question about SLP 98+ SS spoiler
09-19-2002, 09:49 PM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: LAFAYETTE, INDIANA
Posts: 1,157
question about SLP 98+ SS spoiler
just put a 98+ SLP SS spoiler on my 95 Z and my abs inop light is on and won't shut off. 
what can i do to remedy this problem, besides removing the inop bulb, i know this has been asked a few times here but i did a search and couldn't find a thing.
thanks
what can i do to remedy this problem, besides removing the inop bulb, i know this has been asked a few times here but i did a search and couldn't find a thing.
thanks
Last edited by chuckys95; 09-19-2002 at 09:51 PM.
09-20-2002, 10:58 AM
#2
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 567
Hey buddy, you will remember me, I had the red Z28 you took pictures of for your t-top conversion. I thought I remember something about a resistor being needed because the LED brake light is a little funny in how it gets power or something. If I can help in any way (since I now have a '98 SS) let me know if you need to look at something. I saw your car the other day, really looks good black. Shoot me and e-mail and we can get togheter for dinner at Hooters or something. Later bud.
09-20-2002, 07:07 PM
#3
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Denver, CO USA
Posts: 36
I know this is gonna' sound wierd, but I had the same problem on my 95 with a 99 SS spoiler. So I just wired in a small side marker light I had lying aroud in series with the 3rd brake light and mounted it in the black plastic plug in the trunk lid. Problem solved. I would be interested in learning more about a different way of doing this as mentioned by 6speedZ28. Anyone?
09-25-2002, 10:29 PM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Cols. OH
Posts: 341
I'm about to install a 99 SS spoiler on my 96 Z/28 and was aware of this "dilema". It sounds by the solutions that oneflyn95z28, and 95droptopZ used that some resistance is necessary in this circuit. What resistance is the added light or relay coil in each of your cases adding to the circuit??? Wouldn't a resistor achieve the same results ??? My wiring experience (HVAC/R)seems to run more towards the AC side of the program than DC but it's still the same general theory. I read a similar thread here MONTHS ago and can't find it either. I'm sure it has to do with the resistance the ECU is looking for in a circuit with conventional light bulbs versus the minimal current draw of the LED's in an SS spoiler. Could you guys measure the resistance the relay coil or added side marker light added to the circuit and give us a base line for resistor "testing"???? Any of you major automotive electronics type shed any light on the topic??? With the stuff I've see you guy fugure out on here, like the fan speed diagram with diodes and resistors, LED's and all, this can't be too tough for you.
09-25-2002, 11:27 PM
#8
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: Port Neches, TX
Posts: 135
I had this post saved on my harddrive. I'll cut and paste some information Ryan94ZA4 posted. If you want the html document, I will email it to you. Anyway:
I have your fix. I had a Wings West SS spoiler and now have a real SS spoiler. The problem is the pre 98's require the 3rd brake light wiring to backfeed. The SS spoilers have LED's which stands for light emitting diodes. A diode only allows current to flow in one direction. Here is what I did to fix the problem:
First I just wired the old lights back up and tucked them in the hatch. This fixed the ABS INOP light but due to the bulbs getting hot, at a long stoplight you would get a funny smell.
After a little thought, I realized a 12 volt relay is exactly what was needed. A relay dissipates its energy by generating magnetic force and pulling the contacts on it; no more heat problems. All you need to do is where you wired your 3rd brake light up to the Wings West or normal SS spoiler, add this across the 2 wires: Terminal 85 of relay (one side of the coil) goes to the black wire (or the red, doesn't really matter...) and terminal 86 of the relay goes to the Red wire. Now your ABS can read the resistance it wants and your light will shut off.
For those of you that don't understand what I just said, here is a diagram:
Relay terminal 85---------------Black wire on 3rd brake light
Relay terminal 86---------------Red wire on 3rd brake light
Leave your brake light hooked up as usual.
Hope this helps you guys out.
Ryan
------------------
1994 Z28 A4, Vortech, Flowmaster, TPIS 52 mm TB, Hooker LT's, LS1 brakes, AAM 3.42 rear, more.
and
Hopefully this will be a more simple explanation:
With your 3rd brake light hooked up here is what you do:
Where you used a connector or tape to hook the new 3rd brake light up, remove that connector and add a 1/4" female spade connector. Twist the wires and insert them in the end of the connector and crimp. do this for both the positive and negative wires to the brake light. Now, get a 12 volt relay from Radio shack, auto parts store or stereo shop and hook one of the female spades to terminal 85 on the relay and put the other female spade connector on terminal 86.
Go start your car and watch the ABS INOP light go off!!
This should take between 2 and 15 minutes depending on how fast you are.
Ryan
------------------
1994 Z28 A4, Vortech, Flowmaster, TPIS 52 mm TB, Hooker LT's, LS1 brakes, AAM 3.42 rear, more.
Might be a little hard to read, email if you want the html.
I have your fix. I had a Wings West SS spoiler and now have a real SS spoiler. The problem is the pre 98's require the 3rd brake light wiring to backfeed. The SS spoilers have LED's which stands for light emitting diodes. A diode only allows current to flow in one direction. Here is what I did to fix the problem:
First I just wired the old lights back up and tucked them in the hatch. This fixed the ABS INOP light but due to the bulbs getting hot, at a long stoplight you would get a funny smell.
After a little thought, I realized a 12 volt relay is exactly what was needed. A relay dissipates its energy by generating magnetic force and pulling the contacts on it; no more heat problems. All you need to do is where you wired your 3rd brake light up to the Wings West or normal SS spoiler, add this across the 2 wires: Terminal 85 of relay (one side of the coil) goes to the black wire (or the red, doesn't really matter...) and terminal 86 of the relay goes to the Red wire. Now your ABS can read the resistance it wants and your light will shut off.
For those of you that don't understand what I just said, here is a diagram:
Relay terminal 85---------------Black wire on 3rd brake light
Relay terminal 86---------------Red wire on 3rd brake light
Leave your brake light hooked up as usual.
Hope this helps you guys out.
Ryan
------------------
1994 Z28 A4, Vortech, Flowmaster, TPIS 52 mm TB, Hooker LT's, LS1 brakes, AAM 3.42 rear, more.
and
Hopefully this will be a more simple explanation:
With your 3rd brake light hooked up here is what you do:
Where you used a connector or tape to hook the new 3rd brake light up, remove that connector and add a 1/4" female spade connector. Twist the wires and insert them in the end of the connector and crimp. do this for both the positive and negative wires to the brake light. Now, get a 12 volt relay from Radio shack, auto parts store or stereo shop and hook one of the female spades to terminal 85 on the relay and put the other female spade connector on terminal 86.
Go start your car and watch the ABS INOP light go off!!
This should take between 2 and 15 minutes depending on how fast you are.
Ryan
------------------
1994 Z28 A4, Vortech, Flowmaster, TPIS 52 mm TB, Hooker LT's, LS1 brakes, AAM 3.42 rear, more.
Might be a little hard to read, email if you want the html.
09-26-2002, 05:32 AM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Cols. OH
Posts: 341
where do you mount this relay? basically like I mentioned above you are just adding a load, or resistance to the circuit, which is the same thing the bulb did when you used it. I'm just not sure how to figure what type/size resistor to use. I would think it wuold be easier to install and mount than a relay.
09-26-2002, 06:22 AM
#10
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Join Date: Sep 1998
Location: Auburndale, FL
Posts: 66
To figure out what resistance you need, you might put the two light bulbs in series and hook up an ohm meter to the bulbs to see what resistance they are. Then, buy the appropriate resistor--of course this does dissipate energy in the form of heat also. I plan to try the resistor first when I install my spoiler b/c it won't have the clicking noise.
09-26-2002, 11:06 AM
#11
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Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Cols. OH
Posts: 341
Chuckys95, If you have access to a multi-meter, all you need to do is check the resistance on the 2 wires of your old OEM spoiler/brakelight. Whatever the Ohm rating turns out to be is the necesary resistor to buy. It's the exact same principle used in the CAGS skip-shift eliminator. If you would PLEASE let me know what your ohm reading turns out to be and off to Radio Shack I'll go to buy one. Then you just need to solder it in one of the wires feeding the spoiler. ALL DONE
09-26-2002, 04:31 PM
#13
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Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 437
Hey, I fixed mine by using a relay from radio shack. I got the info from the same post quoted above. Run a search for ABS INOP and the post will come up somewhere, its kinda old. I was going to actually make a page for Installuniversity for the fix, but got side tracked and lost the pics and part numbers I had of the install. I will go home tonight and take some pics of the part and the install and post them tomorrow. I'll try to find my old info and make the page for installuniversity.com. Its an easy fix. NO SOLDERING NEEDED!
