Painting a T/a
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 180
Painting a T/a
I recently had my car painted by a somewhat decent body shop after having been in an accident, but yesterday some asshat hit my car and took off a good deal of paint off the bumper...
So my friend and I decided that we shall repaint the entire car and get a Ram-Air hood while going at it...
I have some experience working on cars, but am far from great. My friend has a good deal of experience painting, but not on cars...
Do you think its possible to acheive a near factory finish taking into consideration our experience and provided that we prep correctly and use all the right materials? We were thinking just sanding off the CC, not too rough sandpaper, using the right kinda primer (have to look in to the right kind) about 2-3 coats of primer, all smoothed out and sanded, taking off fenders and bumpers, painting 3 layers of paint and 2-3 layers of cc. We plan on taking about a whole week doing it and taking our sweet time... think it would come out well?
So my friend and I decided that we shall repaint the entire car and get a Ram-Air hood while going at it...
I have some experience working on cars, but am far from great. My friend has a good deal of experience painting, but not on cars...
Do you think its possible to acheive a near factory finish taking into consideration our experience and provided that we prep correctly and use all the right materials? We were thinking just sanding off the CC, not too rough sandpaper, using the right kinda primer (have to look in to the right kind) about 2-3 coats of primer, all smoothed out and sanded, taking off fenders and bumpers, painting 3 layers of paint and 2-3 layers of cc. We plan on taking about a whole week doing it and taking our sweet time... think it would come out well?
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,268
From: port huron, michigan
i'm doing a color change right now on my TA. so far its cost me 1000$ and i'm almost done. if you goto a different color you need to for good as if not way better than factory finish.
remove everything
sand
seal
prime (3 times)
block sand
prime(2 times)
wet sand
paint (3 times)
wet sand
buff, and swirlmark.
btw you need a bake booth, painting a car in the garage isnt the way to go about this. Also i used a Single stage (no clear coat) paint and its really spead things up and also kept the cost down. looks just as good.
later
remove everything
sand
seal
prime (3 times)
block sand
prime(2 times)
wet sand
paint (3 times)
wet sand
buff, and swirlmark.
btw you need a bake booth, painting a car in the garage isnt the way to go about this. Also i used a Single stage (no clear coat) paint and its really spead things up and also kept the cost down. looks just as good.
later
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 146
From: Amelia, OH
I used a Single stage (no clear coat) paint and its really spead things up and also kept the cost down. looks just as good.
later
later
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 124
From: MN
Originally posted by 1994TransAm
BC/CC is different DCC you can get cheapo paint but the PPG paint i'm using looks the exact same as with clear.
i'll show pics when i'm done
BC/CC is different DCC you can get cheapo paint but the PPG paint i'm using looks the exact same as with clear.
i'll show pics when i'm done
Also if you want to paint in the garage i recomend using a clear like Duponts HC-7600s with the hc-7607s hardener its the slowest they have because this clear hardens in minutes to the point where you could lightly touch it which means lest dust will get in the paint. I work in a small body shop and we dont have a baking booth and this is what we use and it works great and everything turns out nice. all the work we do is on 2002 or newer vehichles mainly. Also to let you know that clear is about $130 for a sprayable gallon.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 180
Well as far I know heres how the process works:
Sand with 100, then 200, then 300
Sealer (what kind)
Primer (sand how many times what grit)
Base coat (3 layers) Do you wet sand BC?
Clear Coat (4 Coats)
Wet sand w/1000
Buff (What compound)
Are metallics harder to paint?
Would 5 solid days of work suffice (including assembly/disassembly)?
Sand with 100, then 200, then 300
Sealer (what kind)
Primer (sand how many times what grit)
Base coat (3 layers) Do you wet sand BC?
Clear Coat (4 Coats)
Wet sand w/1000
Buff (What compound)
Are metallics harder to paint?
Would 5 solid days of work suffice (including assembly/disassembly)?
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 124
From: MN
Originally posted by iiiezekieliii
Well as far I know heres how the process works:
Sand with 100, then 200, then 300. on filler straighten the filler most of the way with 80 then it with 180 feather the paint with around repair area with 180 then 240 then 320.
Sealer (what kind) you dont do this until jsut before you paint.
Primer (sand how many times what grit) you spray this over the repair area. normaly 2-3 coats. sand with 320 then 400.
now you can either scuff the pannels to be painted with a grey 3m scuff pad or wet sand the pannel with between at the extreme 600 but i would probally just use 1000 but dont sand through the clear just do it so that the panel is basically well scatched or the orange peal is gone.
Base coat (3 layers) you just spray as many coats as you need to get full coverage. which can be on average 2-3 coats but yet some time depending on the color it could be more. i would spray as many coats as it takes to completly cover it then 1 more to make sure. Do you wet sand BC? you could but not nessecary
Clear Coat (4 Coats) you could do as many as you want. most shop probally use 2 -3 depending on the job
Wet sand w/1000. well 1k isnt a bad start but its not to hard to sand through with that if you dont nkow what your doing. i would say 1k the dirt out then use 1200 to remove orange peel, then just a little more than lightly go over the 1200 with 1500 and then if you want do that again with 2k.
Buff (What compound). now use something like 3M perfectit II on a foam pad
Are metallics harder to paint? yes i dont know that i would recomend a amatuer try. plus if you do try a metalic make sure you at least color the parts on the car otherwise you color from panel to pannel may be off. unless you painting a solid i recomend coloring the parts on the car and being that neither of you have much experience i strongly sudgest against any pearl or metalic use a solid.
Would 5 solid days of work suffice (including assembly/disassembly)? work you butt off and maybee .
Well as far I know heres how the process works:
Sand with 100, then 200, then 300. on filler straighten the filler most of the way with 80 then it with 180 feather the paint with around repair area with 180 then 240 then 320.
Sealer (what kind) you dont do this until jsut before you paint.
Primer (sand how many times what grit) you spray this over the repair area. normaly 2-3 coats. sand with 320 then 400.
now you can either scuff the pannels to be painted with a grey 3m scuff pad or wet sand the pannel with between at the extreme 600 but i would probally just use 1000 but dont sand through the clear just do it so that the panel is basically well scatched or the orange peal is gone.
Base coat (3 layers) you just spray as many coats as you need to get full coverage. which can be on average 2-3 coats but yet some time depending on the color it could be more. i would spray as many coats as it takes to completly cover it then 1 more to make sure. Do you wet sand BC? you could but not nessecary
Clear Coat (4 Coats) you could do as many as you want. most shop probally use 2 -3 depending on the job
Wet sand w/1000. well 1k isnt a bad start but its not to hard to sand through with that if you dont nkow what your doing. i would say 1k the dirt out then use 1200 to remove orange peel, then just a little more than lightly go over the 1200 with 1500 and then if you want do that again with 2k.
Buff (What compound). now use something like 3M perfectit II on a foam pad
Are metallics harder to paint? yes i dont know that i would recomend a amatuer try. plus if you do try a metalic make sure you at least color the parts on the car otherwise you color from panel to pannel may be off. unless you painting a solid i recomend coloring the parts on the car and being that neither of you have much experience i strongly sudgest against any pearl or metalic use a solid.
Would 5 solid days of work suffice (including assembly/disassembly)? work you butt off and maybee .
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,667
From: SLC, UT
Everything sounds pretty close here... nothing way off base...
It's costing me right around $2K for my paint job this spring. That's with my brother and I doing all the R&I, preping, and bodywork, and one of my brother's co-workers/friends actually spraying and rubbing the car. They both work for one of the LARGE bodyshop chains in Rochester.
the $2K is just for materials, and booth time. I'm using all HOC Paints. I'm not doing a total color-change, but I am adding things to the basic repaint.
I'm keeping the Flame Red Basecoat, adding Silver Pearl Essence Stripes, and a White Pearl Essence over the entire car, then topping it all with as much clear we can put on it. Both Pearl's are going to be based in clear, such that there will probably be atleast a dozen or so coats of clear on the car. I may even mix some white pearl into the base coat as well.. gotta test that and see how it looks.
It's costing me right around $2K for my paint job this spring. That's with my brother and I doing all the R&I, preping, and bodywork, and one of my brother's co-workers/friends actually spraying and rubbing the car. They both work for one of the LARGE bodyshop chains in Rochester.
the $2K is just for materials, and booth time. I'm using all HOC Paints. I'm not doing a total color-change, but I am adding things to the basic repaint.
I'm keeping the Flame Red Basecoat, adding Silver Pearl Essence Stripes, and a White Pearl Essence over the entire car, then topping it all with as much clear we can put on it. Both Pearl's are going to be based in clear, such that there will probably be atleast a dozen or so coats of clear on the car. I may even mix some white pearl into the base coat as well.. gotta test that and see how it looks.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 776
From: NYC, NY
the deal with metallics is that you have to worry about the nozzel more, you really need to paint everything at the same time, and you cannot sand the last coat of metallic base you put on or you dull the metal shards and they wont shine.
That said I have seen a couple first time paint jobs with metallics that turned out really nice
That said I have seen a couple first time paint jobs with metallics that turned out really nice
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