hatch...that looks like a major BIOTCH

 

stik6shift98 , I can say that it really wasn't too bad to do the back glass. You start at the bottom of the window and work your way to the top, overlapping just a little bit. You do it this way to keep the tint from catching air when you drive with the windows down.

The worst looking part is the paint dots at the top. I've heard of people sanding them down to get the tint to stick to the glass better.

I even cut my own strips. I happened to have an 8-foot table at my house, so I took a piece of metal trim (cause a wood yard stick might not be straight) and masking-taped the tint to the table, measured off 8" wide sections and cut them myself.

Honestly, this tint job was the 1st one that I ever did, and the only complaints I have with that back glass are where the tint didn't stick completely @ the bottom.

 

what do u mean overlapping......
so the rear window was done in strips....???/

also did u take the hatch of cuz it seems like it would be a lot easier.....

 

Yea, it's almost impossible to get a flat piece of tint to conform to a curved shape like the back glasses in our cars. Think of trying to wrap a piece of paper around a baseball, and not have any wrinkles.

What I did was take the tint, and cut it into 8" (or so) wide strips, and did the window a little at a time. I then overlapped the strips bout 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch as I went along. Now, the overlapping isn't necessarily required, but it helps cover all the space from side to side. If you have the pieces meet right up to each other in the middle of the window, there will be space on the sides of the window.

I didn't take the hatch off when I did mine, but I did clear out the whole back end and lay the rear seat down so I would have good space to sit/lie/etc while I did it.